If you choose to make your own injector cleaner see below.

I would get under the car and check the rocker panels/rear wheel wells for rust to make sure it’s not too far gone, definitely if it’s a midwestern car.

You sir are an astute observationalist

English man... we speak American in the US

Yes thats exactly what I'm talking about, the rare ascetically pleasing trim. :)

I'm currently looking for the trim but if anyone is in the area I found a talon with the rear quarter trim.https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/24804657

Turns out the vin rivits pop out easily and can be reused

Small update:Got the harnesses swapped over, now to just swap the Vin plates and i can start putting the dashes back in.

Update:This time around i labeled all the bags and bolts with respect to the trim and locations. Additionally i labeled the connectors and wires with blue painters tape, figure it would be easier navigating when i put it back together.Got the talon dash out today, almost stopped bc it was...

I'll update tomorrow had a busy day today didn't get to work on the car, ill take more pics as well

Alright, my neighbor is a sheetmetal worker and I'm sure he has a rivet gun! As for the harnesses, yeah I'm just going to swap them.

Yeah I'm still trying to figure how I'm gonna do the Vin's ?? But I'm trying to get a 100% answer on the harnesses if I can leave it in there?

Hello all, I'm in the process of swapping a dash from a auto 99' gs into a manual 97' TSI. So I just pulled the dash out of the 99' and I'm wondering if the harness attached to it from the pictures are universal throughout models? Or do I have to swap it with the 97' harness? Thanks.

Yeah that's what I was gonna do, figured I would post anyhow.

I'm wondering if anyone knows where to find dust shields for an evo brembo swap? I read 4 threads and came up with these part numbers: MR569183 & MR569184 EVO Brake Shields and that the rears will need some fab'd ones. Although when I do a search it appears they're discontinued. Any help would...

Hello not to sure where to post this since i don't wanna make a build thread for this car since its going to be a parts car, but i figured i share this anyways!So today i picked up a 99 gs anniversary edition for $450!! With all black interior other than the door trims being painted silver...

So it turns out the excess heat transfer was due to a bent wheel hub from when the lca and axle incident happend. Had to get car realigned tires balanced and new hub

Thank you very much for a timely response. Ill get a IR thermometer and get temps

Sorry about moving so much I was trying to isolate the noise

Turn the volume up, it's easy to hear trust me. Car runs and drives fine. and I jerked the wheel hard and there is a clunky noise only on pass side.

So a little history, all referring to passenger front tire, axle, lower control arm (lca) etc. last month I was driving and the lca ball joint snapped off and took the axle with it. So I replaced the axle and lca completely and everything was sound. Well last week I changed the tires and rims...

Thanks Pauly, yes I already did that and I did gain a few extra mm's but still not enogh. One cap already fell off.

Oh wow I do like that way that looks, although I like the center caps as well

You really didn't answer my question though, can a spacer fix it? Would there be any negative effects?

It is noticeable, plus I didn't completely tighten that side bc I didn't want it to tear up the cap. Should I just take a sander to it?

So my passenger axle is a autozone one and the axle hits the center cap and protrudes out slightly, can I fix this with a rim spacer?The first pick is what I'm talking about, the second is for comparison.

I'm going to jack it up after work I'm just on my lunch break and figure I would post it now.

So I just washed the car the other day and I noticed what appears to be oil or brake fluid all over the passenger wheel after I drove the car a few hours last night, any thoughts on what this could be? I could only post 1/2 the pic due to file size

Update, so my obd2 wasn't working properly a short somewhere. But I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the car started right up for about 2 seconds. Put the fuse back in and it runs fine, did a 34psi pull today, little breakup though. I guess the engine was just too flooded.

Ordered Kiwi 2 scanner today, will update what codes it throws by the end of the week

2g crank and cam sensors.

Yes I checked each plug. I will check the temp sensor, and CEL but it may be pulled haven't checked

So about 3 weeks ago I finally put a new battery in and car started up, drove it to shell put some injector cleaner in and filled her up, then drove home. Car didn't start next morning. Ordered Oem coil and transistor, 10mm wires and new bpr8es plugs. Installed it all last night and car still...

It is going to be a used tire though

So my rear passenger tire just blew on me and I was wondering if I can just get one tire or do I have to replace all four bc of the differentials

Using aem v2, will perform boost leak test today after work

Just replaced my old brown IAC with a new black one and the car is still idleing inconsistently, any ideas? I was thinking adjusting the biss screw a bit bc the car idles from 1000-1100

So last week I completely cleaned the pos bat terminal and here were are again caked corrosion all over it, any idea why?

What would the correct way be then, other than replacing the lines completely? I was only aware of this way?

I know this, it even says on the box not to use them on brake system. Although I have found threads on this site where people have done it with no problems, also have friends that have done it and have not experienced issues in the years they have been on. I didn't wanna do it this way either...

Forgot to update, 180 grit worked like a charm only took me like 2 mins per line to sand down where I was able to slide the fitting on thanks Marchev. So far the rear brakes are holding up with no leaks!

Okay so whats the best way to sand i down? and what grit did u use?

I tried it, it does not fit. I think its metric?

But what size fitting do i need? What size is the brake line? Thanks!

Why is it such a bad idea i have seen it done on other cars, and on other DSM's? I was just wondering the size of the brake line bc this is my DD and i have no other choice right now it will have to do for a temp fix, too many other problems to wait for new lines.This is what i'm talking about...

Its a temp fix, and i have seen it done on other cars and other DSM's why is it such a bad idea?This is what im talking about.Already read this thread thanks man! http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/need-help-fast-cut-brake-lines.476659/#post-153409038

So both of my rear brake line have rusted through, so i had cut out the rusted part of the brake lines and are in the process of putting on compression fittings to repair the broken lines. My problem is after i used the pipe cutter to get my clean cut, the 3/16" compression fitting is too small...

But wouldn't I be feeding the turbo cooled, filtered oil from the B&M oil cooler, so why not do away with the stock turbo water lines?

Yea I already have the EVO OFH, well in that case if I did loop the lines from the stock oil cooler together and cap off the oil cooler nipples, I still need to keep the turbo water lines connected right ?