That car had basic stainless valves. My personal car made 800whp through a TH400.

We have made nearly 1100whp on a stock 1G, unported casting. The car was out of turbo. Not cylinder head.

I sand EVERY single head and set of caps I am servicing. I haven’t seen a head in over 15 years that didn’t have some sort of damage to at least one journal and cap.

Huge advocate of anti 7 bolt talk.The few I have been forced to deal with however, were all done with a torn down block. Punch them out, drill/tap and insert the corresponding plug with thread locker. Then reassemble.

We road raced to our Galant for years at 500whp and never had an issue. I agree with most here. Remove the oil squirters and don’t overthink it. Watching them back out and fail, I personally have no interest in ever using one. The same goes for using a 7 bolt.This is 24 years and nearly 300...

With only 21 cubic inches more and both being small displacement, most end users will not see or notice the difference. I have never stepped out of a 2.3L or 2.4L car and thought, man, that thing has all the torque.In 54mm and under cars, there could be an argument to be made possibly. 55-67mm...

Our current 2g makes 765whp 615tq with a 6466 and a basic 2.0L that has been put together. I stand by my statement.I have built over 275 4g6x’s and built countless cars and tuned even more than that. I speak from real world experience. I have had far more issues consistently with the large...

We seem to run into head gasket issues before block issues with 2.4L blocks. And frequently. I have never personally seen a failed or cracked 2.4L block. I have seen my fair share of failed head gaskets though.However, I have seen more broken crankshafts than blown head gaskets. This is first...

We went 228mph at Bonneville with second hand, actual used rods and pistons (Manley H beam, Ross pistons with .190” wall pins) with a $150 Holset HX52. Crower 64413 cams.Far from ideal.I chuckle with you.

87mm bore blocks will eventually crack and will always have head gasket issues.100mm cranks in a 2.0L block break the crankshafts far to often and make terrible power at high rpm for me to put my name on one.A 67mm small shaft turbo is not a 900whp on a 4G63. Plain and simple. Sure, maybe if...

Very poor choice on the bore size. You need to stick with a 2.0 if you think you want any serious power.2150’s and a 450 will not get you there. Not even on gasoline.The turbo definitely will not get you there. Especially in a T3 footprint.Choosing an H beam for 1000whp is also an...

I use 220 grit sand paper and clean them up with my fingers. That will get them glass smooth by itself usually. I have repaired and ran far worse than that.I never step it down anymore than the 220 either. Obviously if you do it only gets better from there.

Nope. I have seen two six bolts walk. Both were starved of oil however and had other damage.The DSM 7 bolt is just terrible.With that said, I have seen numerous small block chevy’s do it, Toyota 2jz’s do it, the same Honda H23 do it twice(very high mileage car), a Pontiac 301. I have been...

Crankwalk is real and not over exaggerated. This is real world experience. I have personally had my hands on no less than 20 7 bolts that have walked. From fresh rebuilds that walk on first start up, to 1xx,xxx mile engines.So, buyer beware. 7 bolts are TRULY the devil. This is coming from...

And clearly you still said everything and nothing at the same time. Reread what you wrote. One picture of the end of a camshaft with no other pictures to reference does not help those of us who are not mind readers.

You are showing us everything and nothing at the same time. Just about every aftermarket camshaft will have information somewhere on the cam towards the front of the cam. And HKS will be clearly visible.More and better pictures are needed. Then we would actually have something to go by.

McMaster Carr has them. That is where I have bought them in the past for mechanical fuel pump drives.

No, you want overly high oil pressure. It is your car, so you can think incorrectly all you want however.

If you would have stuck with the correct piston from the get go you would not be making this thread. Your research mislead you. How does removing material from an inferior part give you superior results?There is nothing wrong with your stock rebuild approach. It is just wrong.With that...

The 2G piston and pin offers you no advantage. You are literally wasting your time attempting this. Larger diameter does not mean more strength. Wall thickness does.Unless you have a problem with your rods or pistons, you are going down the wrong path here. This is 2022, not 2001. There are...

They are indeed factory bearing sizes for each position. They are indeed on every block. Nothing new nor a secret here.

I also torque the head to 110-120lbs depending on how I feel. You are likely a bit hot in the timing department or are increasing your cylinder pressure in some other way. More info is needed.My experience is that the words “Lifting the head” are used way too often. Unless you are making...

Now you know the answer. There may be problems but, they will be honest with you.

A 2.3 is a waste of just about everyone’s time. Especially a stock type vehicle like yours. Ditch the seven bolt, get a six bolt and do it yourself. Or go the easy route and buy a running donor car(non turbo 1g) and use that engine. Do the timing belt and water pump and go.It is a simple four...

Call ARP direct. Their customer service is fantastic and you will get the information straight from the horse’s mouth. I have had to call plenty of times for custom applications in the past few years or to adapt something that doesn’t belong.

