So I heard back from the manufacturer. They responded well under 24 hours to my warranty request email and immediately offered to replace the two inserts that were broken in the same color. They also offered to replace all four insert sets across all of the mounts at no additional charge and I...

As an update... all warranty information, paperwork, receipts, pictures have been submitted. It is in the hands of the manufacturers at this point. I am confident that this will have a positive resolution but until then, I will just keep everyone up to date on this no questions asked, lifetime...

If I recall correctly, there is a metal sleeve that the bolt goes in. There is no direct contact between the mounts and the bolt.As far as the manufacturer goes, I got a reply and they are asking for pictures of each mount and the warranty form. I need to get the pictures tonight so I can...

Just to clarify.. These are polyurethane. Without thinking, when I originally made this thread, labeled the inserts incorrectly. My apologies.And for the purpose of the thread I am just keeping the discussion more aimed at the issue and not at any manufacturer. I am working at a resolution...

No they are good mounts from a reputable place. They aren't cheap mounts either. I just happened to snag them on a group buy for Black Friday in the past.But I'm just concerned because I think 2 of the 4 mounts that I have are having cracking/crumbling issues with the polyurethane. I haven't...

So as to an update....I have been busy and have not had the time to follow up on this issue until now. I reached out to the manufacturer of the mounts and they are requesting that I fill out the warranty claim and send pictures of the problems. I plan on sending the pictures and form out...

Start reading! start [ECMTuning - wiki]Videos: ECMTuning, Inc.You can also post logs in the Tuning and Engine Management section of the site for more help with your tune.

What tires and rims are you running on at 60PSI?

He has ECMLink V3 Lite... Which is much better than a SAFC (IMO).... Just saying. It is the last sentence of the OP's Post.However, you both have valid points. E-85 is not supposed to be used in the stock fuel system of the DSM. But if you replaced certian fuel components, you will be able to...

If you have the option.. just try to swap the relay/fuse from another working car and see if that remedies the problem.

Correct... there is a mod I believe you can do to get them to blink. Stock they do not.

If he turns on the Hazards and they are working in the back, then my assumption would be that it is already plugged in... But it never hurts to make sure the connector isn't loose :thumb:

I guess you could. I have no experience with this as I just drive my car easy to keep out of the boost. I personally wouldn't do this long term as again I have no idea how this would effect the car or if it would improve gas economy. Someone else would have to chome in as to why or why not this...

Okay sweet! :thumb:And yes.. something always seems to have an issue some place or another haha.

You could try to drill it out... Or if you have a small enough punch, you could try to get it out that way. I would drill as a last resort but that is my opinion.

First, welcome to DSMTuners.Second, the actuator arm, The one with the hole at the end, goes over the flapper rod, connector, etc? (Put the piece sticking out through the hole :D). Then behind the actuator arm on the flapper, you would put a pin there to keep the actuator arm from falling off.

I tend to say that I like to get things done as cheaply as the right way allows.... even if it isn't cheap at all.

Just to point this out... In Fairbanks (further north than Wasilla), we do not use road salt at all. They just lay down crushed gravel on the roads for traction. I would imagine from my time in Anchorage that the result is the same in Wasilla. The only difference would be getting closer to the...

@ 007jimmy - The front and rear are solid. Same as the one pictured as they are a set.@ spool4fun - Yea! That is why I contacted the manufacturer. I knew they had a lifetime warranty. They have been a fantastic product and I am still very happy with them, But this also has me concerned. They...

They are also polyurethane mounts. The front mount from visual inspection looks fine. The rear mount is currently difficult to see while at work.

***CLARIFICATION***Accidentally labeled as Prothane when in fact, the inserts are simply polyurethane material.*******************I looked under the hook of my car today to check a coolant leak i notice on my quick lunch run from work. I looked under my hood today to find the following...

FYI for those have a 1G, If you do not have the 2G MAF and intake pipe, this cannot be done appropriately as it will melt... I know. :ohdamn:

Is your BOV currently recirculated after the installation of the Blitz Bov?If it is not, You must have it recirculated unless you have your MAS AFTER the BOV.By meaning of recirculated, the outlet of the BOV had a hose that connected it back to the intake. This hose must be on the BOV.

Although I have an AEM gauge, I recently had a similar issue only mine was stuck on one number only. the cable on the back of my gauge came unplugged. I plugged it back it and it was fine. It is a quick and easy check just in case....**edit** I need to have my dang eyes checked. I even read...

