Make sure whoever dyno tunes know DSM's and ECMlink. The good known remote tuners will tune your car better then almost all dyno tuners out there.ECMlink is kinda a niche thing, best left to the tried and true DSMers out there.

Well you should find out if you have a black box ecu first. If you do, I'd probably go ecuflash. Save you some money for sure.

In my opinion, tuning should be one of the first things you should consider. ECMlink, or with your car being a 99, ECUflash is an option.There are tuners out there that can remote tune your car for you. After upgrading turbos and all the other supporting mods, its important to tune for the...

Some people should not be allowed to touch cars. Glad your saving it!

Steering wheel? I'm not sure either what we are talking about.

You will need a good list of parts to do the swap.If I remember correctly, youll need: 14b turbo Exhaust manifold O2 housing Oil feed/drain all necessary gaskets/ crush washers Unsure if you can reuse your coolant lines. I bet they are too small.Basically everything turbo related of a 1g...

Is it the stock 13g turbo? If so, there is no reason to rebuild it. A good 14b would be a nice little upgrade anyways.You can find a good used 14b turbo on the classifieds for cheap. Im pretty sure there was a guy selling a couple of them from earlier this month/ end of November.

I have the ETS FMIC and piping and it didnt fit well at all with the automatic. I do not recommend it. I bought the VRSF piping kit and installed it and it fit a lot better. I did have to bend the dipstick a little bit.VRSF will work fine, just need to move the dipstick a bit.

Did you install the pulleys on backwards by chance?

Just google heads by drew. I don't know if I have his business card in my wallet, ill have to check

Where do you go for your machine work?Theres a guy in aurora named drew and he only does heads. You give him all the parts and he rebuilds it for 350. I don't know if he does porting.I one of my heads done by him and it was fantastic work.

Why are you so sure it was crankwalk?

My recent purchase of a 2g auto dsm has almost made me sell my long time baby and project. They auto is so much fun to drive, constantly runs the same time. Plus stock auto trans vs stock 5 speed will hold significantly more power and abuse.Only grip I have on my auto is how slow the car...

I have personally seen more rubber caps leak and dry rot. I like to loop my coolant lines, but If you can find good rubber caps that are made for coolant theres no reason to not block off your lines.Please have coolant go to your turbo, its made to run coolant threw it.

I DD a 20g with 950cc injectors.A good tune you should have good gas mileage and no drivability issues

Then chrysler recomends it not mitsubishi. Never herd of any manual mitsu running ATF

Forced four. The shift box instructions call for one wire to the ecu for tacho

Is pin 58 where I would tap for my shiftbox for my automatic? Instructons say to tap the tacho out put from ecu but all the pinouts I see never actually say tacho output.

Its only when taking off from a start?Its because its a 6 puck clutch disc. They chatter when taking off. Its normal for performance clutches. Keep driving and breaking the clutch in. it will get a bit smoother, but it will still chatter

How did you tap into the tcu wires? Did you use special connectors?

My awd does the same exact thing. I have no idea whats wrong either. Please keep this thread updated if you figure it out.

Nikita shoot me a text I can swing by and look at dsmlink sometime. Maybe after all this snow we are about to get.

Very similare cold start issue im having as well.I have a fresh 1g TB that was just rebuilt and the FIAV still there.Im getting bad gas milage and takes a few trys to start when cold. Any tests to see if its my coolant temp sensor?

PR says there downpipe fits with stock o2 housing but I never got mine to fit.Honestly I dont see how the down pipe being 2.5 for 3 inches is a bottle neck at all. All o2 housings outlets are 2.5.The PR downpipe was a pain for me. Wrong angle at the cat back side. Tough to get bolts for o2...

I also tuned my car in gear. Had a buddy mess with the ISC til it got to 30 in the log. Also got my CombFT set in gear.My buddy/tuner was confused about the whole auto thing. He explained that when tuning a 5 speed at idle theres no load on the engine. So he thought setting everything up in...

Yeah my car has the tranny lines that dont go to the radiator. So yeah it doesnt matter what radiator you get

Sorry to thread jack but I have an ISC question as wellFor an AUTOMATIC do you set your ISC in park or in gear? The ISC position changes in both and im having a hard time getting it set.

