The security dash indicator isn't related to that alarm system, but rather it's for the built-in immobilizer that came from the factory. It lighting up just means you still have that in the car.Those wires aren't OEM so likely you have an aftermarket system that yes looks like it was cut...
Usually about 20-25 minute track sessions with an instructor, no passing initially and even when allowed only in certain sections of the track, and you'll not be as fast or as in control as you might expect so err on the side of safety and listen to everything your instructor says. Drive with...
Check to make sure the orange gasket inside the connector isn't jammed up preventing it from fully seating and locking. It could be the connector is worn down as well though. ECMLink has those connectors, though you have to contact them to get them to sell one to you, if yours is worn out or...
For what it's worth I had this issue when I still had cruise control on my 99 gsx. No issue on my previous 95. I never did try the cruise control adjustment inside the box but in all my research that was the only possible option I could find. Hopefully you find an answer, it always bugged the...
AWD cars in general are not common for racing because many racing rulesets penalize AWD cars for their inherent advantage (often via lower hp limits, higher weight, or a combination). So you're adding more complexity and risk to your car for no gain in lap times, at least in the dry.These...
Not sure what fabrication labor is where you are but any shop around here would easily spend way more than $250 in labor getting that to fit in a car, so if I were you I'd go with the $400 option to get a guaranteed good fit.
Disclaimer:
Much of what I "know" comes from research but doesn't have hard data (from me, much has data from others in other cars) to prove any particular piece's efficacy. I throw stuff at my car and hope it all works, and if it does I move on, as I don't have much time for digging into the...
The preload bolts are tightened hand tight. That's it.The cover has a number of major design flaws I've found from years of ownership.
1) The preload bolts can easily work their way loose with the single non-lock nut Andrew provides, at least on my evo 8 clutch pack diff. Switch that to a...
If you do end up having to go non-OEM making one isn't terribly difficult with the trick being securing it somewhere. The OEM pumps use notched rubber gaskets to press into the holes of the stock tank, and you can make the same sized holes in any other tank and press the oem pumps in place...
The event was overall good. I'll update the UTCC thread when I actually get some pics from someone (friends are dragging their butts on them). It was time trials on a race track, not autocross. Thanks!
I can't remember the port mappings for the various year throttle bodies so I can't answer that. Figure out if P is on the turbo side of the TB and if so it could be used. I think doing this though will impact the ability to control boost, probably inducing a delay, but not really sure. The...
The connections are clearly documented in the install manual. Facing the motor the leftmost is a vacuum source post-throttle body (typically off the intake manifold) where you would use a smaller filter. The middle goes to a vacuum/boost source near the compressor output, and this uses the...
It can help, but where is your sensor located? Is it at least 2 ft. from the turbo as recommended in the manual? Also, did you fabricate a heatshield, like out of copper sheet? For me all these things ultimately helped me keep my sensor reliable and living longer (and with my car racing I tend...
You had grind the outer diameter of the hub? That's what I think I see in the last pic there. If so, no that's not at all what I was talking about and very weird that it was needed! Maybe a casting flaw from whatever non-oem manufacturer made your hubs? Weird, but good to know.
I don't think there's any way you could possible take out the radius in the hub without serious machining because you'd have to reduce it to a 90 degree angle for this to work. Someone might have an idea how but I think it's really unlikely this will be doable.As for modifying the rotors...
The rotor hat should absolutely sit flush on the hub surface. If it's not, you likely have 99 style hubs that have a small radius between the hub centering ring and the hub surface along with rotors that don't have the corresponding radius. The fix is to get the correct rotors for your hubs.
To second that, on my track car the oil pressure gauge stopped working due to sensor failure. Asked my sponsor shop about it and they mentioned it's extremely common as many aftermarket electronic oil pressure sensors are very fragile, and the engine vibrations of any car, especially a super...
Once you go black...Seriously, the black interior is 100x nicer than the grey. I owned both. The black lasted 13 years for me and looked very good up until I yanked and sold it (gutted track car) but I have always had 20% tint and took good care of it with quality leather care products which...
I am using avid racing ones in my car, racing for three years so far. 90 durometer. Working well so far. The front poly did tear but they sent me a complete set under warranty. If you get them make sure to use some loctite on the bolts holding together the rear mount as without they can work...
The problem is the smooth surface there to which you're clamping. Without a lip or something there you're really not likely to get that to hold. You could get a shop to weld a small bead on the end around that flange which should do the trick. Alternatively, if you are feeling ghetto, you can...
A little rust and noises from rotors is completely normal as long as they don't persist once you've used them a bit. The surface corrosion causes this and forms remarkably quickly but is eaten away after driving a bit with some firm braking.
I had the same OEM lower control arms from 2001 to 2014, with plenty of 135+ mph turns and never experienced separation (though they did develop enough play after shortly after the switch to R-compound tires in 2014 to justify replacement). My one anecdote doesn't mean all that much...
Do you have aftermarket gauge faces? I had the overlay for the fuel gauge ever so slightly pinch on the tail side of the needle which basically raised the gauge face material up in a bulge just enough to hinder the needle from moving. When I figured out what was wrong I just used an xacto knife...
Cutting is about the only thing I can think of but I personally have very little experience with having to forcefully remove control arms. Maybe someone else can offer a more appealing alternative. Just make sure you don't cut the subframe if at all possible.
That lower control arm has a rubber bushing there with a metal sleeve in the center that the bolt passes through. They are all (sleeve, bushing, arm) bonded normally but from your description the rubber bushing has torn. You'll need to replace the arm to get a new bushing as it's not sold...
Ignore the suggestion to look at the 1g clutch vfaq.The speed sensor is bolted in the top of the transmission through the motor mount. A wiring harness connects to the top. I would bet that the harness is simply loose or disconnected. Of course if your are sure it is connected securely to...
97-99 are supposed to have a few mm more clearance inboard which can help with wider tires at the same offset. Haven't seen it myself nor could I tell anyone how to tell the difference without a direct comparison.
You really want something like the B&M. It's just much nicer than the typical cut down shifters. Hopefully you can find a used one or a knock-off of some quality.
The Magnus Motorsports 2.3l in my time trial car has been racing for over two years now without a single hiccup. My next engine will be from Magnus for sure. You could say it was a "crate" engine as it came completely assembled and ready to drop in from them, though I had the head done...
I personally like a bit more braking in the rear than what you get with the stock bias but not a whole lot. As people pointed out these cars are very front heavy and so the front ends up doing most of your braking anyway.A cheaper way to get a bit more rear brake bias is to go to a stronger...