I used cheap nason base and upol urethane clear. I'm not sure how much your going to paint but doing a whole car in a booth/garage a air supply or good mask is mandatory. Here is my father in laws laser, 1st pic is the factory paint/primer that was good enough to primer over down to 180...
Just aircraft paint stripper, but again read to make sure it is safe. Forum below they are dealing with it and appears it is. Do you have a DA sander? I have a little 3" one I bought at Harbor Freight that I would use on something like that with 180 or 220.What is the preferred method to...
I'd stick the tip of a razor blade under the edge of one of those chips and see how easy more will chip off. If its coming off easy I'd remove it all. I believe you can use stripper on composite and fiberglass material but read before doing so. The other option would be soda blast or careful...
They may have used too fine of paper or no flex agent on the fiberglass. Pics look more like chips coming off more than anything. Wes covered it very well.
If it were me would spray a test panel and then thin some of the mix and see how much of a mist will make it flow out again. Otherwise you'd have to sand it again with 400 etc.
It's laquer thats why, you can take paint chips, mix them with laquer thinner and respray it if you wanted. It's doesn't hold up as well as a modern paint system either. Good ole days of 10 coats that's shines like crazy when buffed out. Not as dangerous to spray as urethane also.
Put some laquer thinner on a rag and wipe it off lol. A hot mix will re-flow what you painted. I've never used it but its forgiving. Some old timers on autobody forum will be able to tell you how to do it.
The dupont nason they sell at orileys isn't too bad, put a good clear over it. Red however had terrible coverage. Think I had a half gallon of red for the 1g laser, 1 gallon reduced. If it wasn't red would'be had left over. I used cheap kirker epoxy primer. Still looks nice two years...
Currently have 18" Enkei ev5s with 215/40s. Not really interested in lowering the car, but it does have a lot of clearance between fender and tire. I think these rims might be too attention getting. Would a set of stock 97 gsx rims look better? Any input welcome.
You shouldn't get bondo wet, it has talc and will soak up water and rust from below or bubble thru your paint eventually. Nothing wrong with going to to metal but if the paint is intact as in not peeling or rusting I wouldn't bother. You want to pull or pound out the dents as much as you can...
Looks like the electric blue. Take it to a good auto paint store, one that sells auto paint. They should have your color chips and variants, take them outside in the sun and match them up.
The duplicolor stuff is lacquer, it will fade fast, chip easier. Your better offer getting some cheap urethane. How far down are the chips? metal? Primer? Something was done wrong or not mixed right, wrong temp etc.
For me I sand the rock chips down to bare metal and blend them in, small rock chip will end up looking like a golf ball or bigger when blending. They are usually pits of rust if they go down past the primer. If theres no rust I'd do the spot puddy and blend like vanilla said.
160 will show thru the paint. There are also 2 types of paper, the newer grade has a p in front like p600, which is close to 400(cami) and is what you want to use before base, metallic and black take finer usually. If a panel is peeling I'd take all the clear off that whole panel, water...
As long as the clear is not coming off you can/have to sand it for other paint to stick. The laser i'm doing now was peeling so I stripped it all off to base and undercoats. My whole car is in primer because I was also worried about all the red matching. I took it a step farther and put high...
If you car is all one color after the primer skip the sealer, just another chance to get junk in your work. Check your tech sheets about the recoat time for your primer. If you wait too long you might have to scuff it all so another coat will stick.I agree go over it with 600, are you...
No, thats actually my car. I didn't know if it was a knockoff or not like everything else the previous owner installed. I bought a set of stockers, still debating on pulling them out or not.
Thanks for the tips. The outer part has some sort of rivet, the louvers are bolted in still. If I wasn't worried about the paint matching I would tape over them:shhh:
How do you remove the side vents behind the door? They seem to have a pop type rivet holding the louvers and screws behind them. I don't want to break them trying to pry them off.