Shoot I wouldn’t hesitate to run that flywheel! I see some staining from rust but no heat marks or anything, I’m willing to bet it’s a fresh surface and just rusted before it got used, however you know my bad habits of throwing junk together just works out in my favor by some miracle.

I mean not to negate your thoughts on it but how bad off is that shell really? Is it down south rusty where there’s some scaling here and there and is northerners would be like “this thing is real solid!”, or is it actually rotted through in various places?

Been trying to talk myself out of tossing a 16g on the rotted 1g I have and just driving the shit out of it with no ragrets while I make the Eclipse what I want it to be. I have so many parts I can’t talk myself out of it.

And stories like that is why I tell people the most fun you can possibly bolt to a dsm is a 16g! Don’t get me wrong, I’ve had my fun with “big” turbos, but at the end of the day the 16g will always be my favorite.

Look at several other hx40 set ups in stock location, if the wastegate dump is an issue re route it to where it’s not, if hoses are intervening with it fix it so they’re not as these our problems no one else has with that set up. Do it the right way and cry once, I will tell you right now...

Not to thread jack but why are you so dead set on using that radiator when you have more than enough room with an ERL manifold and hx40 to use a full radiator? I get it in @TeamFury ’s case as with top mount set ups and what not there might not be room so then it makes sense, but if you can fit...

Go figure my “nice” one is blown apart and doesn’t run, and the stock one runs and just sits there while I get horrible ideas for it.

Ive also used a 90’ trans with no such issue.

Glad to hear it’s running good and has remained running good, many of us can’t say that much right now lol .

A super low mileage auto with a trans lab kit already in the valve body and matching t case with a Forced Four box included? (What do I win lol)

That’s how I looked at it so how we always did them. Deal with changing the levers out right there on the bench to work with the more common pieces or rip the console out and and fish the cables out and all that nonsense to use less common stuff, I liked simply changing the levers and bolt the...

Not hard if you have an air hammer, someone on another recent thread I just seen gave a great explanation of how to get at it that broke down how simple it was but I can’t for the life of me remember what thread it was! In short, I know you don’t have one but it makes for a great excuse to go...

I will say, now that all of that’s solved I have no issue getting off track, I’m envious of that mkiv Supra smic! Hard to get a hold of one these days.

If it was me, if your cables and shifter are in good order I’d swap the 91-94 levers off the confuckulated trans on to the ‘90 trans. I always found it easier going that route.

Being it’s new I doubt it’s the sensor but if you have a spare worth testing. It is possible like you said attempting to wire in the GM maf directly cooked something in the ECU if the sensor and the wiring check out.

Did you use a known good IAT sensor? I had a parts store special go bad and log -40 degrees, tossed in a real AC Delco one off a car at pull a part my buddy pocketed and had in his tool box and that one never let me down.

You can indeed do your own wiring for speed density! There are write ups on here that explain it, there’s no built in resistors or anything like the cable made for the GM maf. Don’t get me wrong, ECMtuning’s plug and play cable is very nicely made and still in production, but not at all...

If you WERE to opt to toss a stock maf back on it for sake of working out the bugs it’s not going to care there’s a 3 inch exhaust or Supra sidemount on it, what the maf cares about is if more air is moving through it than what it can read (that 2000hz cap that wereonboost made mention of)...

Hey now, knocking out a few honeycombs and backing out the calibration screw goes a long way with the good ol 1g maf, I know you’ve been in the game long enough to remember that trick lol! But all joking aside and while that does work there’s absolutely no reason to do that in the year 2024...

Not a bad move since you plan to go SD anyway and seem to be on track with your use of ecmlink thus far. There are things I like about using a maf as well that it seems a lot of the dsm crowd has gotten away with but you can’t go wrong with speed density, takes away some of the headache...

You can’t simply hard wire the GM maf even with ECMlink. You either need their plug and play cable that’s specialty built by them (and no longer offered) for the GM maf that they explain on their wiki why it’s necessary, or the maf translator set to the base settings for stock injectors while...

Also not likely directly related to your problem but something to make life a bit easier, stock 1g maf’s are cheap, take the GM maf and maf translator out of the equation for now now that you have ecmlink at your disposal. It sounds as if someone a while back was using it for its piggyback...

Something to remember to is this thing sat for who knows how long all freshly put together before you started it for the first time. Things are going to make noise and be goofy a bit just from lack of use until you drive it and limber everything up. I’m with staple, don’t over think it, put...

Oh definitely worth doing gaskets and seals while it’s out and easy to access, really as inexpensive and simple as it is to re-gasket and deep clean an engine while it’s on a stand it always seemed foolish to me not to. However I wouldn’t go doing a full rebuild on anything just because it sat...

My bet is dried up valve seals that might even come back to life after some use. My “new” 6 bolt for my 1g had a stuck ring or 3 from sitting, a fresh oil change with the cheapest 15w40 Walmart had along with a couple gallons of fresh ethanol free recreational gas and a can of Berrymans b12 and...

So might I ask, are you looking to try to turbocharge the 4g37 that’s in it or swap in a 4g63?

