Respect is earned around here, and you won't buy it with money. I know a plenty of DSM owners who have plenty of money and other more 'exotic' cars, but take pride in building their cars themselves. The 'high and mighty because I have money' attitude will get you nowhere here.That being said...
Do you have a little movement or none at all? If there is a little movement to it, it could be as simple as the gears aren't lined up well enough to just slide in. Normally the syncros help with this, but it all works better spinning, especially if they're worn. Think about how much of a pain...
also make sure there is nothing between the mating surfaces of the engine and the trans. Had this happen to me on my 1g. (reassembling in a poorly lit parking lot, water line clamp got between the trans and the engine, didn't take long to get a crack there)
I've had to deal with a few clutch issues before, first time it was a slave, second time I thought it was the master, turned out to be a broken pressure plate on my ACT 2100.+1 on having a friend cycle the pedal while you watch and checking to see where his adjustment is set.Hopefully it...
Sorry to revive a thread from the dead, but there's a lot of good info here and I would just like to add my experiences to it:First of all, the camber plates (or bolts) are needed if your going to drop the car very much, you can run on the stock top plates with some lowering, but lowering...
0.29 is also stated in the factory brochure for 1990 from my memory. I also recall something about a 0.31 with the popups up, but don't quote me on that.
I have one question about the LC-1 install. Can the LC-1 unit be safely mounted outside the car?My TSI is my daily driver, so it sees snow and everything, the problem is I don't see a way to get the bung before the flex and the LC-1 box inside without somehow lengthening my sensor wires.
I'd say yes if you can figure out how to re-use the ac condenser clutch, as that would make on/off easier, just my .02
Last build turned out awesome, Can't wait to see this one done.
there should also be a ground cable going from the tranny to the body. it goes on the bolt next to where the flexible part of the clutch line runs, but it is lighter gauge, so it probably can't take all the load you'd need. Basically check all your grounds. There should be one in the intake...
The other nice thing about sticking with which ever style of engine you have is all your parts will bolt right up. If I pulled a running g4cs short-block (pistons, rods, crank, and block), and bolted up everything (including a few odds and ends that have to be from one or the other), it would...
As said above, the radiators and FMIC's from CXracing and Punishment are the same. Personally, I'd buy from Punishment, as I've had good experience with in the past, and would rather pay an extra few bucks for the customer support if I ever needed it (like if it was banged up in shipping). You...
Pick up a set of used 550cc or 650cc injectors, a WIDEBAND 02 gauge (you want something with numbers, normally runs in the $200 to $300 range), and some form of a logger. Also, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (AFPR) would be a good idea, as the 255lph pump has a tendency to overrun the...
Pics of your tank? There's the possibility that something could be done with a DSM tank, but I'm not familiar enough with the Galant VR4 to be able to say "a tank from X car bolts right up, or with little modification". I would think that they would have at least tried to make something off the...
Sorry but I just came up with another one- AWD swap one of the new Mini's (My dad has an original one, I took a bunch of measurements, but it doesn't look like there's enough width, you'd have to pull the engine to change any belts, and the trans still wouldn't fit, but the new Mini's are...
V6 camero or mustang, make it rwd. 2.4L hybrid, Holset HX35 or HX40 and a blacked out FMIC, recirc the BOV to keep it quite, maybe even keep the stock v6 exhaust and do a 3" cutout.
Take the arm loose, and drive it around a little, If your still boosting like crazy even though the flapper can freely move, then it's boost creep. If you can barely boost, then it's actuator related.I'm not doubting Justin on this, he knows a lot more about turbos than I do, but this is the...
If your going to do this, please, at least start with an fwd, preferably a 93 or 94 1.8L. Sounds like an interesting project, and if your fabbing the whole frame, you might as well start with the slowest version out there instead of taking a GS-T or GSX off the road. Not to mention there's a lot...
Have you put in a bigger fuel pump? Generally the turbo won't quite cause that kind of issue, boost will just taper off in the higher rpm range, which doesn't sound like what's going on. Your running an un-hacked mas right? From the sounds of it, you were going lean and timing was being pulled...
It's the hot exhaust gases blowing on the alternator, it just melts the plastic coating on the windings in it and shorts it out, even if your going easy, so it won't charge your battery like it should.
To me it looks like your oem one is drilled/ported out some, I wont swear to that though, I didn't look at mine very close when I had it out. It would just be a lot easier to produce with a round hole, yours is oval, and has a bevel cut around the edge, making me think someone's messed with it...
