ROFL it was nice, worked the way it should. if your engine is healthy then do it. but you will be very dissapointed with a 35 shot and even a 50 shot. i was dissapointed with a 55 shot... 75 shot was real nice tho, i just wanted the power all the time sooo boost it was.

built bottom end, and some SS valves to be safe. but dont run a dry shot, run a wet shot

about 800psi or so and its effectiveness drops off.ya like he said, once you get down that low you get a lot of compressed air coming out instead of nitrous. 250psi wouldnt work to well imo

i think its a good thing you got to this before anyone else ;)

here look this is where im at. how do you reach the nuts on the forward bolts, to tighten them down, when i drill through that black plate to mount it?

you would be high strung too if every person with a factory hair dryer acted like you didnt have a chance in the world to beat a semi in a race, told you to sell your car everytime you ask a performance question, and other shit we put up with.

just do it yourself its not too hard. here $535 shipped: http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/zex-82021my install guide: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130336

heres a pic of mine. DSMJim has told me that it has to be mounted to metal, so that there isnt quite track legal. my question is for guys who have it mounted right above where it is now(right behind the seat) is there anything under there that could be damaged by drilling holes there? i had my...

think about it, you will be defeating the purpose of that intercooler. the nitrous is extremely cold when it comes out, and it will lower the intake temp lower then the outside air temp. now it goes through the intercooler, and the intercooler heats it up to the outside air temp. thus defeating...

in a simple answer, no. you dont need to, its only 4* and if the ecu sees something wrong, it will pull the timing back itself. infact i think my timing might even be a little advanced now with my 75 shot cuz ive sprayed it without going to the other un-tuned file on my afc, and i havent had any...

BWAHAHAHAHA that was the funniest and most original damn thing ever!!! did you think of that one all by yourself??? wow your amazing! :thumbdowndo us all a favor and pull your mouth off of the compressor outlet of your turbo, it seems to have already blown enough hot air in your head...

its safer because it adjusts the fuel to the nitrous pressure... or the other way around i cant remember, and there shots arent as powerful as they claim... not off by alot, but enough to make it seem like there 75 shot is safer then the others

hey sorry i never responded to your IM... been busy..heres where i got mine, and its the cheapest i found for a new one. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/zex-82021thats rediculous... thats like me saying "ive seen a few 4g63 turbo dsm's crankwalk... its just a piece of shit engine...

What the hell is nitrous?

everytime i go to napa or car quest, they always say 6 is stock? :confused: well for the NT at least

Jim, i think you have that backwards. the higher the number, the colder. so 6(stock nt) to a 7 would be 1 range colder :thumb:

yea it does have a wide range. my problem is i got a CEL for low TPS sensor voltage. and it idled funny. i unplugged the zex line from the tps line and it cleared up for now, but the zex still sprayed at WOT, even with the low voltage

by reset do you mean recalibrate it? hmm... i dunno im having problems with the tps part of it too.

haha i know, and ive been wanting to re-mount it on the metal part thats right behind the seat, but lazyness will never let me get around to it. oh well ill get it done someday, but it seems to be holding up for now.

i wouldnt use Zex install guide for toilet paper lol. that thing was the most vague instructions ive ever seen. "tap into TPS lead. Tap into fuel line. tap 12v power source." it doesnt help you with what wires need to be tapped and what not. i called zex and asked which wire i needed to tap for...

how much pressure is in your bottle when you put 12 lbs in a 10 lb bottle? arent you afraid of blowing that safety valve on the bottle?

i dont think you could be more wrong. you want to run high octane gas, but thats talking pump gas. 100 octane is overkill. 92 is about the limit. you shouldnt go any lower, you need the higher octane to prevent detonation. the air fuel mixture wants to combust early due to high cylinder...

all of the gas stations only hold 91 as its highest? thats weird ive never seen lower then 93 here. DSMJim, would he use the 91 and add that NOS octane booster? that could be cheaper.

no he is saying 91 is a bit low to run with nitrous. you want atleast 92-93.

how much does that 100 cost you? im not to sure, you should probably ask dsmjim, but you might be able to get away with 91, and if not im sure you could just put one of those bottles of NOS octane booster in with your gas.

