But I’d send it off to ecmtuning and let them figure out the ecu problems. They might be able to give you a better idea of why it’s doing it. I know over never seen anyone go through ecu’s like this. Lol

Bad grounds, check the ones under the kick panel on the passenger side.

From my research on this your should just follow the threads on turboing a 4g64 spyder. Because you have to do everything the same. It’s easy just take you time and ask as many questions as you need. :thumb:

Okay so I can’t find a single coil for a 2g 4g64 specifically. Here is the coil that’s on the car now.Now I found that a coil from a 97-04 Montero has the exactly same looking coil. So my question is will it work? I think it will because it looks exactly the same the plug is the same etc. but I...

But I’d start with recirculating the bov and test for boost leaks. Just get a hose the right diameter and connect it from the intake snorkel to the bov.

Does the car have a wideband and boost gauge?

Yeah this time of the year completely blows. So you get off work and the sun is already going down or is down. :beatentodeath:

Yeah try turning it bc it’s supposed to have 5volts on the signal wire.

Could be slowly on it way out, they control the spark so it’s a good possibility. But check the crank and the cam signal. Just back probe the signal wire and turn the engine over with a 1/2” ratchet.

Yes unless you have a 1g cas that does both.

the crank position sensor signal wire and you should see a fluctuating signal of 0 and 5 volts.

Did your try to test your crank sensor?

Then yes your bov is leaking or not closing fast enough. Try adjusting it.

Every car that has a maf like ours need to have the bov recirculated for the same problems your having. I understand it’s ran fine befor like this but it’s not the right way.

It could be but when you let off the gas and is messed up that’s because metered air is going missing when the bov opens instead of going back into the intake.

Yeah that’s probably your problem. Because I know when people have the same issue you describingits because of the bov not being recirculated. The metered air is all of the sudden not going into the intake when the bov vents. It’s weird that it didn’t do it befor, but you should only vent the...

Is your bov recirculated?

Or if you want something factory looking in my opinion this looks nice and out of the way.

If you don’t want any gauges in the car what you could do is temporarily put one in get it tuned and then take it out. Or put the boost gauge in the glove box, me personally I’d put it in the glove box.

Yes that round can is the Evan canister. Yeah not sure why some people do that I’ve always just capped it off like the diagram above. And for the factory boost controller I wouldn’t use it. It’s cheap and doesn’t allow for to much control. The best and cheapest I’ve found to control boost...

Now as far as the way to block off the egr valve there two ways of doing it. 1 is a cheap/free way if you have a soda can or something that you can cut and sandwich in between the intake manifold and the egr valve. Or option two go buy a actual block off plate and throw the valve away. I’ve done...

Lol that’s why I posted this way up top. Yeah get the egr block off plate and be done with it. This bottom diagram shows you exactly what to block off in red and shows you what to run as far as vacuum lines. As far as all the sensors are still plugged in electrically you’ll be fine.

So quick question @Raab1 why not clean up all the vacuum line and delete them?

@Raab1 yeah nothing goes to that nipple. Also yes they came circular also so your good so far! :thumb:

@Tanro yeah I showed him that earlier and he said it’s not working so that’s the problem.

Test it Unplug the TPS and measure the sensor itself with an ohmmeter. Should read between 3.5k-6.5k ohms between pin 1 (where the green/yellow wire connects) and pin 4 (black wire connects) - measure the sensor pins, not the wires. Then between pin 2 (brown/red) and pin 4 (black), and also...

If you want to test your crank sensor, you need to disconnect the MPI fuse in your car, or disconnect the ignition coil connectors from your ignitor or your coilpacks. You do not want ignition or fuel injection modes working as you manually crank the engine over. The signal wire should be BLUE...

Get you a new bov like a 1g or a Greddy. That way you can recirculate it back to the intake. Other wise it will not run right while driving.

Yeah just change out that isc.

- Barometric pressure sensor: With key on, pin 2 should be 3.7-4.3V at 0' altitude and 3.2-3.8V at 3937' altitude. - Air temp sensor: see attached picture.

Backprobe terminal 4 of the connector with the positive probe of the voltmeter and connect the negative to the ground. Turn the key to on but do not start the engine if the voltemeter does not read around 12v. If so check the circuit back to the MFI relay and fusible link.Backprobe terminal...

You shouldn’t be able to wiggle your maf connector. Did you ever replace the connector, It’s supposed to clip on.

Glad I could help! :thumb:

Test the isc.

Do a leak down test that will give you a better answer than guessing. Oh and a cheap bore scope.

@chrysler kid yeah I’m still in the process of getting it running. So I’m slowly going over everything and cleaning it up. But I guess I’ll get a new coil pack now that I found the problem. Haha

Lol so I came out to look at the connectors and stuff. I mixed the crank angle sensor plug with the ignition coil pack plug. Ughhh

so installed a fuel pump today in my car 99 gst with 4g64 sohc engine. Well I turned the key to the on position and after a few minutes there was smoke coming from the coil pack but only one coil. Is it just a bad coil or what?

Well that’s why I suggested the o2 sensor for the stuttering problem. Glad it fixed that problem.

If you get the gst ecu and injectors it should be all plug and play.

Let us know!

Yeah I forgot the 420a has regulator in the ecu.

Check the plug. If the alternator isn’t seeing a draw then it will not charge the battery.

With the car running or off?

What was it putting out? And make sure the plug on the alternator is pushed all the way on.

Nvm I forgot they don’t have a relay. Haha but if you have a volt meter jump it and test the wires coming from the alternator.

Have you checked the relay?

Like I said it’s built into the alternator.

How did you test the alternator charge wire?