I would leave them on the car. Mask off the areas around the car. Cut the loose rubber off/blend it, rough up everything that remains, and spray. I have black spray dip ready to go. Just need to stop procrastinating.
I can find oem style knock offs of about every other clip besides these. Any ones in black that work? Trying to avoid parts stores since they tend come in small, relatively expensive, variety packs. But my ebay/etc. searches are leading me to inevitable parts store raid...Black preferred...
I can see a few problems with a cover (if it is to be used while driving, and not only when parked).Sealing against the hole water tight. Will require pressure to seal, which doesn't work well on CF hoods. I imagine rubber seals will not like the heat in that area.
Routing/drain water away...
I have a vented hood. No issue with rain other than the exhaust manifold and CHRA are rustier than usual. But not much worse than what I have seen in some non vented bays. I should have had them ceramic coated. The manifold was autozone rattle can ceramic painted, but the center section was...
I'm pretty sure I have 6 or 6.5's in my door. Its a tight fit regardless. Brand is alpine type-s line, so relatively beefy speakers.Also have 6x9 alpine type s in the rear.All sets fit perfectly fine under the panels/grills.
I deleted the igb laser reflective bar that goes under the lights. If only I knew a painter...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/should-have-bought-1gb-talon-tails-laser-tail-bar-delete.436333/
I comprehend. If you originally considered gloss, I don't think these reasons are justification for stepping down. What happens when you decide to get a real paint job on the outside of the car? Then the weakest link is the bay paint...I see absolutely no issue with a clean glossy engine...
Just rip that firewall liner off. And I would suggest not flat black. Definitely gloss black. Why? Matte black is a bi*** to clean, never really gets clean, and certainly does not wipe off or "wash off" dirt/grease easily (and there plenty of that under the hood).
This is how it is done. Sewing is an essential skill. You or someone close to you needs to be able to do it. Otherwise your tailor will be a rich mofo.
I ruined a side marker trying to use a heat gun. Oven was much simpler. Use a sheet tray and a damp towel as the base. Remember you can always put it back in the oven for more heat, it is much harder to undo melting. Try on a junk pair if you can first, its not that hard at all.
I have had this sub in 5 cars and it has pointed forward in 3 due to space constraints (3 cars without real trunks: C4 corvette, F150, Laser). I don't get any distortion at all and I cannot hear a difference between this configuration and the others where it was isolated in the trunk. This is...
I forgot to answer your High-Beam question. Bi-Xenon work like this: The cutoff for your regular lights is on a solenoid. when you turn on the high beams, the solenoid engages and retracts the cutoff, so that the beams are "unclipped". This change is virtually instant, and you can flick your...
The halos are White. The only way to get a white led is to use a yellow background. Don't ask me why or how, I don't know.Yes the H1's will practically bolt in. I think the matchbox stem was bigger so I had to whip out a dremel or file to enlarge the hole slightly. You will MAYBE need a...
BlurredTalon did a massive overhaul/retrofit with a lot of custom work. I have the H1 kit and it works great. MUCH better than oem. I think the cheapo PNP eBay housings are $100 + bulbs and have projectors in them? IDK. Then next level up is the morimoto H1. It is a simple retrofit. The...
Got it all setup. Here's the first glove-box attempt. Very inefficient use of space but whatever, it works. Next goal will be be a small form factor case so I can actually use the glove box for gloves and such.Blue board is the adjustable voltage regulator. Red board is the ignition...
GOT END CAPTURE AND POWER DOWN FUNCTIONALITY!You can now officially log headless with a raspberry pi. The button must be held for up to 5 seconds (5+ to be safe) since the program checks every 5 seconds to "see" if you pressed the button. If it was instant, it would use too many CPU...
Then start checking my guide...The guys at ecmlink have enough on thier plate. I don't see the cost benefit working out for them anytime soon on something like this.They would have to charge more than $200 for what I did for $100 and just made a guide for. I can imagine it being a lot...
This is very possible.I would recommend setting up a temporary screen to confirm everything works as desired before going headless.I got the red part done. Next I will probably try to use the ignition wire to trigger a shutdown sequence and save log sequence if it changes from +12v to 0v...
Wellll I think I got auto start taken care of...I created 3 scripts to do each function locations are here:
cd /home/pi/Desktop/ECMLink/ecmlink/beginThe 3 scripts are titled (I included the code for each under each):syncit.sh
#!/bin/sh
#sets correct usb baud rate
sleep 5
setserial...
Here is what I bought (I will assume you don't have any 'freebies') IDK why they are double listed... :idontknow:
All from amazon:This one is obvious... PI:
Raspberry Pi Model BPower Supply option:
It is either this or a regular power supply, for $7 more and lets me connect any and all USB...