whoa underkill and over kill at the same time. the reason why he was worried about internals was because he was already running alot of boost, and the nitrous adds about 50hp more then the shot says it will on a turbo car. he will feel the difference with a 35, or should at least. with you, 50...

why get 660's? the wet kit delivers the proper amount of fuel, and his boost will actually be turned down due to boost creep with nitrous.

by 150 wet kit do you mean a 150 shot??? if so, you should probably start the "Im retarded and blew up my car with too much NAWWWZZZ" fund to buy new internals. if thats not what you mean then please explain.I thought the blow down tubes were only like $35? the blow down tube is necessary...

i thought you would just be calling him a ricer because he was modding an NT, cuz you seem to be an NT hater, but that shit is just damn funny. :laugh: why did he sell it for only $550?

no i'd like to know what made him a rice? did he have some crappy body kit? huge park bench wing? what was it?

why was the previous owner a "ricer"?

didnt you have a 95 NT talon that you were asking on some things to do to it?EDIT: yep here it is http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137956

do i have to go get some links to some threads in the NT section asking about what to mod on your NT?

oh ok sorry i misunderstood what you were saying. no i dont think the MAP will give the correct fuel, i was just saying that it would see a difference in the air pressure. and i dunno why anyone would run a dry kit.

ya your right, thanks for correcting me on something ive seen first hand. the nitrous cools the air temedously, which makes it more dense. i watched my S-AFC manifold pressure reading jump up when i initiated the nitrous.

first off, we dont have airflow meters, we have MAP sensors(hes a 2gnt). the MAP sensor can see the pressure in the intake manifold go up. but if you have a wet kit, the proper amount of fuel is added, so your a/f ratio should be fine.DSMJim, im sending you a PM, im having some problems with...

i wouldnt quite call a chirp a traction problem. a split second squeek isnt gonna cost me a huge time loss. and my tires dont even chirp every time. sometimes they dont but for the most part they do. plus, DSMJim i believe said he was running a 100shot, while im only running a 75 shot, and the...

Are you Joking? Sorry i dont have a big bad GSX, but .1-.2 seconds is a huge gain for an NT. and it will take more off then that. the lower the gear is that you spray, the faster you accelerate, plain and simple. and if you spray in first, not only do you accelerate faster then any other gear...

well, as someone who has a FWD and does spray in first, i say do it because your wheels will chirp a little bit but thats it. just flip the switch when you get to 4k rpms or so.by the way he said it was in regular weather not rain or ice, and i dont believe it.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148968this was just discussed. its about a 1g, but same engine, and both turbos are similarily undersized

there is something extremely wrong if your a nearly stock NT and your wheels spin anytime you pass 4k rpms at WOT. unless its raining or something, in that case mine does too. but i dont think that turbo guys spin like that either so you have some problems. and the reason to spray in first and...

you must have the worlds fastest NT if you spin your tires when at WOT above 4k rpms in first gear. or you have the worlds crappiest tires. there is no way your tires automatically spin when you past 4k rpms. no way. unless your saying if you launch then but i dont think thats what your saying...

most kits have a WOT switch to activate it, and with a WOT switch that switch would be redundant

hes talking about an NT car, but more importantly about the use of iridiums with nitrous. your car would be a nitrous car then

i dont think iridiums are nitrous friendly. plus there a waste of money.

ya you loose some traction. when i hit the nitrous on at 4k in first ill screech the wheels a bit. but it is an amazing boost of power.

spray that bi*** in first. i usually start around 4krpms. but im warning you, if you spray in first, you will not be able to start spraying in 2nd later on. you will be dissapointed in the power gain if you spray in second. first is insane.

i dont know about your bottom end being able to handle it, but ditch the iridium plugs and get regular old colder NGK copper ones if your gonna spray

nitrous isnt as dangerous as people think. you wont blow your motor if you use it right. lower your boost to compensate for creep, and you will get a nice power boost. plus, the refills are only $30.

ya i was spraying on no fuel controll either. actually i still am, when i spray i change to my other data file which has no correction for spraying. im planning on doing some dyno runs in the near future to tune for nitrous, but untill then i will be running without fuel controll. i am however...