You won't really gain much from a header, so i would just go with what ever fits your price if you are determined to get one. Make sure to wrap it or else your engine bay temps will be very hot. Also what are you talking about engine swaps?
There is no special grease or assembly lube needed for the pistons or rings. Just a light film of oil on the cylinders is all that you need. Grease would likely make more problems than anything because it would gunk up the oil control rings. How did you install the oil ring gaps? The compression...
It is fairly easy to change, remove belts, water pump pulleys, crank pulley, ac tensioner and them the covers can be removed. If you are having that much trouble with it than i would consider buying a good manual for the car.
Stay away from auto parts stores re manufactured cranks. I have seen so many problems with them over the years it is crazy. They will usually not check for straightness before grinding them so the mains are always off center. These are likely machined by the same type of people who are selling...
So the answer that you want to hear is to buy a test pipe than. I am not sure what you are looking for here. If you want the car to pass inspection than put a cat on it. If you want it to fail and not be able to be registered than just throw a test pipe in there. Lastly, if you can afford to...
You can also machine it wrong with a mill. If it has lines in it from the tool than it isn't flat enough. It should look almost shiny with very little to no tool marks.
What makes you think you have a bad block? 150 is a little low, but with all of them being consistent I'd be willing to bet that your gauge reads low, or you didn't have the throttle open. There are only so many things here that can make this happen. If the block isn't actually cracked, and...
Certification means nothing, I know a few guys who went to school who didn't know their ass from their elbow after tech school, wyotech and uti were the schools attended.
Have you done a hydrocarbon test of the coolant system to check for combustion leaking into it. There is really not much left other than a clog, or pushing coolant from cylinder pressure thru the gasket.
You aren't going to be burning that much oil with bad valve seals, you likely installed the oil rings incorrectly when you rebuilt it, or the piston to wall clearance is out of spec.
Don't listen to this guy, he is spouting off stuff that he heard from someone who heard it from their second cousin than heard it from someone else. Megasquirt is a VERY powerful platform, and if tuned right will make your car JUST AS DRIVABLE as when it came off the show room floor.
Do you have any way to tune this setup? Raising the compression and installing bigger cams will likely make the car have less power if not tuned properly.
No welding equipment or welding expierence, this isn't going to happen. You will need to heavily modify the front subframe for the transfer to fit. On a 2g awd the transfer case sits under the subframe. On a evo the transfer sits on top of the subframe. You will also have to fabricate motor...
There will be carbon buildup on the outside around the leak if it is leaking. Don't worry about the carbon inside, it is normal and would be a huge waste of time. The rattleing is likely the heat shield.
Not necessarily. If it is just a little out of balance it will be fine, but something that is severely out of balance can damage the bearings, or break the crank. The engine will feel a hell of a lot smoother while driving the car though.
It could be wise to do so. You won't need to have it balanced as an assembly. You will need to have the crank balanced separately, than have the small end of the rods balanced to each other and then the big end balanced to each other. From there you will need to balance the pistons to each...
Tightening the alternator won't make it jump time. If you didn't set the tensioner right than it could jump time. If the timing is off enough to make the car not run than you will have bent valves.
There aren't a bunch of random extra parts in the bottom end. Crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump. You are looking at around 350 bucks to bore the block, deck clean block and balance bottom end, 700-750 for pistons, rings and rods, 100 for bearings, 200 for an oem oil pump, 100+100...
I would stop driving it and pull the oil pump and check it out. If you have verified that there is no oil pressure with an aftermarket gauge, than it is pretty apparent that you have an issue. It could be something as simple a loose oil pickup, or it could be a bad pump.
As long as you leave the solenoid plugged in you won't get a check engine light. Also what are you expecting to gain from a ported or aftermarket intake manifold?
Has anyone noticed that this is for a 420a and not a 4g63. The 420a DOES use an oil pan gasket. You use rtv on the lower case/girdle to block, but there a gasket for the pan. It is a molded rubber gasket.
Are you tightening them up and them moving to the next or are you leaving them loose and installing them? With a setup like that you need to thread them in but leave them loose until you get all of them in than tighten them one by one.
It has nothing to do with the thrust bearing, you are thinking of a 4g63. It is all about the bearing tang on the bearing. 95 have the tang on the same side if you sit them side by side. 96 plus has them on the opposite side.Here is a set of 95 bearings, note that the tangs are all on the same...
Just for reference, that thing will never be right even when wired correctly. You pretty much just wasted money that you could of spent towards a wideband. Narrowband gauges are very inaccurate and will bounce all over the place.
The fluid was black which means that your clutch packs are toast. You need to have the transmission rebuilt. That new converter is junk at this point also because it now has all that debris from the clutch packs in it.
Quit giving advise ok. He has a 420a car, not a 4g63 car. Different transmission totally. End clutches effect overdrive anyway. He is having a problem with first gear slipping and the transmission not shifting into second.This sounds nothing like a bad converter. With a bad converter it...
Light weight under drive pullies. They are lighter so they have less rotating mass, and they are also smaller so they turn the accessory slower and use less power from the engine. They don't make the engine produce more power, they just free up a little bit of power.