I did not.I used a block tester that checks the coolant for combustion gas, so the block wasn't cracked/leaking. I also suspect that the oem headgasket was fine (never took the head off). Could have had cylinder to cylinder leakage.I never got around to a leak down (I don't think I did)...

I had the 20g on a 2.0, I was told it should be similar if not slightly less powerful than the FP green. So I got the HTA red on a 2.0, but now its on a 2.3. With the 2.0, you have and the head work, you should be able to bump your rev limit back. I imagine you would still have 1k+ of usable...

Anyone happen to have one laying around and can measure the holes?I am thinking about using studs to make removal/install easier, and the holes are much bigger than 6mm bolts, barely smaller than the head. I found these which should to quite well. Just wanted to be sure they would fit...

My cold starts always take a little longer. Usually it is noticeably but slightly longer in below 50* in the morning. Then it gets pretty bad on 30* or lower days. Once it fires, its fine. And warm starts don't care about temperature. You may have an issue elsewhere or in the tune if you...

Update... Took a risk based on the frequent advice that appearantly "only a track car" needs the oil heat exchanger. By the time my engine is warm oil temps begin to budge off of the minimum (forget what that is, around 100 degrees?) By the time I drive 5 minutes, I am close to 150+ degrees F...

Update on my lines... Teflon coolant lines work just fine, I could even swap them out when I went from a 20g to FP red. (I think they had at least a year or 2 of daily driving on them ZERO leaks.Then just a month ago, I swapped engines, and took the lines off, put the lines back on, and...

I recently did this job for the first time. And setting tension was a major voodoo magic PITA. After about 30+ attempts, I was finally happy. Most of those attempts failed the gap spec immediately, or before the 6 rotations was over. A few made it after the 6 rotations, but not after 15...

I deleted it. Now I am going to look into a sandwich adapter or just go 1990 ofh. Haven't decided yet. On the up side, my hogged out ofh has 30psi on the first stable idle cold start of the rebuilt engine.If oil pressure stays in line, I will probably opt for the sandwich adapter route.

I haven't spent much time looking into the aftermarket sandwich route. But from what I gather, there needs to be some sort of bypass, and by the time you add all that up, it exceeds the cost of a new 90 OFH. Any leads on a good one so I can compare price options?Ill try cleaning it out. If...

I am replacing an engine and need some advice on what to do about the OEM oil cooler sandwich plate thing. I would love to delete it (cut off thread portion of the ofh/oil filter bolt) and be done with it. (90's style housing, no cooling).My engine threw a rod, and there were metal chunks of...

When I pulled the intake manifold, I noticed these plugs and the fat port attached. Any reason not to use a 3/6 bspt to -4an adapter here for say a BOV, then use the other side for the MAP?I read somewhere that the PCV intake port is a bad idea because it is attached by little holes to each...

I pulled it from up top. Had a helper. Was not bad at all. Got free of all the motor mounts, removed the trans bracket for easy clearance. then it was up a few inches at a time, re-level, more inches, careful of the PS and AC, then a few more inches and re-level, it was out. I had...

Ill pay shipping and return HF one later. Probably not worth the hassle though.

Could I get away with using the transmission bolts? Or are they too long?I am bolting it on the trans side anyway right (noob I know)?

Going to Harbor freight. Gonna get the 2 ton lift for $180 (on sale from 300). Has 1 foot more lift than the 1 ton (or is that a waste if the 1 ton is $140?). Plus the leveler. Should keep life pretty easy.Pulling the AC comp off was easier than I initially though. Looked like one bolt...

1gb AWD. Has power steering and AC.I was thinking: Pull engine and trans together. unbolt the AC compressor. Unbolt the PS pump. Leave lines attached. pull engine.ORRemove/drain AC/PS lines, pick out engine/trans with all accessories attached.Anyone have a preference? It looks like...

Shortblock is not good for a core, head will likely need a rebuild. I removed everything in the engine bay, getting ready to pull the trans out the bottom, then the engine out the top. Unless it is easier to pull them both at the same time and separate them later... opinions?I am using this...

Piston snapped in half. From the few rotations it made while driving before I shut it down, managed to take out the girdle, some front wall, and some rear wall.

It broke while cruising/decelerating. 60-70mph on the freeway during my morning commute to work. Wasn't driving hard at all that morning. Must have given up its last straw?Here's the relevant info. I was under the impression that this combination was on the light side of risky.-Original...

Reputable shop: check Climate/heated/cooled garage until about the end of last winter. So couple of months in a shed.

And here is the damage

DD. I'm gonna need a dd for now so it might turn into a weekend car once I find a dd soon.The big question was more so "does it matter that an engine has been sitting wrapped up for 12 years?"

Oh yeah, there's a hole somewhere. Hopefully it's in the oil pan... Getting ready to dive in.

Any thoughts on buying a 12 year old BRAND NEW 2.3L 6-bolt long block? There's one for sale. Has reciepts, still in shipping box, from Class One inc in IL....

Original motor ~60k miles Don't recall ATM. I only track my weekly miles and never look at the odo.I drive my cars. Floor it whenever I want to. Drive like a granny when I want the tank to last for a week. Sees 20+psi regularly on a FP red HTA/E85. At least a few times a week I am sure...

