Not sure. The way I have checked in the past is draw a line over the rubber to see if the inner and outer part of the damper is sliding. Think timing marks, if they don't line up after running, then the rubber is slipping
Is it possible that you can start with completely removing that alarm?Then return all effected circuits back to original configuration. You'd have a good chance of not having issues in the future...just sayin.Otherwise its makes things such a pain as you know.Have you seen this yet? It's...
I just took pics straight out of my 97' mitsu service manual. I tried to upload them, but "too big for the server" error and I'm too annoyed to figure a quick techie fix. PM me your email and I'll send them if you want.
Anything after Dex2 is going to be backwards compatible. SO, find some Mobil1 DexVI or whatever the latest is and follow the filling procedure. I however, prefer what the manual states. I will pay to play.And in 20years you could use dex40 in your dex2 required ps fluid system.Yay.
You want diameter, not length.
Everyone knows that.If you don't know that, its not worth the time and money. Some things won't make a difference unless they are actually calculated as such.
I know this is a popular gm thing to do "headlight all on mod" but just an FYI high, low and fogs are designed the way they are for good reason, your safety. High beam illumination corresponds with higher vehicle speeds and average reaction time. Meaning where you're focusing should not be 10...
I usually go with if an outside force is going to act upon a manual transmission equipped vehicle, put in the correct directional gear. If you park on a hill, nose downhill, set in forward gear. So if car somehow moves, the engine is going to be moving in the correct direction. Otherwise, such...
No, there are specific materials/alloys/mixes for specific applications. It's not just a bolt. Otherwise auto manufacturers wouldn't spend research money on exhaust bolts etc. For most common jobs sure, if the bolt fits it'll work. But there are some pretty demanding tasks for our mani to...
Always retorque.However, just before you do, make a mark down stud and down side of nut. On a cold engine, and with the torque sequence in mind, loosen a nut one turn or less, and torque it to the final spec. Don't need to go in steps or overcomplicate anything. Just one at a time loosen and...
13V was the donor car charging the heavily discharged battery, and just a side note, alternators don't like to charge dead batteries, only maintain.The alternator is not outputting/charging OR the fuse is blown. Take the MM negative lead and ground to the battery -. Then take the positive...
Damn whatd you do? Can't just say long story short, that don't apply and it ain't gonna fly, wanna know why, why you grave diggered your ride, evidently so sky highI don't have abs but I do know, that just barely above the fender liner is the harness that runs ALL your front end lighting...
Without current flow, battery voltage won't change. Add a load and voltage drops. This is where Optima shines -lower internal resistance. Less voltage drop when loaded. When load is removed, voltage creeps back up as battery cools.Fundamentally, it's simple ohms law.
Excuse me for saying this but all the drawn out sentences, words and punctuation you just whipped together all seem to sum up to two things, that batteries gain voltage in an absolute shelf mode, and they are a mysterious, chemical based energy storing device that the average Joe hasn't a clue...
If the car was shut off and once you began listening to the music, the voltage was 11.8, there is an alternator problem. The batt should stay 12.6+ for a few days after car is off. And the voltage rising I figure is from when you were driving bumping the snoopthe50centthriftshop tunes with the...
Funny, someone sold you that saying 'you'll need shorter bolts' and the picture clearly shows they learned the hard way. I wonder how long they ran it like that, maybe they learned the REALLY hard way and broke something..
Have you opened up your ECU to check for any obvious board damage? I'm assuming nothing would be wrong since it's been ECMlinkd' but I guess you never know.
Why in the world did you do that. The fuel pump relay pins 3&4 (black/white wires) have power with key on, ECU can be missing from the car and you'll have power. The relay turns on when the ECU gives the relay a ground (pin2 white/red wire) when the CORRECT CONDITIONS are met. The pump only runs...
