Hmm, I think I remember you a couple years ago. Yup- I remember. You know, its kinda tacky for OPs to be selective with the advice given to them and be a whiney nitpicker.And FYI- No such thing as pure English, JACKAZZ. No way is *the third most common native language* ever going to be pure...

And this is the wiring thing I was thinkin bout: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-cooling-fan-wiring.426830/But, earlier you implied you weren't using the rad thermo sensor so that's that then.*holy crap you gotsa lotta mods!

It's been a while since I've worked on mine. But this what I'm talkin bout yo...

Another thing, I believe the thermostat has a little air bleed device that must face a certain way... Along with correct side up. Some people drill a hole instead...

+1 air.Engine cold, take rad cap off then runer' till just about boiling. Pressure test afterwards and pressure check cap, still amazes me new caps can be off 2psi+...To rule out core airflow issues, idle car until starts overheat, then spray down rad with garden hose etc.. Off top my head...

Someone correct me here butThe fans on a 1g are controlled directly from the sensor and relays, no computer involved. On a 2g however the computer does everything- watches temps via two wire sensor and commands relays on/off. Maybe the 2g computer doesn't like the 1g sensor. Plus 1g sensor is...

Mods I meant pertaining to cooling fans. Like any cutting to fit, weird wiring, idk.Anyway your setup could use some intervention IMO. Since they are aftermarket (possibly ebay?) fans I would check em out... Can you check amp draw? Rule thumb via Spal is 10amps per 1000cfm. I don't know stock...

No ducting, added core and questionable fans...What is your fan setup. Brand, spec, amps, mods, etc

I use bahco for this sorta thing. Under the hood of your gm truck I bet there will be broken exhaust manifold bolts. Mr Bahco gets them right out. And best. adjustable wrench. ever. And it's industrial Snapon with the corrected pricing. SOBS...

Download caps/asa. Has every single p/n for your car. Then shoot jnztuning an email with all the part numbers and they will gladly help.. http://mitsubishilinks.com Donating a few bucks would be nice, I know I did.I hate hardware store fasteners... They always seem to be different size socket...

Please, please keep this updated. I am working on something involving two pusher fans, hood latch delete and keeping the crash bumper+condensor. I got a bit ahead of myself with redesigning the rad/bumper support and with my limited body/frame experience, I could use some inspiration. Haven't...

Tab doesn't need be stronger FYI, reach in the door and manually push that rod down, it doesn't take much to actuate the assembly.Just take a dremel with a sanding drum or whatever and grind down the coil body diameter pretty good. Reassemble a couple times until you like the amount of pull it...

I recommend modding that spring. A stronger tab works but a lighter handle pull is much much nicer, not to mention less strain on the plastic hinges.A little late but this guide is nice http://rcaz.com/rcaz/sub%20indexes/eclipse_door_handle_removal/index.htm

When there is not enough travel to actuate the main assembly, then the metal tab the linkage attaches to is bent upward (on the door latch itself), and over time the point at which the door opens becomes higher and higher in pulling up the handle. Eventually the plastic portion of the handle...

A simple available voltage check is all that's needed.$5 gets you a good one, 90% people don't know how to fully use a basic DMM, let alone one over $100. The common cheap digital ones are great, and if you don't like the reading you get, you can chuck that sob across the room for fun.

Well you said something about the battery light, so the fuse powering both the L and S terminals (red wire and black/yellow wire) is good. Also covers the connection to alt because the light comes on, (alt grounds the bulb). Red wire could be cut somewhere but even if, the black yellow wire is...

That's inacurate. General purpose LEDs should never be power hogs, and why would there be a 'power supply'. You mean + & - 12v leads and a resistor? However some LEDs like the whole Cree q4 business can draw quite a current, but their efficiency and output is also high.I'd put my money...

I'm not going to sit here and battle this stupid shit out like you would like me to, because a, this is auto101, b you're rude and disrespectful and frankly I have a job which I care far more about. So good luck.

First off, alternators should not be relied upon to charge a dead battery, only to top off and be the primary power provider for electrical demands so the battery isn't taxed.Second, dsm1g90 is right. This practice has been obsolete for a long long time. However it's not for the regulators...

Op car is AWDForgot to mention for checking driveshaft carrier; hold the brake and stab the gas a few times, maybe have someone watch under car if they can see from side, if driveshaft is hopping under load.

Very good troubleshooting OPOff the top of my head if the suspect is cv joint, hold wheel all way to the left or right and back up, the noise should be very clear if cv.Normally though when I hear someone explaining a 'thump' sound I immediately suspect driveshaft carrier bearing. Quick...

Is it possible improper gapping procedure could cause that. IE, prying between center and side electrode.

