I hate to be that guy... but check crank endplay..

If you cannot use dual maps for tuning nitrous, or are already using dual maps, for say meth etc.. Spraying before the IAT can be useful, as you can use the intake temp/timing map and drop off a bunch of timing when the IAT sees crazy low temps from the nitrous. Another way to do it, is when the...

Thought I'd throw my experience in here. Car ran like ass/lean for a few years on startup with evo 8 ecu. I had to blip the pedal a few times to get it to go into closed loop(cycle the o2) Adjusting the injector latency so the car would not start full lean fixed it for me. (as posted above the...

This is super cool!Just a suggestion, I'm not sure if you have enough resources for this. But maybe have them get the car converted back to stock. Running in good order. And add the upgrades one at a time so they can see what each change does to the car, and show them what a boost leak can do...

Agreed, pull the sensor out of the exhaust and it should go full lean, or spray a cloth with brake cleaner and wrap it around the sensor, it should peg rich. If it doesn't shes pooched. Mine died and sat around 15.2. but would read correctly for the first 3-5 min of starting the car up and...

is your narrowband still hooked up?

Throw in a Hy-35 Undivided t3 9cm2 housing(faster spool), physically smaller than then HX (evo's lack the space) and guys still touch 10's on them.

Not sure if this was listed. But when you removed the balance shafts there is that balance shaft belt sprocket behind the timing sprocket... Turning that into just a spacer would free up some rotating mass.

Spark Plug wires are backwards!!! backfiring while cranking is a definite sign.

Some early ones came with the perferated (sp?) real leather seats.

On the 1g's there are wires like those that bolt on under the fuse box to the big alternator fuse. Pop the fuse box bolts and try toget your head under there...

You guys will enjoy this one:Plymouth Laser - City of Toronto Cars For Sale - Kijiji City of Toronto Canada.

I would look into the turbo. I acutally had my turbo leak on the oring on the compressor housing side, which blew compressed air right into my crankcase through the oil drain...It popped my dipstick everytime I boosted and blew out my front main seal. On my brand new motor.

Back when V2 was out I jumped on the Megasquirt band wagon, because of more flexability and options. Started with tapping into the sensors wires for logging... Then I cut the Injector wires and took over the fuel control... and from there went to full standalone, fuel and spark controll with...

+1You have no idea how many times I have changed/cut/welded my chargepipes. Its all part of modifying a car :)

bingo

NP, You are actually suppose to bring the pistons into the machine shop with you so that they can verify the piston to wall clearance when machining to get a perfect fit...

You will need normal pistons (not stroker) with a 87mm boreEXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

its called the thermostat housing.....

Each sensor will have a ground wire. Most of the time black. They travel through the loom and meet in the harness just before entering the cabin. The wire continues into the cabin and will be bolted somewhere inside your cabin. If you are getting a code for all those sensors, that shared ground...

I would have to suggest a ground aswell. Those sensors all share the same ground. They all join together just before entering the cabin on a 2g. Not sure where they actually mount to though? A 1g the sensor ground mounts to the center console metal frame... Maybe start by finding that grounding...

If you have a leak at the TB and it is enough to raise your idle to 1200, then IMO it is enough of a leak to cause rich knock under boost.

I got bets on the fuse under the hood that does the dash, console, and tail lights. The not turning over would be a seperate fuse/issue.

X2 on the out of phase balance shafts. did the car by chance recently have a timing belt job done?

just try not to slip the clutch, don't do launches. On my new motor, I threw a new flywheel with a fresh surface on with an older clutch. Ran the car at 20psi for a break in and it was fine.

The turbo DOES NOT NEED to have shaft play for it to pressureize and blow air through to your crank case.If there is no shaft play but you are still getting alot of bubbles into your crank case then 100$ says that #10 in the picture above is not sealing right. If it is out of place...

I had problems with this on my car having crazy amounts of blow by on a fresh motor and fresh rebuilt turbo and everyone gave me those answers, thats normal, blah blah, just get bigger valve cover vents, blah blah. There is a dynamic seal around the shaft, so very small amounts of air WILL past...

