If you don't think you can locate a turbo car in your area then your best option is going to be to turbocharge the NA car. That said, if you don't have a reasonable amount of experience as a shade tree mechanic doing a bit more than replacing spark plugs and changing oil and don't mind saving up...

Open differential probably has something to do with it. There are aftermarket units, but they're not common as they once were, and they're not cheap. Probably had a lot to do with it not gaining popularity in that area. But honestly, outside of real full on circuit racing, a well modified DSM...

You may have just made my day. I'm guessing they have it listed under OEM parts? Found it, f*** yea, at $47 I'll go that route. Thanks for coming into my thread and helping me out with this. https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22380&cat=2021&page=1I assume the hardware is...

Well damn, it's not often I learn something new about these things at this point but here it is. I had no idea, does the oil pressure relief spring need to be modified or anything or is it a 100% bolt on affair?

:ohdamn::shhh: Sorry I was thinking it would need to be more application specific, I'm seeing now it's not. Do you know what the threading size is on the OFH? I can find out, but I'd like it if someone knew for a fact and could let me know so I didn't have have try to find a tap at work that...

Maybe, tell me more? The main two parts so far as I know have to be machined though. I tend not to trust ebay stuff either... so this is concerning that, that's the only source so far as I am aware.Statements on the part like "Anodized L Steel Bracket " don't help build my confidence either...

I used to see these on extremepsi and a few other vendor sites but I can't find anyone with one for sale anymore. Anyone have a source on one? With my current setup I have to remove the waste gate dump tube to change my shorter Evo oil filter and that's really really damn annoying.

Well, I found no coolant or PS leaks, so I duno.

The 2g MAF on a 1g car, causes the mix to go lean. 550s with a 2g MAF cancel each other out and make it "okay". It's not the right way but people have been doing it for over a decade. You still should invest in a good tuning solution.

The PS pump and lines weren't leaking. Not sure what that is on the inner cooling fins. Not aware of a coolant leak but I'll look closer while there's stuff out of the way.

Seems to be one or two things missing hear... I wonder if that caused excessive wear from something coming out of alignment at high RPM? As to my knowledge when it suddenly failed was right after a tuning pull to redline. Apparently I should have used some Locktite on them down even though it...

Do all maintenance Read the 1g upgrade path that's been posted on this site for well over a decade?

Why are you trying to use anti-lag on an Evo 3 16g? It's really not needed IMO. 2 step gets me 10psi @ 5250rpm launches with the MHI Evo IIII 16g.

Do you have access to a welder? Nothing fits as well as a well done home made system. What I'm fabricating is larger than the Megan system AND fits better thus far. (3.3" O.D. / 3.0" I.D. made from aluminum) weighs less too I'm betting.

^ Eh, looks...unfinished. the mouth is to open, needs the little vertical pieces back I think.

Well, my car went from a pig to a excellent handling machine. I changed the struts to KYB AGX, springs to Eibach Pro kit, Added RM rear swaybar, and poly rear and front swaybar bushings, FD3S wheels (14lb and some change best I recall and wider than stock) w/some good tires, light weight hood...

Can we please end the pissing contest before the thread is ruined and get back on topic, all of that could have been done via PM.

Excellent, now put on your silver toung and call Forced Performance and talk them into accepting your setup as a prototype and get them to design and cast a new manifold to accept Evo X turbo's. Seriously, talk about breathing new life into these cars. If a vendor offered a nice cast manifold...

I would say just go 8.5:1 unless you want to squeeze everything you can out of the 20g (which has apparently become a generic term since there are so many flavors) then I'd consider 8.8:1 evo pistons or 9:1 forged. IMHO on a street machine that wont be doing anything insane Mahale makes a damn...

Did you ever isolate why the 7 bolts were walking? (thrust bearing failure?)

Ah, well that explains it for the most part. I'm sorry but I was about ready to bang my head on my desk trying to read your posts, but wanted to ask a question or two, trying to not be a dick. (I have to try hard these days!) :/

Will the car run on 93oct pump or E85? What size turbo is on the car now, and will it be staying for a long time?93oct smallish turbo engines don't need real high compression I would stay at or below 8.8:1 If you have E85 all over your area, you can move that up some, turbo setup makes a...

str95tsi Is English a 2nd language?