If it gives you any morning motivation the trans that came out of my car when I took it apart is my “spare” and is absolutely whooped and is the best transmission I’ve had. It is not in the least bit happy going into 2nd gear and came out of a 1g Laser Erik Whisler’s buddy was delivering pizzas...

I say throw it in, fill it up with the cheapest fluid you can find for it and run it through the gears and what not a few times and if it seems ok fill it with whatever fluid you prefer and roll with it and see what happens. Don’t feel too bad, a buddy of mine did the same thing with his 1g a...

As others mentioned it’s worth it on an n/an application but nothing another pound or 2 of boost won’t make up for. To put it into perspective there’s a good handful of guys that have went 8s and quicker on stock valves, let alone oversized ones, not a weak point on the 4g63.

Makes sense but keep in mind too that doesn’t always apply. In Cracked’s case yes being awd I believe one of the aftermarket flywheels would be the way to go, but for us FWD crowd in a drag or straight highway blast situation we need the weight of the stock flywheel as it’s been found a lighter...

I would definitely go the new route if you don’t have a competent machine shop in your area being it’s a stepped flywheel as that gets a bit trickier, over the years I’ve seen people get burned on that. If we were talking a flat flywheel that’s really hard to screw up, but in this case new...

The flywheel that’s in my car now had been machined and not used but got a little rusty sitting for several years before I got a hold of it so I gave it the ol scotch brite machining to clean it up, never had an issue with it. However, being that I knew it was machined prior to rusting I didn’t...

But looking saved a lot of heart ache! Not knocking anyone but this is the kind of detail many miss that cause a lot of problems down the road. Sucks to have to find a different head but it was a good catch.

I made a half assed fixture which is really just a 2x6 with some 2x4’s screwed to it. I get the front end of the car up higher than Willie Nelson, then I slide the floor jack underneath it with said “fixture” on it and jack it up until it’s touching the transmission, then I unbolt it the rest...

She’ll come up outta there, you oughta see that mount on some of the cars up here that spent every winter covered in salt for 30 years.

Nice man congrats! Now it’s just plugging in the puzzle pieces but it’s a better feeling when it’s a runner.

Now time to take it out in the street in front of the house and launch it, remind the neighbors where they stand!Nah don’t do that, but in all seriousness it looks good! I miss that “just got my car running” feeling.

I wasn’t saying use the whole Chinese 16g, but rather buy one that’s already roached to take the 7cm turbine housing from. While it’s not uncommon for the turbo itself to not live long, the 7cm turbine housing and adjustable wastegate actuator that comes on them actually isn’t too bad. The 7cm...

16g would be your best bet, however blown Chinese 16g knockoffs are a dime a dozen, could always rob the more open 7cm housing and adjustable gate actuator off one cheap for your 14b if desired. I think it’s been years since I’ve seen a 6cm turbine housing from a 14b that isn’t cracked.

I like where this is headed! If I may give advice based on experience, with an safc (I know you’re using a maf translator but same principle) and evo 8 560’s at 22psi on a 16g with the 9:1 non turbo pistons I couldn’t avoid knock with straight 93 octane pump gas, I had to mix a gallon of 110...

Unfortunately for me I was knocked on my ass sick all last week and didn’t make it out there until Sunday and only stayed a whopping 2 hours and left, however I did make sure I walked by to take a look at this. Thing is absolutely spectacular in person!

Parts! Wasn’t expecting the rockauto order until Tuesday but hey I’ll take it. Unfortunately too late in the day and won’t have time to mess with it until next weekend if I decide not to go out to the shootout.

International school bus intercooler incoming!But on that note if you’re not using your fog lights any time soon I know a dsm in need…

Can we please put your fog lights back on?? So much room for activities without the shutters lol

Don’t feel bad, you’d rather have the car sorted than be another stereotypical “shootout crunch” guy. Every year I see at least 10 cars that were slammed together the week before in a rush drug across 2 states untuned then either don’t make a pass or grenade something all over the track, never...

Finally got around to reading through this, fantastic work you’re doing! However if I may give advice if you come across ECM tunings plug and play GM maf cable used grab it, I know they’re no longer making them but nice to have if you opt to keep the GM maf vs speed density. The maf translator...

That thing looks fantastic, love it and some of the older tech on it (and I don’t say that in a bad way!).

And everywhere you look there’s even more rust! I’ve came across rustier ones at pull a part and this one isn’t quite there but it would take more effort than it’s worth plus solid pieces from other cars to make this one right. The worst is the core supports rotted out where the cross member...

So the plot thickens! Browsing it turns out this car once belonged to user knochgoon24 and he indeed has a vehicle profile of it. Unfortunately, he hasn’t been on since February of 2021. As you can see from his profile salt has really done its damage since his ownership in 2016 but sounds as...

So let me just say despite how dirty and rusty everything is it felt good to work on a DSM again for the first time in a while!First things first, the most basic of things, I changed the oil. Wasn’t the worst I’ve seen but it was due for it anyway. Keep in mind this 6 bolt runs strong and...