I'm working on trying to make these happen on my end.Questions for everyone:1) Does anyone know what Boston's 4th mount and tab used to cost? 2) Would most people prefer a solid mount or a urethane bushed version? I'm not sure I want to run large batches of each. 3) Is it preferred to...

Update!!! The team at Boostin Performance finally got some CV shafts and a driveshaft squared away. They recently got everything installed just in time for World Cup Finals in Maryland. This thing looks tough as nails under their car!!! Hoping we can see them best their 6.98 pass from...

Hey guys, I spoke with Boston Hatcher about these. He told me that he has shifted his focus to other things and has decided not to produce more of these. He offered me the CAD drawings to make these, but he has yet to come through on that e-mail. If he ever sends me the drawings, I'll be...

Meanwhile 3/S guys are busy swapping to the 4G engine because 4G63 > 6G72. :)

I have no clue what they're using.I do have a few torsion sway bars here though. If you have a way to calculate the rate you need, I probably have you covered. I have bushings and a few torsion arms too. I've been wanting to develop a DSM torsion kit for years but just haven't found the time.

Good question. My jig has locating provisions to add a DSM-style sway bar to this. This subframe, however, is going on a car that has a frame-mounted torsion style sway bar, so nothing needed to be added to this subframe for it. And of memory serves me, they have the sway bar's end link...

4 years later, short little update. This prototype subframe has been on Red Demon V1 and has been to a 7-flat in the 1/4 and has been over 200MPH many, many times. Has survived an accident that junked the chassis. And is still holding like a champ on the V2 car.:hellyeah:

DSS can handle the custom driveshaft as well.Thank you! We'll continue working at growing product availability for this platform.

DSS can handle custom axles the same way they do for guys running the 3000GT rearend. You tell them what rearend and hubs you're running and the distance between the rearend and hubs on each side, and they can whip up a custom set.

It's not on the website yet. We're waiting for the Red Demon to beat on it for a while before offering them up for sale. We have yet to come up with a price as well.

One more that shows all of the data points for each piece. :-)

Hey all! I just wanted to show some pics of a project we've been working on this year. This subframe kit will allow you to bolt in a Ford Super 88, 8.8" IRS rearend into any 2G DSM. The 8.8 that we chose to build around comes from the 15+ Mustang. These are strong rearends, available in...

Good stuff! My geared head lathe is about the same size.Something to consider for a shop without 3-phase; A replacement 1-phase motor is often cheaper than a good phase converter. Especially for these lower HP motors.

Nope, traditional dab method and no pulse. Medium bevel and a single pass.

Haven't taken weld pics or video in a while, but this was my most recent one. Gotta keep this thread alive. :-)#weldeverydamnday

General rule of thumb with winch sizing is 1.5-2x vehicle weight. I ended up going with a 9500lb winch on my trailer (which mostly is used on DSMs) because I also wanted to be able to winch up 1/2-ton trucks too. That being said, a 4500 lb winch is right at the minimum recommendation for a...

No updates. We need to gett his jig drawn in my Bendtech software so that we can start efficiently produce these. We're doing this for the rear subframes right now, so this will follow later this year.

I burned up my Dynasty right after getting this tacked up. So I welded it all over at a buddy's shop with his welder. I didnt even pay attention to the cup and gas flow. The lighting was terrible in there though, so I struggled a bit.I typically do all of mt DC welding with a ceramic FUPA...

I'm not a big 'hallmark holiday' kinda guy, but if it gives me an opportunity to be a thoughtful gentleman with my welder, then I'm game. :)Not sure on how long it took. A couple hours each night, and probably 4 nights. Something like that.

I made this last week for my GF. All 304 stainless.

Thanks man! :hellyeah:

Ohh, gotcha. Yes, always flat position on tubing ends.

Both, lol. With my hand, but also with my positioner. But thank you. :-)Flat position?

Thanks man. This was my first time welding this diameter (1.625") so I pretty much had to guess on heat and speed settings. Also this tube has two bends in it so that complicated things as well. Haha

The first weld on a 1g tubular trailing arm set coming to market VERY soon. You heard it first here. ;-)www.facebook.com/volkmetalcraft

Cool idea to make it fit the battery tray.