So much misinformation!First off: -The MAJORITY of 4g64 badged motors are 7 bolts,(there was an exception in 92 with the summits and expo's being a 6 bolt but block was badged as a 4g64) -G4CS block like mentioned above is a 6bolt!Next: BOTH of those motors come with a 100mm crank...

keep searching. bearings are the same, but get them sized by machine shop.timing belt you need one from a 2.4 dohc, to account for the 6mm taller deck height. Timing side stuff will need to be pulled from a 2.0The bore of the pistons is different aswell, make sure you get the right...

the big boys around here swear by the stock headbolts, claim they are better than the standard arp's

It's all in the resonators! Take the muffler off an Apexi N1 system and it sounds nearly the same.

OP: the knock sensor is one wire with shielding. The shielding is just pulledback and connected to ground. you will want to make sure this is hooked up.WORPeclipse- my 6bolt 2.4 had the knock sensor hole already drilled and tapped. it just wasn't used

did the wastegate arm pop off the turbo?

I pulled a 13.3 with that. on 3 different tread tires. i know 12.9 is almost half a second away from what I ran, but I don't see it being that hard with that motor he has in there.

if you want to just run a 12.9 make your car stock, with a boost controller and exhaust.

+1 on the power transistor. That unit tells your coils to fire and (on the 1g's atleast) provides the tach signal.I had mine start to go bad, and it did the jumpy tach. I limped home before it totally died on me.

sounds like it needs a boost leak test

beside drivers left foot, next to the fuse box. There will be a black rubber cap on it, hiding the pins from factory

I don`t know how many times i`ve said this on this site. BUT... Its ALL in the RESONATORS! My apexi exhaust sounds almost identical with the muffler on, or off. My muffler only quiets the `slap` sound. If I unhook the exhaust before the resonators, it sounds like a tractor.

My 4g63 lasted 4 years of summer driving and weekend track beatdowns. Probally 50+ passes. Only left me stranded once when the computer blew (aftermarket). That same motor is the motor I learned to tune on (from scratch) and the first motor I have ever worked on. It is still running with...

Is your maf plugged in? Are you getting spark on all cylinders?

Maybe that walbro 190 is overrunning your stock fpr? And it takes a bit of time for it to overrun? Has the idle afr ever went back down to 14ish after driving? That could also explain when you let it sit for an hour and come back out it will read 14.7 again. Because of the pressure bleedoff...

Got an AWD colt wagon for the winters, pretty much a dsm in van form. We are finally getting some descent snow up here. I am loving this thing. Point and press the gas, makes you go where you want. It however is auto, and no lsd in the rear. I think I will try and fix that for next winter. Try...

I find it takes a bit for the sensor to warm up or something. It will sit at 14.7ish while cold even if im dumping ungodly amounts of fuel into it.I'd say your car is just running rich. Let your car sit there and warm up for a long time without driving it, I bet once its fully warmed up...

Unplug your AC fan for now. And see if you can get a relay to last with just the rad fan. Have you tried jumping the terminals on the thermo switch yet? That should make the fan turn on aswell (with the key on acc) This may also seem like a dumb suggestion, but when I was still new, the...

Obviously not. Your profile says nothign about a fuelpump or even a rewire. 16psi out of an evo3 it obviously overdoing it.

I got one, no issues. It only comes with 1 predrilled hole for your pressure sending unit. The stock one has 2. One for the idiot light and one for pressure. Ditch the idiot light, or see what you can do for tapping another hole. If you are feeding your turbo from the OFH you will have to...

The machine shop guy told me even low mileage motors (under 100 000km) can create a taper in the cylinder walls. And it is almost always suggested to do a bore to get it straight again. But you always hear of guys just doing a quick hone and new rings.... Choice is yours but I say bore it.

RTM Racing for me up here in Canada. They are mostly in conjunction with Extreme. Great customer service!

their site seems awfully similar to slowboys.