Id be down to meet up. I just gotta get this emissions shit figured out before I start throwing e85 and some boost at her.So far I really like it. I got a forcedfour shift box and STM tranny cooler kit that I need to install. Other then that just bolts ons FMIC evo3 16g FIC 950's ect

Center consuls are the same from 5 speed to auto. Just remove the boot with a few screws and thats it.Id honestly keep your built 5 speed. I love my auto DD but I really enjoy my 5 speed Weekend car.

This kit is the easiest kit out there to install. Not sure why your having troubles.It seriously bolts right up, only modification is if you want to keep your crashbeem. Otherwise its common sense.

I read that the prothane kit has 3 of the 4 inserts that work with the auto trans. Can anyone confirm which mount that is? I believe its the rear

Is there any benifit to cutting this off? Other then fitmit issues with 6bolt swap?

Uhh you must have some crazy offset wheels. I ran 245 45 17 stock height no issues. Even now after 1.5 drop I only need to roll my fenders as it rubs on hard turns

hammer and a punch. Once you get the nut off go to pound town. Your gonna need a new bolt. You can thread the nut on it a bit so you dont F it up as bad but if its really siezed then your going to need to hit it hard.

I have a small 16g with stock injectors (have 255, AFPR, feed and return lines) And at 16 psi Im at 83% duty cycle. Im guessing im making decent power because im running damn close to my buddys 315WHP wrx.Stock injectors have suprised me.

When I asked what oil feed to run when I bought my 71hta, she said its a journal bearing turbo, and that it needs to be fed from the filter housing. Nothing was said about restrictors.I feel like that may be too much pressure, so im buying there black inline oil filter and drilling out the...

I purchased one of the only 4 made FP 71HTA with the tdo6sl2 turbine. I havnt got it installed yet.Im really excited about this turbo. I think that even the HTA68 and 20g wheels are too large for the tdo5h wheel. Dont get me wrong they are nasty turbos and make great power but I think a...

Your mistaken, the evo 3 intake has smaller ports just like the 2g. Bolts right up to a 2g head with no porting needed. It has the smaller ports and shorter runners for more air velocity.

2g manifold is going to flow better? Is that right?Have you ever seen a 2g manifold next to an evo 3? The evo 3's runners are significantly shorter.Evo 3 flows better then any of the stock 4g manifolds, and even some SMIM

Forced performance made the best T28 but as Justin said it technically isn't a t28. They just called it that.

Oh no doubt. People under estimate these t28s. I switched out my t28 with a s16g and so far the t28 takes the cake. Granted it had the 17psi actuater. It spools so fast. And beats my 16g at 14 psi

Isn't there 2 different t28 turbine wheels?Fp is the 9 blade. regular t28 is 10 and the t25 is 11 correct?

You guys jump on a vender for selling the op a 255 FP when thats what he ordered?You guys are idiots. A little search would have found that thats a 255

Yes it will out flow a 14b even at stock boost. Its a larger turbo. The gain is minimal and I doubt you will notice a difference in power. When you start turning boost up and getting into the turbos efficiency range is when you will really feel the difference between the two. But at 12 psi you...

My point is that your using logic that this guy with a 10 second car says use the EGR. When hundreds of other 10 second cars ( must mean they are equally if not smarter than said guy) dont run an egr.Your going by what ONE legible guy says, and ignoring the many others that have proven...

Okay if you want to play that game.How many of those 10 second cars have EGR's?I garantee you none of them do.

It doesnt make sense how you read ONE thread on how its bad not to have an EGR backed with no proof and you base your decision on that.When theres countless threads on how EGRs are not needed and I have actually seen a performance increase from deleting my emissions.Its pointless to start...

Sure maybe at 15 psi but theres no way in hell at 11 psi you were getting 100 IDC even at bfp of 37.

Im calling BS.I ran a 14b at 20 psi with the stock 450's and saw 96 IDC.The small 16g doesnt flow enough at 11 psi to max the injectors out. Theres no way

Conti DWS are for a more sporty all season tire. It is very well rounded most BMW's use them as their factory tire.Best all season with performance (horsepower) not in mind is a michelin