Use the area directly underneath the driver head light. There's already a cutout in the bumper there that works perfectly.

You don't need to eyeball it. Measure it. Measure it again. You need to measure at several different points in the cylinder with a bore gauge. If you can feel anything in the cylinder wall with your fingernail it might need more than a hone. Align hone is for crank and cam bores, not cylinder walls.

Is the bore in good shape? Measure it with a bore scope and check for scoring.

A fender roller WILL NOT work. I own an Eastwood roller and tried this exactly with no luck. I had to cut slits in the pinch weld and beat the lip in with a hammer.

Spinning a bearing certainly won't kill a block unless you throw the rod out the side of the block. The crank could also very well be usable.

I have dreams of completely v banding every joint in my intercooler setup....ahhh Right now I'm running a modified VR Speed 2.5in kit.

Looks like a really weird twin scroll t3.

I think I've got one if that would help?

Vr4 ;)

I'm running 18x8.75 +35 and I still needed a very small spacer. 2mm or so.

Weld em and body work em smooth.

Take em back off and make sure they're oriented the correct way. You spin the gasket at all, the wrong way itll leak like crazy.

It is. Maybe not when you have a simple mind.

If you keep it under 26/27psi on those injectors and run 4 bar (43.5) base fuel pressure those injectors will be fine. I'm not pulling this out of my ass. It's real world experience. Would it be nice to have a little more headroom in the injectors? Yes. Should you get rid of those if you already...

1000cc injectors can work fine. Depends on how far you want to push that 20g. Also you should add a rewire to that 255. You also should use a fuel filter with a stainless steel element. V3 lite will be fine. You will definitely need the afpr. You will also need a solution to monitor airflow that...

It's pretty much just a spark plug non fouler that pulls the o2 sensor out of the exhaust stream a bit to trick into thinking there's a cat still present.

The actuator should NOT move easily whether its installed on the flapper or not. You may have an enormous boost leak.

Check to make sure your wastegate actuator and wastegate flapper are connected. Make sure that you can not easily actuate the wastegate by hand. I'm betting you're just blowing your wastegate flapper open thus no boost.

Use one belt for all 3 items. Otherwise you'll have to create some sort of tensioner for the water pump.

I installed one on my ride, but I'm running an hx35. It made a nice difference in off boost performance though. Just feels like it fattened up the curve a bit.

Not really. It'll have no egr provision, if you already have it blocked off it won't matter.

You could also make a mout that mounts the coil off of the strut tower.

It very well could mean his alternator is pooing out. But, you're right, not necessarily. It could be a bad ground, bad ecu, 12v to ground, etc. I would reccomend metering the output of the alt directly off the lug, with and without the lights on.

I'm gonna disagree with you here. The main advantage to using the Saturn alternator is for the increased amperage output. If you're running a high powered audio system, lots of electronics or just a very high horsepower car, it would make lots of sense.I have done the Jay Racing swap on my...

I'm not pissy. It's just driving me crazy. It keeps popping up on new posts. You know you can fix it right? If this thread is really to help anyone in the future, it should be re titled. No one will be able to search it because they're looking for IAT.

For gods sake it's IAT's. Intake Air Temps.

If its a 2 bolt design it will most definitely dump right on the intercooler pipe. You have to redesign the dump pipe to dump forward of the lower intercooler pipe. I'll see if I have some pics of mine.

Measure the compressor wheel. Inducer and exducer with a set of calipers.

Don't see how it could. Pcv is for crankcase ventilation and has nothing to do with the cooling system. Head gasket or cracked head are the most likely here.

You throwing any codes?

Steel Street Beehive Valvesprings 4G63

Check out kigglys new beehive springs with lightened stainless retainers. Great deal on a great spring. You'd be good to 10k with those on most cams.

Also the type of fuel. A highly corrosive fuel would possibly necessitate the need for stainless valves. Obviously ti retainers would be for weight reduction and higher rpm.

I went as far as to put an oil pressure gauge after the restrictor so I could see the exact oil pressure at the turbo. This was after I blew up a big h1c due to under oiling. I had to spend some serious time fine tuning my restrictor to achieve the desired pressures while hot. I think I ended up...

Not necessarily true on the 255s. I have rolled the rears and pulled the fronts a little to make the 245s work.

Thanks, I tried to do several "different" things with this car.

Ask and you shall receive.

I'm actually running the 527s now and they are exactly the same specs. 18x8.75 +35.

My thought is that, while shifting the car is dropping into a completely untuned area of the ve map. Try tracking your data log while viewing your ve table and find the area your ecu is pulling from during those rich shifts and lower your ve to something similar to your idle.

I'm running 245/40/180 on 18x8 +40 lowered 2 inches with no rubbing. I did roll my rear fenders.

If you have a rear sensor that is working and just throwing a code you can use a spark plug non fouler drilled out to trick the sensor. If you have to pass a visual inspection you can weld some heat shields around the pipe near where that cat would have been. It'll look just like a cat is there...

You're going to battle knock at those boost levels.

It's a boost leak either way if the other side of the hose is still connected and not capped.

It has a lot to do with idle rpm, cam setup(large cams will pull less vacuum) I'm running hks 272s at 1000rpm idle and get -13/14

I can tell you that the 3pm exhaust is one of the big reasons you're getting creep. You need to run a ported o2 housing, enlarged wastegate flapper and hole, or an external gate to begin chipping away at this issue.

Try swapping the injector from cylinder 4 to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves with it.

I hope English is your second language.

strong!