Oh by the way OP http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+seafoam+an+engineYeah I generally stay away from sales reps and the 'snake oil' people, but this guy brought pizza and pepsi. Just so happened he was doing his oil thing (we have a few BG setups- the gas fuel system cleaner setup, the diesel...

PV from AZ said it pretty good IMO, except for the whole MAF spray thing, that don't work on Karman vortex sensors.BG products work very well- at least the fuel injector stuff. The rep comes to our shop every few weeks here and shows us new stuff. One particular time he borrowed a can of...

Cat vs no cat sir. Thanks for clearing that up.

I would not go straight to a gate. First try getting a hiflow cat welded in somewhere and that should cover it. You won't suffer any practical power losses, it just ups the exhaust velocity to where it barely approaches backpressure, hence no significant power loss.Yes I've ran both. No...

Heh.. Observant one, starfawkes isBenefit o doubt, he's reallllllly a helpful guy that has some good advice and knowledge. Kind too- just peep that avatar. What? Na, he wouldn't fluff threads to get around the whole membership system, that's crazy!

You know where the cam sensor is located? On a 95-96 it's on the drivers side behind the rearmost intake camshaft gear/sprocket, with a 3 wire triangular connector.97-99 is on the passenger side of intake cam, pretty easy to spot. Check the area for damage.And go to the classifieds to buy a...

This thread is nuts. Subscribed.Upload the video already.

Interesting. Normally the fuse pops (alt is protected) unless you're super quick with the battery cables and not blow the fuse.

This thread reminds me of starter cables being switched. Just a feeling. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/stupid-starter-wiring-question.443067/

Run a signal line from a boost source straight to the Wastegate and make you know there is nothing aftermarket messing with your computer and you'll be fine. Like I half assed said before you'll hit fuel cut IF the computer sees too much airflow, it's a failsafe, provided everything computer...

Go ahead and go WOT, you'll hit fuel cut before anything bad happens.

The break in is breaking in of the piston rings so yes use break in oil, whatever you wanna get just don't get synthetic oil, too slick. I hope you at least hone the cylinders.

Leakdown sometimes won't show either. Specifically if the leak is just developing. Even 200psi is no where near cylinder pressures when idling let alone under boost. Eventually though, the leak should get bad enough to show in a leakdown.With no water surrounding the coolant sensor, its...

DUDE please rewrite that post, I missed my dosage of concentrate and can't decrypt the hidden message

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com "Modern API certified oils have reduced zinc/phosphorus levels, and that now absent quantity of zinc/phosphorus has been replaced with alternate anti-wear components that are equal to, or better than zinc/phosphorus."

Sounds like an awkward breakup line blurted out in a Will Ferrell movie

Whats so special about that guys' rod anyway?Seriously though, whats up. $25 I think not.

Actually I doubt it's anything to do with any fused circuit. Huge sparks and melting terminal is a fatass direct short -check all the bigger cables coming off the battey, around the starter, etc. And check that amp setup too, you do have that fused RIGHT?

Pull the biggest fuse then try connecting the cable. If it still sparks then its the unfused starter cables.

Bad idea. Good way to smoke a module not rated for higher than 'typical' voltages. The battery is the reference for the alternator otherwise it defaults to a higher voltage. It also absorbs any voltage spikes, the battery is the capacitor.That's not so bad on older vehicles but, todays...

How is the airflow to the fans/radiator. There should be no gaps on any sides or it's just recirculating the hot air. Try to perfectly funnel the air to each core, if there is a lack-of ducting between a FMIC and radiator it's just recirculating hot air..

Not sure on the mount spacing but the inlet and outlets would obviously not work for a 1g in terms of 'bolt-on'. Would need modification.And FYI stock fuel rails are more than capable of flowing enough. Cute hks though.

Jack under ball joint until car starts lifting up. You'll get it.

Recently talked to someone who had just bought a jeep. Their heater didn't work. Well in the end, the problem was some form of stop leak had clogged the heater core. Hooked up air to one side and out came something fierce in the 1-2lb gunk range. Explains why the P.O. had a new core but the old...

Like what Brian touched on, I'd recommend using the 1G for the cam signal and the 2G crank for the crank signal. That way, when the crank walks and eats the sensor you can just use the 1G CAS crank signal! LOL just kiddin. But really, I have a 6 bolt in my 2g. I got tired of the whole misfiring...

You forgot to list the scale and angle of said picture taken.

I know seems far fetched but what the hell it's easy, I'd try it.So, the head gasket will inevitably be replaced right? Right. Well, on a 2g engine, the head bolts will also need replacement since they are torque to yield bolts, aka NOT reusable. Here's an option. Pop off that valve cover...

Instead of voltage, check the resistance of each motor coil. More common problem. My bad if already checked but this video is very goodDSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTubeDon't show up here and be a jerkoff the bat, sledge. Zach is a very respectable wiseman here.