Alright it's solved.I took the valve cover off to see the lobes position.I rotated to tdc again with lobes up and all is well. Perfect leakage.Lesson learned, just take the VC off next time plus it's easier to rotate engine since cam has hex for wrench...

All cylinders are perfect in compression test. All same number.1,2,and 4 cylinders are perfect on leakdown.#3 is weird. I plug it tester and goes to zero, complete leakage.I hear air coming from #1 plug hole (NONE OTHERS). Rotate cam and stops leaking from #1 but still at zero. AFTER a...

Likely assembly error does not call for the 'all caps' notion. When you have evidence of the failure, please submit.FWIW- http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3578 +1 bjones procedure

Read this http://arp-bolts.mobi/p/tech.php?page=3And this http://arp-bolts.mobi/p/tech.php?page=6And check the calibration of your torque wrench.I've also been told by a machinist to tap the valve to get it to seat. I've also no proof yay or nay- of it being worth the try. My opinion...

Someone sends them this thread, I'd expect to see a brand new head devoid of original casting leftovers, mirror polished for aesthetics, lightened valve train via exotic metals, intake/exhaust ports cut exactly for xx powerband/airflow, free powdercoated VC and a freakin banana split.If that...

Reviving this.For all stock DSM's but mainly modified-What makes you think the filter is built to pass that volume of oil? When you hit the key, the starter can draw 500+amps for a split second then stabilize around 100.Even in stock vehicles, the bypass valve is open more than you think...

Guess I got lucky out here in V8 country, when I got my head back I simply had to do some extra lapping on just couple of valves. I let WD-40 sit in all intake ports for two nights, flipped and did the exhaust. Only a couple leaked. Lapped a bit and no leak. Leakdown test on engine stand had...

Here's the adjustables I run, when I degreed the cams it was surprising how far off from true things were. I like the strong and somewhat stealthy appearance they have. Oh and don't forget a couple 12pt ARP bolts to hold them to the cam :thumb:

Like bogus mentioned, you're not running the 2ga sensor that reads off the cam gear right?I like my skunk2's. I haven't heard of them/or even know if they're still made but I like how they have much more bolts to tighten down rather than only 3. You know, feeling of security it won't slip...

Interesting stuff in here, not sure on your question though. http://www.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe%2Fdocuments_module&file=TB%20011_E2_Hydraulic_Tensioners.pdf

Does the sound change with the clutch pedal applied?Could it be one of the accessory belts?Exhaust leak? To check for an exhaust leak go pick up some Seafoam from any auto parts store. Pull a vacuum line off with the engine running and suck up 1/4 of the can. Shut the car off quickly after...

Guys any thoughts?

Funny, just like I said in my 3rd paragraph. :|Not being a jerk here really, but Google it and see what I mean if you don't see my angle.

I've been wanting to discuss this for a while, still don't have the time to do a full post so I'll make it as short and sweet I can.By oil bypass valve I mean the one located in the filter. Not the one that controls max allowable oil pressure for the engine located at the oil filter housing...

Compare the fluidamper to your stocker for correct mark placement?I seem to recall fluidampers mark being off.

My bad, didn't see that quick spun a main comment.But B is here so all is well :)

Have you even measured and evaluated parts yet? Watch all the blueprinting videos on Jafromobile on youtube then download the factory service manual from mitsubishilinks.com. You'll need some machinist tools if you want to do things right.No questions asked run the factory crank, they are...

OP said pistons, as in plural. Unless you caught that and were talking about all 4 being bored off center. I'm no machinist though, just pointing that out.Here ya go OP Piston to Valve Clearance Guide

I'm not too worried about that part of the exhaust since it doesn't get nearly as hot. Did you read the PDF on the stuff I'm using? http://www.jbfleet.com/MSDS/38830.pdfIt's good for the temperature anyway.

Just wanted to update, I ended up Helicoiling the studs, some I really didn't need to but enough of them needed it so I just went ahead and did them all. Took me about an hour. Used copper AS on the studs threads as well as the nut ends. Did that to all of them except the middle lower one, which...

If its in the car I generally dont measure it, I go by when the grenade pin can be removed easily. That method sets the tension smack dab in the middle of the spec. It's also like 100x easier.

Sorry guys, I really appreciate the info. I've been swamped at work.I've never run without an air filter and I test for boost leaks a lot (mainly looking for ones in the intake manifold that could suck debris in)The turbo is very recently rebuilt with an oil restrictor installed, so I have...

That part of the manifold doesn't get nearly as hot as the collector area. How do I know? I use a paint stick to mark any bolts I torque down and the marks for the exhaust studs were still bright and red the same as they were when I first marked them. The manifold to turbo bolt marks were gone...

Hey guys I just got this ARP stud kit for the exhaust side, and would really like to prevent them from snapping/seizing for ease of removal in the future. Some nice high quality stuff I must say! Anyway, since the ARP stuff is SS and it's threading into aluminum, should I Helicoil all the holes...