That is clearly not the pistons fault. Either had a fueling failure/ran lean or was poorly tuned to a lean condition. More than enough evidence there showing a lean condition. No piston would have survived that.

Then you need to use faster sensors and hardware. Egt numbers are invaluable. Things melt at certain temperatures. Plain and simple. And egt data is something you review. Unless you have warning lights or an ecu with a safety measure to shut things down. I run a FuelTech ecu in my race car(non...

I never said anything about turning the boost down. I said turn the car down. Do what bastard is doing and learn the car. Boost pressure is irrelevant if that is the only data you have. Having a chassis work correctly will make up for lack of horsepower.The correct timing, egt, back pressure...

Bastard is right. You need to slow it down. I have gone 6.4@112 in the 1/8th at elevation with a 6466 maxed out at 39psi. On all season H rates tires.

Leave the gasket dry. No need for coating. Either it will seal, or it won’t. An “adhesive” isn’t going to fix a poor or aggressive tune.Boost is irrelevant. Like I said, the car made 830fwhp. If that isn’t turned up, I don’t know what is.This car was run fairly rich as it was on gasoline...

Carz and Madcap are in the same building and under the same ownership/umbrella for Western Distribution. Western has a large amount of businesses they run. Some automotive some not.

HiPro engines is now my go to.They did an awesome job on my Festiva engine including the program we put together for a copper head gasket.Colorado Automotive Machine retired.The boys at The Block Shop also retired. Fall of 2021 is when they all hung their hats up.The I crave boost dude...

I run a larger gap on the top ring then the second ring. .024” top, .020” second. I have been doing it this way for nearly 20 years on a 4g63. And I have produced numerous 800-1000hp 4g63’s.

I assemble everything myself.blocks- the block shop Cylinder heads- Colorado automotive machine Crankshafts-Mile High crankshaft

Reread what was told. Please do not torque your head to 80lbs. 100 or 105 is a better answer than either 80 or 90. I do mine at 105. Composite gasket or not.

The intake did nothing for you. The curve is still the same shape and falls off when a factory intake normally does. Your pump gas is no different the my pump gas. The fuel in general is not ideal for forced induction tuning. I tuned a friend’s car in the LA area last month. Two cars actually...

An electronic boost controller and short runner intake will fix most of your curve. Larger camshafts will make the back half come up even more as well.looking at your mod list, you have the controller. Moving out of the shitty Bolton housing will help as well. Why people still waste their time...

If you can feel 300rpm on the street, you are either paying far too close attention the it and the Dyno sheet or you are a better man than me. You absolutely should not notice that. You should however notice all the power it gained out the back from those pictures.shifting your powerband and...

You want to play, you have to pay. When dealing with a tiny engine you cannot have your cake and eat it as well. Put the biggest cam(S3) in and thank me later. Absolute hearsay a cam is going to make that kind of a change in a 4g63. Your turbo selection determines your torque curve. Not your...

His car does. It make peak torque until 6200rpm. That is with a Tial .82 vband housing. Expect the T4 to be even worse.I run .230-235” wrist pins in the 4g63’s I build. Even .210” is not enough for me. Standard Wiseco HD pins are only .220”-.225” depending on the package.It is a foolish myth...

Unless you are on a moon Dyno, you won’t be making 850 with that turbo here in Colorado. I just finished a 2g and all in the turbo would only do 765hp on the Dyno. That is On a very accurate mustang Dyno. Those are awfully small(thin) wrist pins. And you definitely sold yourself short on your...

If it is .025” out of the box, run them. You won’t suffer any abnormal blow by or any negative issues. We have run looser with four digit horsepower numbers and not had issues.I actually my motors just the opposite. .024” top ring, .020” second ring. Been doing that for years and they run...

I disagree. I have made 830whp with a composite gasket. That car did 218mph at the salt flats. If that doesn’t show that it can hold I don’t know what does. To be honest, I don’t think we found the limit yet of a composite gasket. Just waiting for someone to get crazy enough to let me do it.

Sand it and run it. Remember a groove is a low spot and not the end of the world. Maybe a little pressure loss but, you can get away with some deep ones if you have to. Not recommended or ideal obviously. High spots are where the problem lies.

I do both the cap and the head by the way.

Just my finger and sand paper. I do 220grit then 320. I never go smoother than that and don’t have issues. Even bone stock cars like yours always seem to have issues. I have been doing it for about 15 years now.

I sand every head and have never had an issue to 1000whp and 10,000rpm. Almost every head I see now has some cam journal damage of some kind.

There indeed was individual main cap sirius engines. Think 1980’s era stuff.

Move to one of the holes just to the right of the “correct” location. Plenty of holes with the correct thread pitch and size to choose from back there.

Lighter is not the right answer. It never will be in a blown application.Piston- AriasSteel rod- Manley I beam or Pauter if you can afford it.Aluminum- GRP. We have seen long life cycles from these rods.