Yes, it has boost/fuel cut feature.

Unless you are using as a narrowband as well, there is no adjustment.A few years ago I went from the rear location to the front and did not notice a difference at all.

On a stock cams/intake manifold vehicle 5500 seems to be the most accurate in terms of ve of the engine. After that you'll notice the BoostEst will slowly drop even if actual boost status stays flat. At this point you really are just adjusting MAF sliders to keep your AFREst a close to actual...

Yes, closer to zero is more fuel. Use the MAF sliders to dial in the MAF(match BoostEst and actual boost at or near 5500) and use the global fuel to dial in injectors. Lots of fine tuning besides that but that'll get you started.

The highest MAF reading I'm seeing is about 1100Hz. You are adjusting 1200+ for no reason IMO. Even your BoostEst and actual boost is way off because of the added MAF signal. You need to zero things back out and add global fuel if need be. Adjust and dial in both your MAF and injectors.

You just need to dial in your MAF with the sliders. Your settings are kind of crazy right now and your BoostEst and AFRs show it.

- Why is your injector scaling set for 1515s if you're running 2150s? - Something is seriously wrong with your fuel pressure, assuming it's logging correctly. Try activating your fuel pump while the car is off and adding air pressure into the AFPR boost source to make sure its working...

If you email FIC they will give you the info on your injectors. They are pretty specific to each injector/set.

I made 565awhp and 524awtq in 2010. 2.0L, hks 272s, cyclone intake, 56mm hx40@38psi, etc. My slip should be in the records here.

Your global fuel is way off, not your deadtime. Correct that and post another log.

At just a quick glance it looks as if you are running extremely rich. That can definitely be your issue.Looks like your injector settings are for 829cc and not 1120cc like you state you have.

Your ECU thinks you are running 20psi because your MAFComp is terribly adjusted. You first need to get your BoostEst to match actual boost @ 5500 RPMs or so. Once doing this then you 'tune' in your injectors so that your AFREst matches actual AFR.

Im sorry, I didnt mean basic setup as in mods. I meant basic setup as in your BASE setup.You need to add injector deadtime to get your CombinedFT closer to 0%. You also want to capture and display ISCPosition to make sure you are near 30, which helps the ECU control idle.Not sure about the...

If you get a chance post a log of the car at idle while fully warmed up. No need for a wideband for basic setup.

Just looking at the idle section of the log, I would make a few small adjustments.1) Screw in your BISS screw slowly and watch your ISCPosition. Adjust until it's reading ~30. Sometimes this can take a little time so be patient. 2) Your CombinedFT is a little lean and the ECU is adding ~6%...

I would start by zeroing your fuel sliders. They only work in WOT(open loop) settings and really aren't the correct way to get your fuel where you want. First thing I look at is your AirflowPerRev and it's pretty high at ~.32. You first want to get that near .25 which means tinkering with...

I noticed as the ECU goes into open loop it also goes into idle control as well. Try checking the box 'Disable Idle Switch While Moving' and see what happens. What size injectors btw?Not sure on the DTC code. I know there is sometimes an issue with that code on 2Gs. I used to get it on...

If you can, post a 3rd gear log. Id like to see both logs and compare.

Yes, that is the formula to calibrate your MAF.And yes you do want to use the DA tables and not the sliders. Sometimes sliders can be useful for some quick changes on the fly(where you do not want to shut the car off, etc) but anything permanent should be set through the DA tables.

I see what you mean. Try stabilizing your VE a bit if possible. It's going from 49-60 at times.Try locking it in open loop and see what happens as well.

That idle log looks really good. You may want to open your BISS up just a bit to get the ISCPosition closer to 30.As far as the cruise log. Not much to see. Just take that log and run the adjustment tool via DSMlink and make sure you dont see anything crazy.

There are so many wrongs here, lol....Your MAF calibration is drastically off. You are adding a LOT of airflow/fuel that you shouldn't be with your MAFComp sliders. Then you are subtracting a lot of fuel with your fuel sliders. You are also playing with fuel and timing sliders which is...

Timing at idle will always fluctuate to help keep the idle steady.

According to the posted log, at about 5800 RPMs the MAP sensor reading drops off the face of the earth. Goes from 19psi to idle vacuum. Because of this the AFRs goes from low 12s to high 15s and timing shoots all the way to 38* advanced!Check the wiring for the AEM MAP sensor asap!

Post a datalog.

How much boost are you running on the last log, specifically at 5500 RPMs?If you are on a stock 2G MAF, as it seems, then you should not need to calibrate near as much as you are. Im leaning towards dialing in the 1050s better than what ECMlink is suggesting. Very common.Even after that...

Im sorry I dont. Just off the top of my head Im thinking if you are taking away 30% in the airflow you should add it right back with fuel. 2150-30% = 1505. Maybe to be safe enter the value for 1450cc(-69.1)?Honestly I would turn the boost way down and try that. Hopefully someone else may chime...