I don't know how it would be, because I double and triple checked the cylinder bores/piston skirts. It was dead on at .0035 and the coating is less than .0005

Any comments BogusSVO? Is that pretty predictable wear?

Thanks for dropping by.The block was bored .020" over and honed. Still can see the crosshatching. The machinist waited until they got the pistons to set the PTW, and I measured to make sure after I got everything back. This was freshly done less than 2k miles ago. I can definitively hear...

Kinda what I was thinking. It's one of the tradeoffs of high PTW clearances. Because the most scratching was on front side of the cylinder (towards the radiator) probably due to the pin offset and clock wise rotation of the engine and when the cylinder fires, the crown of the piston cocks...

Well my leakdown tests were pretty consistent with each cylinder, less than 10%I meant SHOULD I have gone with more or less clearance when I built it.Wiseco forged stroker pistons. In the box there was a recommended PTW clearance, somewhere in the .002-.003 neighborhood (paper is in the...

Hey guys I'm here replacing a crap ITM headgasket with the proven Felpro and here's what my cylinders look like after 3K miles.Not sure if the visible side loading is a-okay but there's really not much I can do about it so I hope it's okay. Piston to wall clearance was set to .0035" and ring...

The bore would come out of round where the cap meets the block. I personally would keep running it. If it hasnt given any problems yet I wouldnt fret. But in the future, it never hurts to be certain on machine work.

It's simple to know. Torque the main caps down as if you were for the last time, except with no crank and no bearings. You would then take an inside micrometer and measure the bore in different spots. All the measurements should be the same down to the thousandth (.001) and not come out egg...

I would have a machinist go through it and evaluate if you don't want a headache later. Check for cracks everywhere (UV dye), cam bore alignment, repair any damaged threads, valve seats, guides, sludge buildup, etc. Can't really tell from the pics but if everything checks out I wouldn't hesitate...

Yeah, it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the lower cover. Just the upper cover was moving around a bit since it wasn't bolted on tight enough. It's just strange the way the belt was wearing vs where the upper cover was contacting the belt/gears. Completely opposite..

Well I just wanted to update this thread, as I know how much I hate stumbling upon a thread that is unresolved.Weirdest thing, and I don't exactly understand. As shown in above posts, the wear was on the OUTSIDE (drivers side) of the belt. I noticed one day that the inside (passenger side)...

The test that Jackson Auto shared I think is a good one for the DIY'er. However, I got little tiny fizzing bubbles on every valve no matter what I did. I had the seats cut for brand new valves and lapped them in three times. They had that nice even line all the way around indicating full...

I don't mean to be a pessimist, but it probably is not just be one bent valve.Flip the intake ports upward and fill them with water. Let them sit for at least an hour and none should be leaking. Do the same for the exhaust valves. Note that one exhaust runner/valve, which is located FURTHEST...

Glad to hear you got it worked out :)

Yes. Please dont. :thumb:

Maybe he said CRANKshaft bearings?You are correct, camshaft rides on a journal

I normally put a battery charger on to charge battery up between tests which keeps test results consistent. Example, no charger I got 140psi then 135, 130, 125. Something scary like that. Then retested with charger and same time between tests, I got 150psi +/- 2psi.Cam overlap will effect test...

Your call but every set of rods is needed to be checked for weight, just a rule of thumb really. I haven't heard of being out of round, that's strange. I've also never heard of anyone breaking/bending the Eagles, maybe that's because they're rated at 1000HP.

Ah okay I see they sell them by the size, not application right?You can get the rods magnifluxed to check for any cracks. I would also get the rods balanced at your machine shop, even though Eagle says they are within .5 grams mine was off about a 1-2 grams each.

Not sure how those rods got dinged but I can advise on the bushings.When replacing the bushings in my Eagle rods I could not find a set anywhere. Eagle does not in-house make the bushings, they order a boat-load (literally, they order a couple thousand at a time) from overseas. About 4 months...

Well according to the Fidanza's website, the step is set as per factory specsFAQ200 miles shouldn't change the step so your FW, disc, and PP should all be fine. So now all that's left is the fork/ball. How many miles are on them? Did you notice if they were shiny upon reassembly?

No the slave has nothing to do with what you're checking (as long as clutch pedal isn't pressed). You're seeing where the clutch fork stops at which is limited by the TOB being pressed up to the PP. If you can move the fork with your hand PAST the halfway mark (passenger side of halfway mark)...

Take a quick look at this link and in the picture at the very bottom, where does your fork sit as of now? TRE TECH TIPS

Yup! That's normal, a 6bolt swapped 2G will have one less bolt on the bellhousing. I just used a nut and a bolt to keep the starter plate up against the bellhousing but I doubt it's needed. Also, there is a bolt closest to the firewall that threads into the transmission bellhousing that comes in...

Leak down test would be a good indicator of whether a rebuild is necessary or not :)http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

Come to remember it would set the P1400 code