I have no idea what you mean here and I have no idea if your engine indicator bulb is lighting up on the dash with the key 'ON' so I can't help you thus far.Pardon my casual impression but, I suck at overcomplicating electrical issues and sounding like a wizard with a quick diagnosis. Really...
If your test results are performed correctly then the problem is that the computer is not allowing the fuel pump relay to turn on. Whether that is a computer internal issue, output issue or the computers' input signals (cam/crank signal)Does the check engine indicator light when you turn the...
My guess is good as yours, there's a lot of ways to leak in that area. However I would find a pressure washer and hose it down good. That will help big time in identifying.
Yes, leaking WP, but not a pump that is rusted/eroded away. My post was more of an overall of the cooling system. Your issues were a bit scattered so I did what I could :)
When coolant heats up it expands. Rad cap pops and lets some out. Instead of on the ground, it goes out an overflow hose (near the rad cap) and into a recovery tank (the white bottle). When the engine is shut off, the coolant cools off and retracts. The radiator cap has a little valve in the...
Manifold studs:
6 Bolt Head uses 9 8MM Studs.
7 Bolt Head (both 1G/2G) uses 7 8MM Studs and 2 10mm studs.I'd just match the manifold to the head and polish to keep turbulence down.
I wish your car was a 99 so I could say, 99 problems but a bi*** aint one!For recalls, look up your car here
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues
Damn well you're pretty well covered! No definitively not at 70. Just when idling. That's when the ding dongs with huge IC's, no ducting and no heatshield (mainly manifold) go 'why am I overheating around town'? No IC to condenser ducting causes engine bay to recir the hot manifold air instead...
If you sell it, at least put a reliable OEM T-25 or 14B on there so you don't totally screw the next guy. You can find them in the classifieds for under a bill.Just sayin.
You seem pretty meticulous, which is cool pun intended. I don't see a problem either, but I would still go further on the maintenance and do a few more things.-Flush the system:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/radiator-coolant-flush.445273/#post-153073205
-Test for electrolysis...
You're getting waaaay ahead of yourself IMO. You said it overheats in town. And the fan didn't work. Okay that's the problem, you even said you fixed it.As for the cooling system pressure test. If pressure is falling it means either your tester is a POS and leaks somewhere, so spray it all...
Well you should check it.There is always the possibility of the wheel contacting the comp. cover and exploding sending shit into the engine. But shh I know know about that :D.
The wastegate works off of boost. BOV off of engine (post throttle body) vacuum.And technically, the wastegate isn't designed to see vacuum, as far as I know. But I've gotten away with it for a few months.
No prob. I can't be certain but as long as you weren't boosting you should be fine. Best way to tell is take the intake boot off turbo and pull the compressor wheel shaft in/out. There should be no movement in/out and a tad bit side/side. Look for rubbing of blades obvious stuff etc
Use this type of extractor. Its square. You just pick one that fits best, tap it in with a hammer and turn it out. Try tapping lightly first though since its a soft pipe fitting.
I wouldn't try the common type extractor (see: spiral extractor) because if for some reason you bust it off in...
Just curious, when you say it didn't want to restart after adding coolant. When you went to hit the key, did the engine seem to 'lockup' I.E.; either barely budged or spin over maybe once then stop? Or did it turn over like normal (or a bit faster) just didn't start? At first I thought IC piping...
That is the member, "TWOpointFORliter" bumper. He bought a bumper on eBay and paid his friend to fill in the foglights. As far as I know they are not available aftermarket (fog lights deleted), so you'd have do the work.Stock bumpers are everywhere online though.If you're interested in the...
Nice one Jim, I was about to post that pot mod too. Just to get by, you could do that OP.Another way is get the Kiggly crank sensor, so you don't necessarily need link. Just another option.And you might actually have a bad injector, try moving number 3 to a different spot. Ive never had a...
Check this out in case you don't already know:
http://www.teamrip.com/when_why_and_how_to_shim_pivot_ball_info.htmlBunch of stuff here
http://www.teamrip.com/faq.htm