Replied on the Link forums...At 5500 RPMs you are ~11psi yet the ECU thinks you are ~23.5psi. Looking at your MAFRaw(2400Hz) you are at +29.7. I understand you are trying to match your true AFRs to your AFRatioEST but you also need to match your injectors in as well.IMO, I would zero out...

With 300whp you shuold definately be trapping more than 104. I trap high 103s all the time and Id be lucky to dyno 240whp. If you can get your 60' in the 2.2 range and keep your shifting fast you can get low 13s.

Are you asking if thats what you should do? If so, then yes. Just set everything to 0 on the AFC.

Sorry, didnt see the 2G mas in there. Your EGT numbers dont sound right, but I dont want to get into those.Just start off with your fuel trims. Once you get them dialed in carry the numbers to your high throttle, and then 'tune' from there.

Your might be getting rich knock. With 550s you should be closer to -10(-15 hacked mas). Unless of course your running way too much boost. Just read the dyno tuning tech article a few times and go by that. Youll be set in no time.

Im not sure about the o2 voltage. Ive heard its not good to go buy so I usually dont bother. Do you have any adjustments on the AFC? If I were you, I would zero everything out and go from there. If anything, just set up your fuel trims(which may ok anyways). With a full 3" and Supra SMIC...

Base timing should usually be around 5*. Make sure to read over the tuning tech article that Tuners has. You may want to search for your base setting to get you started with the 660s(prolly ~-18), but its gonna be all on yourself to get it tuned right.

Well, 17 isnt bad since you only took it to 6300 RPMs. Take it to near redline and you may have gotten 19 or so. If you are knocking in the higher range turn the boost down a little and see what happens. I would say richen it some up top, but it seems your on stock injectors.

Obvious first...your car is a WOT and your TPS is somewhere near 100% right? If all is good there, I would check your fuel pressure. I see you have the B&M regulator so you probably have it turned up. If its too high and your leaning out your afc too much that can cause very high timing.

Maybe, maybe not. I dont have actual experience with that but you will be leaning the ECU so much that your timing may go through the roof. Maybe someone else can shed some light on a setup like yours.You can use the MMcd software, which is free.

Its worth to have one IMO. You cannot tune by it, but its a great backup for daily driving. Mine is usually near 1000* at idle and you never want to go over 1600*. Once you get near 1600*, your probably knocking at that point anyways.badboyr66, what is the point in mounting it after the...

IMO you should have more timing. I dont know if your knocking or not, but you should probably see closer to 20+* of timing. Im pretty sure(I know I shouldnt guess) that the very high 02s like that indicate you are rich.

Personally I would read our own tech article on how to tune an AFC and start over, at least on the low end of things. I know RRE knows boatloads more than me but tuning your low end so it sounds "pretty close to smooth" is just too vague IMO. You have a logger, you may as well use it. Set...

Its not completely necessary to have 550s, but theres only so much you can do with 450s. Especially in the top end. Your boost is gonna max them out easily. The only thing I can see you trying is keeping the boost down a bit and leaning the top end out so you push back fuel cut.

You wont be able to do a whole lot with stock injectors. First thing I would do after the AFC install is check your fuel trims(especially if you have a hacked MAS). After you get them straightened out I would turn the boost down to near stock and start logging. Log your RPMs, timing, knock...

Here is what I mean for my case. My AFC voltage reads perfectly with throttle, but not the AFC TPS. The AFC TPS reads 100% about 3/4 throttle(although my throttle and actual TPS are fine). So if I want to set my high settings on the AFC to 75%, where do I actually set it? If the AFC goes...

Your log numbers look very good. One thing that makes me think is that your leaning your low settings. If your MAS is hacked you usually add fuel to bring back your fuel trims and if your MAS isnt hacked that I would assume(although I shouldnt) you wouldnt need much tuning at all down low.

The thing I worry about is when you set your min/max, is the AFC going by its TPS or voltage? That means alot in our situations.

Im having a similar problem with my TPS and AFC numbers. My AFC TPS hits 100% at like 75% of actual throttle(via logger). The funny part is that my voltage is fine on the AFC. Starts near 0 and gradually ends up ~4.9+ at WOT. The only thing Ive heard is that the AFC uses 'fuzzy' logic and...

Your probably knocking in the midrange, but your top end looks ok. All I would say is read the dyno-tuning article enough times that you understand it and then tune your car the right way. We can give you pointers here and there, but its not gonna help much.

I dont think anyone can really tell you why your numbers are what they are without any other info on your car. Timing is definately a big factor in this. Do you have any logger numbers from your run?

If you plan on doing any modifications at all to your car, then there is no reason NOT to get one.

Wtih stock injectors I would keep everything zero'd out for now. If anything, maybe just make sure your fuel trims are correct. Once you get your 550s, follow the tuning guide in the tech section. Set your fuel trims and then go from there. Thats really anyone can tell you.