Oh I have savings... it looks like a beater DD and an engine rebuild are on order instead of the fancy tig welder I wanted :( . I'll find out more tomorrow.I had a feeling this engine was on its way out. Never got around to the checkup I should have done (leakdown/compression). But I had a...

I'm gonna wait till tomorrow evening to dig in. I had this gut feeling that something pierced the oil pan up where I could not see it.I am guessing there is not even a slim chance I can just pop a new bearing in, bolt the rod cap back on and be on my merry way lol.

FOUND IT.While setting up each cylinder for a leak down, cylinder 4 (furthest from timing stuff did not budge when I shoved a chopstick in it. pressed down on the chopstick, and I could feel the piston move down. Will not come back up.So something with the rod... What are the odds that...

Good point. That's next. After I verify engine health, I think i'll start dissecting all the lines one by one.I am skeptical of such a hole though, but i guess it is possible, maybe I ran over some debris in the road and is put a little hole in a line. The feed line is FP braided hose with...

If I can rotate the crank by hand, am I safe to try starting? Or at least do a compression test?I also have a 100psi leakdown tester, never used it yet... might be a good time?

NBO2 sensor in the OEM location... Enough to rule out checking the hotside?Remember the engine was shut off almost immediately after this happened.

Here's the best pictures I could get of the timing side of things...1) When the cams are lined up, the timing mark on my Fluidampr seems to be off by a little bit 2) When the fliudampr is lined up perfect, the cam marks seem off.I assume perfect is by looking through the headlamp...

I have the easy timing cover off (the tippy top one that people replace with clear versions). Does the harder top half come off relatively easy? without removing pulleys (I am fine with removing accessory/serpentine belts...)Turbo cold side checks out no oil pushed into the compressor area...

Is there an easy way to check that? ie NOT pulling the timing cover?I was just able to crank through 30 rotations, no cramping/stuck points.Turbo intake pipe is clean (little oil residue because I recirc my catch can...

Seems to get stuck every now and then rotating it by hand. then if I go reverse (CCW) just a little for a few degrees, then I can resume going forward. Makes little clacking sounds like shifting through the gears with the car off around the time it gets stuck in rotation. Seems to get stuck...

I was cruising to work at around 70 mph, normal temp, normal oil pressure (I usually keep an eye on these things while driving).Then a "pop" sounded like something dropped in/out of the engine bay, then a rush of white smoke from out of the hood smelled like a combination of burnt rubber...

Always stick to one mod at a time. I was chasing a strange sound even after filing it better than flush after a ton of removing the pulley, removing/replacing belts, test driving... turns out it was excess engine noise caused by an avid timing side motor mount.

Torquing it down against a plastic timing cover lip couldn't have done any damage correct? I spun it using a 1/2" ratchet to turn the crank so that I could install the belts and check to make sure everything rotated, and double check torque on each of the 4 bolts. And after that appeared to be...

All I replaced was the damper/pulley. To be fair... Had I read the instructions in the package: "pre-1995 models: Before installation check timing cover clearance. Trim plastic cover lip if necessary". Shame on me.Apparently I didn't trim enough off. The first time I started it up, it...

"That damn pulley" was in reference to Fluidampr part number 630701. It is making sounds still after some trimming of the timing cover lip. Looks like the timing belt cover will need some more grinding. So far I have read Fluidampr can bolt on to 2g or the black timing covers.I wonder if I...

That damn pulley. Should have read the warnings... It rubbed the timing cover and made a nasty clack/knocking sound. Filed the lip down, and the sound went away.I think I might not have filed enough down because once I put the belts back on, and tightened them down the noise came back...

Yup. I took the belts back off again. That thing is toast. I was able to separate the outside from the inside with a few hard tugs by hand.Fluidamper here I come!

I am pretty sure I got the really high pitch chirping signs of a bad harmonic balancer.Is this too much play? all belts are offSee video:

The fittings that fp gives absolutely suck for clearance. Especially with using their filter... I'll try to stay on #2 or go to #4.And just for reference, #5 is the oem oil pressure gauge and #1 is the low pressure switch/warning/idiot light?

I am running the fp inline filter restrictor

Attached is a pic for the oil filter housing. What ports are allowed to be used for oil feed? I am currently using port #2 in the pic, but would like to move it to port #4 the down facing one next to the oil pressure sender.It would create a lot of much desired clearance in that area...

x1000 on the shitty knockoff BOV and the even shittier flange. That thing warps if you look at it funny. I use a thick rubber gasket material, and can only tighten it once per gasket/flange flattening. Other that that, and shitty t bolt clamps, great kit. I guess. The only real parts you...

Make sure it is actually oil before you start worrying. It could, for example, be redline water wetter that has been in the coolant too long and finally broke down, or an incompatible combo/mix of coolant types can also leave brown oily looking deposits. It is well documented if you google...

You have the radiator and the fans right? Should be easy to figure out. If anything, a tape measure should give you some reasonable confidence. Here's a link to a similar dilemma (found via a google search) which would give insight.http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153953

A search would yield the result you are looking for. It has been done before. (with an oil pressure gauge instead)