I am having the same issue, and its also eating coolant now, and obvious signs like steam train exhaust...but I am going to try the method of gassing the pedal while the coolant cap is off just for kicks...to see if it pressurizes and sprays all over the engine compartment. Its only full of...

Seems the vibration can be different from car to car, depending on your setup...engine balanced? No? a good harmonic balancer like Fluidamper may even help to offset some of the BSE and poly mounts but a light flywheel can probably contribute to make things worse...lots of variables here...

Head was rebuilt with bigger cams and also the bottom end was rebuilt before I purchased it. I bought it 2 years ago, non running condition. I replaced many sensors, alternator, etc..and I have been constant on the oil changes. The oil currently does not smell like coolant, and it is a normal...

Hmmm...kinda hard to tell.... according to the pics, it's the 'Worn' description...upper left corner....with poor cold starting (YES) and poor MPGs...(YES)...But WHATS UP WITH THE NUMBER 3 CYLINDER??

Just changed the plugs at almost 30k, NGK BPR6, what do these tell me?? It's been running ok, but need to top off the oil and the coolant every week...

AHHHHH HAAAAA! THAT SUCKS! looking at your photo, it looks like the timing belt is stil intact, but extremely thin? Whats up? Mine is getting worn also, probabably not going to last much longer...but it looks much better than yours! How did you drive it so long that way? with a 1/2 inch...

:applause: That post was worthy of a screenshot!! But those FP manifolds are NOT cheap....

I have a 2g exhaust manifold in my storage....I also have a stainless eBay tubular header on my car, been on there for many years...seems to work fine with my 16g turbo...however, I also have a couple exhaust studs broken and stripped...might have something to do with stainless headers...

Man you DSM wisemen are freaking incredible. The issue was fully diagnosed....without seeing or hearing the car in person, or by video...you recommended the proper procedure to resolve the issue....spot on....and it was fully resolved in a matter of minutes, slam dunk! That's a testament to...

When idling, the voltage tested at the battery should be approx 14.3 volts on a 2g. This shows the alternator is working properly.

Hi Seth, I just saw your post and did some searching around. The IPS part # is MD614216. I just found a couple of new ones online and damn they are expensive. It's better to post a ISO (in search of) or want-to-buy ad on the classifieds here, or Facebook marketplace and you should be able to...

Try to find an old wire harness and use the knock sensor connector off that. Maybe someone will sell you one from an old harness that is not complete. It's difficult to find a new female knock sensor connector. Most of the ones on eBay are actually fuel injector connectors and they don't fit...

Oil pressure switch for dummy light: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pressure-Sender-Switch-Fits-Acura-Dodge-Ford-Lexus-Mitsubishi-Kia-Mazda-/172882861582?pageci=df4557ea-a2ab-40e5-a04a-05afb5264c4f2g knock sensor is getting hard to find. The Evo knock sensor is not exactly the same. It may be...

Yes unfortunately that's the problem once the extractor bit breaks off in the stud you are screwed there's no way to get it out because the metal on the screw extractor bit is super tempered and very hard. That's the worst thing that could have happened.... Maybe get an extra thick copper...

When you first turn the key on does the oil light come on? If not, then it is not connected to the proper wire. I would try that brown (yellow) one for the dummy light.As for the ECU, aaaaahhhhhhhHHHHHH WELL.... It's possible he had ecmlink and a speed density setup but who knows.... If you...

Looks like yours has a black tee connector where someone spliced another line into the oil sending unit wire. The yellow/red stripe becomes a blue wire after the black connector. This is added on. It may have been a wire for an aftermarket gauge at one time? It looks poorly spliced into the...

I have a spare 1g throttle body...pm me if interested and for pics

If you have a bypass plate installed which blocks the FIAV only, then there shouldn't be any air coming out of the FIAV coolant nipples. Right? Did this result from a boost leak test? Seems odd...

Gotcha thanks. I guess I have the bypass plate on mine then. Along with a new ISC, it works great. Just a couple minutes of rough idling in the morning until it warms up...

There are two kinds of plates. One is a block off plate for the FIAV only. And the other is a block off plate for BOTH including the ISC. I don't understand what you mean by bypass plate.They're both installed between the lower throttle body assembly and the main throttle body.

You want the plate that still allows operation of the ISC idle control solenoid. It will block off the FIAV in the lower throttle body, but still allows function of the ISC. If you use a total block off plate for both, then you may have other issues with proper idle or stalling.

Just use a female electrical wire connector they will clip on to the dummy light switch and sending unit nicely. Like one that comes in a butt splice terminal connector pack.

I'm referring to the exhaust port of the blow off valve where the air comes out and you hear that swooshing sound when you let off the gas...it's about 1 1/4 inches in diameter...that should have a hose on it that is connected to the intake so all that excess air goes back into the intake pipe...