You could have just continued this conversation in your other thread... but I'll be nice.First, just so you are aware, A LOT of your questions, if not all, have been already asked and answered here on DSMTuners. I suggest that you try to use the search feature in the forum. There truly a lot...

Don't you mean SMIC? @ miguelmcvShould have refreshed :ohdamn:

Just went out to look at it. It had just come unplugged from the back of the gauge. Just got it plugged back in and there are no more problems.

Ever find the solution to this issue. I am having the same issue. I just haven't gone back out to check to see if it came unplugged. Will be doing this soon too.

As far as I understand it, there should be no "prime" in the stock wired system. The fuel pump I believe only comes active when the car is set to the "Start" position. So even with a rewire, the electronic control shouldn't initiate the fuel pump until you actually try to start the car.

HOLY BATMAN!!! A RESOLUTION TO A THREAD!!Haha, had to get it out. I am super happy to hear that you were able to get your issue resolved! How were you able to identify that the turbo was the culprit in your situation?

The Simpsons call it a thingamajigger.. that way you can use the thingamajigger to get the thingamajigger installed on the thingamajigger. :D

hmmmm... Very interesting... I am not a Mac wizard. I was just trying to help where I could. Sorry... :(

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/425790-ecmlink-v3-mac-osx.htmlUninstalled the one that he had on his computer and installed the version provided on the ECMLink website. Maybe try installing an older version like the OP had?Same as this issue...

Which VERSION of Mac OSX?(Apple > About this Mac)

ECU Code CheckingYou can also use a 12v LED I believe or an ANALOG multimeter. The digital multimeters are difficult to get accurate readings from because the voltages change so quickly.Also you should probably adjust your CAS if it looks fully rotated in one direction. You will want to...

ECMtuning has a lot of information available in case you haven't looked at it previously.ECMTuning, Inc. start [ECMTuning - wiki]The videos provide a lot of great information as well as the information in the Wiki may be more aimed at the ECU in general, but does have some information about...

If you are running the 450cc injectors at 24PSI, I would advise you NOT to continue to drive the car the stock 450cc injectors just cannot flow enough fuel to keep up with that level of boost. With an upgraded turbo, the highest you should see is maybe 14 before you should hit fuel cut (If you...

Although PieEyedPiper has a point, I know that the overall quality of the parts store PCV are not the same the one ones that the dealership sells. For stock or close to stock purposes, the OEM ones tend to be of better quality or at least tend to fail less. For you running much higher PSI than...

* Waves arms in air*And I'm freeeeee, freee reevvvinng!!I think the thread is concurrent that this is a worn clutch disc.

My first thought if it is a stick shift and not an auto would be that you may have a worn out clutch.well since, I am at work and took forever to respond, looks like I was seriously beaten to my response haha.

Just curious to ask, are you replacing the PCV with an OEM one from the dealership or one from an auto parts store?

What are you using for engine management? ECMLink? (DSMLink)What is the color of the smoke? White, Blue, Black?Are you loosing any fluids as far as coolant or oil as of lately?(Going to ask) Have you done a BLT recently?My first thought would be that you are running rich for some reason...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151989574-post2.htmlHere is the links to the service manuals, they may be of some assistance here.

It could also be that you might have a leak in the system causing you to have less than the necessary pressure to engage the system.

Most of your answers can be found in a Chilton's or Haynes service manual which I would suggest you get for easy reference as well as look at the links provided here as these are the Mitsu service manuals...

although it is a good thought, those bolts dont go all the way through unless cracked.

Acronyms: 1000 Already Answered Questions - Questions pageService manual: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.htmlAdditional support: Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home PageTo answer your question, CAS is the Cam...

Okay, very first,Listen to what Kieya has said. Listening to the video, you have a HORRIBLE exhaust leak somewhere. Fix that first. Also, part of the smoking that you see could be due to the fact that it appears that you have some fluids and stuff on the manifold. Being that you just...

Well, sounds like you have quite the problem!First off the plug on the back of the TB is the ISC (Idle Step Control motor). It is supposed to click when the key is turned on. As far as the Temp sensors, from what I remember, there should be 2 plugs on the thermostat body that has a single plug...

Usually with most FMIC's, there may be some minor modifications required in order for the crash beam to fit back on properly.