On the AC compressor wiring. All 3 wires come from the engine fuse box. Take a look at the compressor, is there a little plastic sensor cover at the compressor with 2 wires coming out of it?, if it does has the sensor then sure all wires come from the fuse box.One wire comes from the fuse box...
Looks like the harness is all messed up, the problem gets worst which you are not looking for the problem (bad wire) but instead you are adding another line to source the current.Doing it that way and not getting results makes me think the bad wire is shorting some how and making the system...
I wouldn’t do a starter kill switch, that’s being for ages and everyone knows how to start a car without finding the switch button, and that’s without saying if it’s a stick shift, it will start with a push.I would go with a kill switch to the ECU switch current, and using 2 or even 3...
First pic is for the noise condenser, here is some info so you know what it does and how it looks likehttps://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/part-question-pic-included.288714/the rest of the pics are hard to see it, you need to take a better pic of it and try to get the hollé sensor not just...
When you activate the fans via ECMLINK, the ECU ignores the signal from the ETC and turns the fan ON, so saying that the ECU is not seeing the right signal from the ETC to be able to turn ON the fans.
Basically I’m saying the exact same thing as STEVE but in a different way.
If they don’t turn on by them self, then check the cooling temperature sensor (thermal) it might’ve dead.I will asume it’s a 1g, if it is a 1g, the sensor is mounted in the radiator, see if it’s working properly.
Also you can bypass the sensor by adding ground to the connector and see if...
I have run it the same way, my purpose of it is to hide the wiring and this way being the connector on the bottom side, it does helps hiding and running the harness to the back of the intake (if wanted).
Ok so what you found or you did to fix problem, and what exactly is the new problem, is just the fuel pump and starter?..Be a bit more specific so we know what you are doing and have a better understanding on what’s going on.
Good diagram Jpenny.
OP, if you are seeing power on the black with white stripe wire, disconnect the connector from the switch itself and check again, if you don’t see current on the black with white stripe wire, then your switch is shorting, BUT, If you still see power on the black with stripe...
That’s a good technique when using stock fans and works supper.
That’s how I used my car for so long, now I have two pushers and They are one speed so I’m not even using the high speed signal, just the low.
Ok at the ignition key, remove the ignition connector, it’s a 6 pin connector with heavy wires.
Check current on the pins, there should be only one with positive, if my suspicions are right, you are going to fin 2 pins with current (+).Check the connector and report back if you find 2 wires...
Do you have a diagram for your car? What year is it, give us info on the model and all to guide you better. I can guide you on every single wire to trace the problem.Just to have it clear, it was all right but you relocate the battery and removed the alarm then all this happened right?, or...
Is that all you did (wiring wise)?
No fuse box relocation or didn’t touch any other wire?.
You mention You T some wires but weren’t cut, can you explain that.If that all you did then you might have something else going on, because of the remote start alarm, they might it wired it wrong...
The problem is the ignition current source, it’s direct to the battery.Trace the line to see where you connected to, or at least take some pics of videos how the wiring is routed to see if we can spot something.
Why not using coolant settings instead adding wiring and stuff for the egr or FPS.Just go to the coolant setting and add what temperature you want the fans to turn ON.You can even set it to turn ON at 190. This way you don’t need any wiring stuff.
You have to post a step by step of all what you did when relocating the battery.The way it sounds is, you wire ted the switch line directly to the battery.
If you saw smog coming from the ignition, open it up and see what’s is being burning, you will see what wire it is, and once you figure it out, post it here so we know what wire it is, so we can tell you where to look or how to solve the problem.When something happens like that, you have to...
The ability to remove the alternator signal when using a different alternator, the fuel pump prime time which you can set up the time how long you want it to prime Etc etc.
I would suggest an OEM alternator, if you changed the alternator, then I will suspect is a reman one, find a used OEM alternator in good conditions or rebuild it if it’s bad, they last for years.I got an autopart store a life time warranty alternator, but I got frustrated to change it so...
If the alternator internals got power steering fluid, the alternator might be dead.
Power steering fluid is the cause of most dsm alternators following heat.Your symptoms are most likely a bad alternator.
Yes, they work they have the same input.My car came with a NT cluster, and I didn’t realized till I drove the car home.It all works but it doesn’t have the boost input, other then that it all works,
Unfortunately, I can help on that. You have to do the hassle which you are the only one who knows what was done to the harnessHowever, you can track the tach wire and make sure it is wired right.
No it doesn’t help, if you are having rpm reedness problems, you won’t fix it like that, Now IF when relocating the sensor, you bypass a Brocken wire (which could be the culprit) and get it to work, then that’s a totally different story.
No. They don’t need to be grounded, they have their own ground source, the TPU needs the bracket though, the bracket where it bolts down works as heat dissipation, so leave the bracket with the TPU.
Ok. You were saying you have 10v in the black yellow wire (starter ). So it means it stays cranking all the time the wire is connected?You have to start from the starter and fuel pump relay, check the fuel pump relay trigger wire that comes from the ECU, to see if you are getting the signal...
Focus on the starter trigger wire and fuel pump.Yiu have the prime wire as well, At the engine bay, behind the throttle body (fire wall) there is a connector where you can feed to it and make the fuel pump work, test it and see if it turns on.
You stated before you removed some stuff, did you do any wiring stuff?, if you didn’t, disconnect the connector and see if it primes, if it does, then you did something wrong with the wiring, now if it still doesn’t prime, then you might blew a fuse.
I found this battery cable harness that I’m talking about. You can see the black connector (very bottom), that’s the connector for the starter.At the top of the harness (left top) the big cable connectors to the starter and the small black connector is the starter trigger that connects to the...
Yes it is very simple, the male connectors meets at the battery cable (lower side). Just fallow the battery cable down to the transmission side and you will see the wire coming of the cable loom (cable cover),
Have you check started trigger wire to see if you are getting signal when cranking?
The line goes from the starter to the starter relay, BUT, there is a connector en between, the connector line runs on the same wireloom of the buttery cable, just fallow the battery cable and you will see a...
No comment on the alternator shield but wondering if you have a steering pump leakage, the steering fluid will kill an alternator if it has cheap internal parts.Make sure there is no leaks dripping to the alternator.I replace the alternator 4 times in a month, it was a lifetime warranty from...
Sorry for the bad information it’s pin #12 and #25 Where it sees power from the switch.Here is a good information talking about the ECU functionality.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-basic-ecu-mpi-circuit-function.497188/I delete the last post so not to spread bad information.
It’s just hard to think the ECU is sending positive to the relay instead negative,
Can you cut the wire on the ECU side and test if the ECU still sends positive out? My suspicion is some how there is a positive wiring connected to the line and that’s why you are getting positive because of...
Ok now we are getting somewhere,Now confirm your blue wire (coming from ECU) indeed is coming from the ECU,
Check continuity from the relay to the ECU, my guess is you have the relay wired from somewhere else.
Ok hold your horses. You are not getting signal from the ECU to the mpi relay.
Now is there signal coming from the ecu OR you are not getting signal to the MPI relay....In a few words, you checked both sides to verify?, you could mest up and connected the line to somewhere else and that’s...
JINSCHO made a good point.Make sure all cut wires are taped.You should fix one problem at a time, you know you have one so fix it before trying to fix another,, YOU STAED YOU ARE NOT GETTING SIGNAL FROM THE ECU TO THE MPI RELAY.Did you fixe if? What you did, I didn’t read anything...