Need more information imo.What is your : E.T. Goal? MPH Goal? Power Goal? Transmission type Turbo FWD or AWD?etc. all that helps as you build the engine around the turbo on forced induction engines, not the other way around.

Huh, also interesting.. I would figure with a colder burning fuel and no more airflow than a 16g can push you wouldn't see any improvement with them. *shrug*

Interesting, I have never seen any of those used before, but they are copper NGK's sooo might be just as good or better than the norm around here. Personally I use NGK BR7ES plugs. If you are getting pre-ignition I would look for the following, hot spots in the cyl, lean fuel mixture, and an...

You should not be experiencing spark blow with a 14b. Something is off for sure as it's not like you are pushing 50+ lb/min or air though the engine. I would suspect a weak coil or bad wire, poor connection etc. That said, have you tried the non-projected electrode plugs? NGK BR7ES. BPR7ES The...

Get's my vote.

I honestly can't recall the name of the vendor I got my hood from...Damn, now that makes me want to go digging though my folder of invoices for the car, which I hate cause then I start looking at how much $ I have spent over the years LOL.

I was wondering who's hood he was looking at.

YesAll I have done to my car's suspension is the following. (this was YEARS ago though so things are a bit fuzzy)* Replaced worn bushings. * Replaced rear sway bar with 24mm RM unit (maybe it was 25mm?) * Swapped OEM wheels for FD3S wheels. (16x8 best I recall) less weight and wider. * KYB...

I would think maximum pressure would depend on your setup. Obviously some turbocharges would lower this threashold. Where are you takingh a reading of the oil pressure?

Be advised they can be finicky. (Ask me how I know)Upgraded MAF or speed density is the way to go imo.

I think the others are asking about the logger to see what your TBS (Throttle body sensor) is reading at idle with no pressure on the pedal.

If boost pressure was still rising and fuel pressure was not, either you have a problem with your FPR or the pump isn't keeping up with demand. Check the voltage at the pump, but also look for restrictions in the feed line.BTW, are you leaning out when this happens? I would expect you to...

You said you had a CEL that was caused from the barometric sensor, that's where I would bet money if I had any lol. Seriously several people have replaced a bad MAF with another bad MAF. They are quite old now. Verify it is working correctly first, if it's not then upgrade it rather than just...

Don't rule out anything with out verifying it is functioning correctly.

Not sure on the exact numbers, but I can tell you I have had a Mac die on me. When I replaced it I had the same issue, why because it was also a bad unit. Which could be the issue. Are you absolutely positive it is a good unit?

I would want to know who rebuilt them, if they aren't rebalanced they will have a shorter life span than normal. How short, depends on how far out of balance they are and how hard you push them. Could be 1 week, could be 5 years. But I am a fan of MHI when it comes to journal bearing turbos. I...

Do what you will, most do anyway, but personally I would replace it and use gaskets if they are available, if not a thin bead of RTV. But then I don't take the top cover off to show off cam gears either. I would rather keep dirt and crap from getting in and behind my T-belt cover. Most will tell...

This, and you're budget will decide on what parts you should use. Also clearly defining your goals and budget will save you a lot of time and money. Trust me I could have saved at least 1/3 the money I have spent on my car over the years if I had done a better job of this.You mention...

I am going to go ahead and admit I didn't read anything but the OP first post. But it's not something small, whatever it is, is drawing a LOT of power to kill a full sized automotive battery over night. I have ran car radio's and 1-2 speakers off a single car battery for months and months before...

I didn't realize that car was FWD. So I supose it depends on your goals and drive train type. I get so used to thinking about AWD that I forget that half or so DSM's are FWD lol.:coy:

Seems like a horrible place to mount the battery in reference to performance.

Which Aeromotive unit did you have?

The last part of that sentence confuses me, are you saying that some others do when the fuel system is off but Aeromotive does not? If so please source this information and list any that are believed to hold the pressure when the system is off.

Oh well crap, now I feel retarded, I was looking for them on google LOL. I guess google doesn't know it all eh?

Resurrecting this bi***.Ok so what if I WANT it in .pdf so I can put it on my Kindle? (searched but can't find it in .pdf)

Sorry, but why are you trying to get more power out of a 4G37? Perhaps if people know why your doing this, they would be more willing to help you out. That said there is a growing amount of people who dislike spoon feeding. It helps to do SOME research on your own. Generally when people see you...

9!'clipseDOHC, did you ever figure out what the stock fans amp draw is on the 1g?