There's nothing that thick on these cars. I don't have an exact thickness, but it's more like .040" thick. And in some places, several layers of that pinch welded together for strength.

First post of 2019!!! And in March? Come on guys, let's see some welding!!!Here's one from building 2G rear LCA's this past weekend:

gijoe985 - Got a pic? Is the old line cut flush? You have to be careful with heat on these as if it's gets too hot, it can release the solder that holds the OE tube in place.I've never tried to reattach a tube to simulate the OE configuration, but I've welded on plenty of AN bungs on them...

I'm a fan of Race Ready cut-outs. They do use poly gears, but I've never stripped one. They seal very well and also warranty the seal, whereas many others don't. And their wiring and switch are very high quality as well. They are nicer than Allstar and Quick Time.My only complaints with...

Jon Beach Racing kept breaking Allstar pit sockets. So I recently gutted this last broken one and noticed they were using thin wall mild steel and they always break right on the HAZ. So, I rebuilt this one using heavy wall 4130. Turned out pretty nice and I'm sure this one will hold up to the...

I've been playing around with logos lately. All stainless so far. I did my logo and also a friend's logo for her photography business. There's certainly a learning curve with this (I'm not an artsy guy at all, lol). Looking forward to getting better with it as I do more of these down the road.

MIG is ok for a mild steel cage. If 4130 moly, you'll need to TIG it in.

If you're set on buying the MIG from Farm and Fleet, spring the extra $50 on this one: https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/939855-hobart-handler-130-wire-feed-mig-welder.htmlHobart makes a decent MIG welder for the hobbyist and this one has better heat control compared to that Lincoln...

Accuracy or bust!I've worked with .03x stainless one time and I'll tell you fitment MUST be tight. Heat control is far more critical and filling gaps is damn near impossible.Nice work, Scott!

Does the Diversion 180 have balance control? In my limited aluminum welding experience, when it gets hot and sooty and wont puddle properly, it's due to insufficient cleaning action. Too much penetration and not enough cleaning to blast through the oxide layer.

By 'again', I think he's referring to not being able to recommend an exact tungsten without know exactly which welder the OP is using. For example, if the OP has an inverter welder (and it looks like he does), then your advice to run green tungsten is bad advice. Same for balling the tip.

Around here, different shops paint different colors. There's really no standard for gas type vs cylinder color. My pure argon fills are either gray or maroon depending on which shop I exchange at.

Just got done welding on a 1g DSM fuel tank for the first time. Not too shabby.

The jig is about 30% done. I just need to get the LCA group buy finished and then I'll be all over it.

Thanks, Leon!Compared to the OE subframe (aside from the obvious difference of holding a 300GT rearend), it offers a few advantages. #1 is weight savings. I can build a subframe to save 24-46 lbs depending on options. #2 is that it offers better rearend bracing. The rearend is...

I've heard the same... Two guys on FB said it just didn't fit. Hopefully they get those issues worked out!

No, they were not. I don't know what ever became of the prototype set either.

What size cup are you running? And what is the regulator set at?Did you make any other changes? New tank, new back cap, etc?The worst gas lenses I've seen weren't great for a flood cup, but worked fine with a traditional cup. There's not a lot of ways to screw up a gas lens.

I built my positioner from scratch. Homebrew style.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/homemade-welding-positioner-build.511427/

Some pics from this past weekend. Welding up DSM LCA's.I tried to get some video (WTAT style), but they didn't turn out as cool as I thought they would. I didn't realize until after, but Jody must shield the camera to be able to see what's going on at the puddle. I'll try again next time. :-)

Thanks man.You still can, and you'll certainly save money. Even though I built this myself, I still have around $700 invested (the chuck was $180 alone). It's not cheap, but I did save a healthy chunk of change and had fun building it too. I've seen the wheel/drill positioners and they get...

Thanks Tim!

I just found a couple more pics. This is a steady rest I made. It is positionable to be anywhere that it needs to be. There are 7 different bosses welded in the base to be able to move this steady rest around.And these are my first welds with it. Done just a couple days ago. A little...