Then that may be your problem! Get a hose and connect the exhaust port of the blow off valve back to the intake and that should help correct it. And maybe open up the BISS idle air screw for a little more air to raise the idle

These eclipses were designed at the factory to have recirculating blow-off valves. All of the air inthe intake manifold is metered through the mass air flow sensor and it will affect the air-fuel ratios especially at deceleration and idle...it can cause stalling. But I don't think that is the...

I see a blow off valve venting to the open atmosphere....

It's all good just trying to help you out brother! Since your car is the 3g you might get more replies in a more model-specific forum. You can come out of the corner now. Cheers!

Moderators, starting with post #8, can you make a new thread to help Widgmaster out for more replies from readers to remedy the issue thanks

Fast idle is usually because of too much air getting past the throttle plate somewhere. Incorrectly adjusted BISS, faulty FIAV, faulty ISC, leaky throttle bushings, vacuum leaks elsewhere etc...this is also what I've been chasing for a couple months.

Damn... You've had that car for 21 years as your only vehicle??? Wow...I just changed to the NGK bpr6es from some Autolites and I can say it's a noticeable improvement....

Does it have a Fast Idle Air Valve blockoff plate on the throttle body? That's the cold start valve actuated by the coolant temperature. If it's defective or blocked off, that would explain the difficult cold starts.After the engine is warmed up to temperature, if it's still won't idle...

Be careful not to confuse the ISC solenoid idle control motor with the FIAV. The FIAV does not have a plug. It is an internal valve in the throttle body behind the little brass freeze plug activated by the coolant to give a fast idle when cold. To disengage it is to bypass it with a blockoff...

Figuring out mechanical problems is a logical process of elimination. One can miss something if they operate under the assumption that 'the car ran fine before, so it cannot be X', or 'X' was just replaced, so it cannot be 'X'... I've had gaskets, throttle bodies and sensors replaced only to...

Wouldn't it be prudent to do a simple block test with the test liquid to determine if there is a head gasket issue instead of guessing and trying to figure out how to remedy something without knowing exactly what the underlying issue is to begin with?

I remember that you had a coolant leak in the throttle body awhile back in the thread...and you have a bypass plate of some kind...I assume it is the one that blocks out the coolant controlled fast idle valve correct? Then no more coolant is cycling through the throttle body now correct? But...

WTF. OMGIm not an expert...but I don't think so..... I wonder if it could be a bad FIAV cold air valve...maybe BLT pressure is leaking past the FIAV valve into the cooling system somehow? Or a head gasket issue?

Get an Odyssey battery

Yeah I hear ya! It's just not right if your exhaust, wastegate and BOV are quiet! I mean, people gotta hear ya coming...and GOING lol

I'm under the impression that turbos don't really need back pressure....just get it out fast and efficiently as you can...I don't think a full exhaust would improve the power over a hood exhaust. For a turbo engine...but a full exhaust would sound a little quieter!

I've had similar bad experience with a braided clutch line when converting Civic automatic transmission to a stick shift....the factory hard lines are best....

Wow there's supposed to be a bracket for these? Mine's missing completely then! And so's my knock sensor lolJust got my new knock sensor yesterday...now I need to find the wires in the harness that were cut off...to wire it back up

You need to recirculate the blow off valve back into the intake pipe, and then make adjustments to the BISS idle air screw to compensate. The turbo eclipses are not meant to vent to blow off into the atmosphere because that is metered air that the computer is factoring into the air fuel ratio.

Does the ISC motor move both ways?? I wouldn't overlook a bad driver in the ECU.Did ya check the movement of the ISC in/out and also for weak spots in the movement? Seems a little strange it always goes to zero position or maybe its fighting a throttle stop that's set slightly too far...

If your BISS screw is all the way in, then something's still not right. More vacuum leaks maybe?... Have you adjusted the throttle stop plate...? I've been messing with my BISS setting and throttle stop setting for a couple months....Unfortunately I don't have DSM link yet....I believe the...

120 seems really low, i would recommend a cylinder leak down test...that will show where the problem is...a leaky head gasket could cause a misfire under boost...had the same thing happen to my '87 Toyota turbo pickup...I ended up doing a coolant block test with the liquid and it showed...

Where did you end up leaving the TPS setting? At .063?

I'll second the correct voltage should be approx .063v... the chiltons/haynes manuals may not always be accurate....try it and see if that corrects your surging problem

Two things that came to mind reading your last post... If the biss screw is all the way in that's a sign of too much air getting past the throttle plate or a vacuum leak somewhere. Hopefully these have all been remedied with your boost leak testing. So now if you have the vacuum leaks fixed...

Regarding the idle surging, usually high idle is caused from too much air getting past the throttle plate somewhere. Check for hidden vacuum leaks, incorrectly set throttle stop screw (too far open)?Another possibility may be that the IPS (idle position sensor) is not set correctly. This is...

I found the most critical thing is to locate and eliminate all vacuum leaks first. And then make sure the butterfly throttle plate is set properly. Hopefully your throttle plate stop screw is still set at the factory setting. However, if you have added a front mount intercooler or a larger...