This is not my work, it is sTYZ's from ecmtuning forums. I have added some explanations to make this simpler (for noobs like muself)While installing you MUST be connected to the internet!!-You will need a keyboard, mouse, ethernet connection (yes wired internet), monitor (prefer HDMI)...
This is literally my setup, out of the car for programming. Only difference is remove the HDMI cable, and plug the "yellow" composite video cable into where the green dot is. Then plug ECMlink cable where the red dot is.It is almost that simple. Then comes the programming. I am teaching...
I wouldn't dare tuning in that without a real keyboard and mouse. Mine is too finicky (its a mini key/touchpad combo). All I wanted was a way to view everything without lugging a laptop.Expense depends HEAVILY on what you already have. Dashes are optional, asterisks are mandatory...
SEE PAGE 2 for the guide for what I have up and running so far. I need someone to proof read it.Or send me a >4GB sd card and I will test my guide out on it and send it back if you want.First and foremost... Big thanks to the first person to do this and give enough details for me to copy...
The small ones are 60mm and the larger ones are...IDK. I cannot find my order forms. TRS will gladly tell you what will fit and what will not.I want to say 80mm on the larger ones, but do NOT take this for fact.
Search for hella conversion housings. The sealed beams are pretty standard size and can be replaced. The aftermarket "unsealed beams" are then retrofitted however you see fit.But yes, please do a proper retrofit (be it hacking up original housings or buying new ones) the end result is so...
I don't understand the question.If you are referring to HID projector bowls then... I never removed any bowls. I disassembled them to paint the insides (non bowl parts) red, and reassembled.If you are referring to the oem bowls... I removed them to paint them black. They had to have the...
Looks nice and it looks like you know what you are doing.I think the logos, eclipse, and sequential part are a bit too much for me. The rest looks really clean.What brand LEDs are you working with? I used phillips lumiled series and they have held up to a lot of use. (almost a year of...
My 1998 e350 clubwagon ford does this exact same thing because that piece is either worn or out of grease. It makes a deep sounding 'squeak' or a pop sound at 45* and 90* as described in the op.Since its both doors, I think its safe to rule out alignment issues.
Check your door gaps/clearance while you open and close it, you may be rubbing door to fender, which is not good for paint (I think that's what these other guys are saying).Is it both sides or only drivers side?
I'm pulling mine back off. for some upgrades. TRS recently released a shroud for the high beam location ones... I just ordered them. If they fit, They certainly have the heat tolerance necessary to run beams full time so I might actually live up to the thread title.FYI...The leds are...
I got a pm about the following:The oem harness has 3 prongs on the "car" side. 1 is common, 1 is high beam, 1 is low beam. Use a test light to confirm which is which and if common is 12v+ or ground and the same for the others...
The other end is split into 2 sides. 9006 (low-normal) and...
Hit up our supporting junkyard, miller import parts. He hooks it up big time and has EXCELLENT customer service.He is on ebay also, and of course, there are others too. IMO its not worth it to go to the JY. my local Pick and pull would bust my melon for everything. I would easily be in...
Type R is certainly worth one more tank of gas than a Type S. Save/Rake up!!!Ported boxes are great.Here's a situation in which a sealed box might be ideal:You want a little more bass than factory, you want it to be very tight and punchy, at the expense of max volume for bass. You...
buy from sonicelectronix .com. They have some of the lowest prices around. They are hassle free, ship fast, take paypal... Again they have some great prices. I get my sony bluetooth 1-din head units for all my cars from them for about $100.Amp wire and all the mess is dirt cheap. get...
You may be able to notice the difference b/t amber bulbs of 3.8w and 4.9w on a work bench with constant lighting, however, I doubt you will or others looking at your car will ever tell the difference at all. day or night. good choice.
yes, a bulb with a higher wattage rating, and without any light blocking filter (amber paint) on it will be brighter because of both of the 2 previously stated reasons.Following your logic directly:
Need signal bulbs.
Go to store
find 168, do not exist in amber
Lower watt 194s exist in both...
short answer no.watts is a measure of power. it is equal to voltage multiplied by amps. Without getting too technical, as long as you are at appropriate voltage levels, they will not blow for a while. being an incandescent filament light bulb, they will eventually wear out. lifespan is...
I believe 2 of them are a part of the FPR solenoid setup. The other is... uh I dont remember lol its been a while. All I know for sure is I have an AFPR, and I removed all emissions EGR etc..., BCS removed (since I have MBC). From my research while I eas doing those mods, all that was able to...
you will have to use stainless braided teflon hose. not fun to work with, not cheap. stick with fragola or aeroquip to avoid eminent leaks from chinese versions. Expect to pay over $100 near $200 to do this.