Compression test? If the head gasket is a suspect, normally there will be low compression, or you will be able to find the problem via compression test or a leak-down. Do you have a torque wrench? There's a possibility that the head bolts aren't torqued to specs, and properly torquing could help.
With gauges, as with any part on my car, I want it to work right basically out of the box. If it's a quality product, you shouldn't have to use the warranty, and unless they have a bad manual, you shouldn't need customer service either. Yes, they're nice to have, but at least 2/3 of the...
No, it goes to the cat. The 2g ones delete the cat, but that won't fit our cars. It's a nice fit with the stock O2 housing, but you're going to need something to go between that and your catback. Personally, I run a high-flow cat and a custom built catback system (welded it all up myself). Most...
As for your clutch problem, fill it with fluid, have someone work the pedal and check the slave cylinder, you can easily see it when your laying on the ground in front of the car, it's right on the bell housing. Pick up a Haynes or similar manual for the car also, you'll find it useful, trust me.
I think it also has to do with the feel of the car when you get it from the dealership. I went and drove both a well kept evo IX MR and a new evo X GSR. You don't even have to drive them around, just sit in them and you can tell the difference. The evo X just doesn't feel like an evo, feels more...
Very impressive, that should shut up any 420a haters. You've done alot more, starting with a good bit less than many people have, keep up the good work :thumb:. You may want to do something about bracing that cross member though (maybe tie the motor mounts into the cage?). I'm concerned that...
I'd say swap the sensors and harnesses and go for it, but that will take a good bit of time, and some busted up knuckles. From what steve is saying, you should be able to wire up a conversion harness and go. Either way, keep us up to date on how it's working out, sounds like an interesting...
Sounds more like sycro's to me. Have you changed your transmission fluid recently? It's been known to help some, but it really depends on how far gone they are.
It really depends on how much it's worth to you. Do you have access to an evo harness? I would think if you could find a totaled evo, and grab sensors and the harness out of it, then it wouldn't be much worse than replacing the main harness. Until the flashing of the 2g ecu is sorted out, I...
I know I am at a good bit lower power level and boost pressure than you are, but I also had a lean/surging issue @wot when I was still on my stock pump. Moved to a 190 and the issue went away. This was on the original pump, so it could have been a tired pump or just not enough for my needs...
If you really want to stroke it, a something bigger, like a HX-35 would be a good way to go. Stroking will make you more low end torque, but it's not really necessary, especially with a 6 bolt. Unless you are in need of internals, then you really don't have to mess with them. If your m/t, the...
Compression, spark, and fuel, that's all you should need. You have fuel, and unless you jumped time, you should have compression, so that means it's more than likely electrical. When you turn the key to on (don't try to start it) does the cel come on for a few seconds and then go out, along with...
The Evo Pistons and Rods are somewhat different. The wrist pin needs to be re-drilled, and the process is very similar to putting the 2g piston on a 1g rod. If you can get in touch with dsm graveyard then I'd do so, as they have many of the answers your looking for. You could also buy an Evo...
First thing you want to do is to make sure everything is hooked up, then test from the black w/white stripe wire to one of the black (no stripe) wires in while someone else tries to start the car, you're looking for ~12 volts with the pump hooked up. If there's less than about 10, then...
Yea, you have a little modifying to make the internal wastegate actuator work, I was just presenting it as an option. ;) If it's installed already, might as well make it work.
Is it just the actuator going bad or are the seals on the butterfly valves for the second set of runners leaking? If it's an actuator issue, you should be able to replace it with an internal wastegate actuator, and then control the opening with an mbc if you want it to open later.
+1. Also get new ones of the rubber bushing that go at the top. Basically, you DO NOT want to lower it at all. You want the stock springs, with fresh spacers at the top, with some adjustable shocks. You want as much travel available, and you'll just have to play with the shocks to get them how...
Do you have a volt meter to check the voltage at the pump? That 'not right' hum/buzz your getting could also be from a lack of power. As your probably aware, most electric motors don't move until there's enough power going to them, and sometimes make odd humming noises when there's not enough...
as long as they're both 420a's (both engine bays look nearly identical), then it shouldn't be too bad. Is it m/t or auto? Are you swapping the tranny with the engine, or just the engine? (we can give you better advice if we know more about what your doing). Main thing is to start hitting all the...
Are you M/T or A/T? If your A/T with larger injectors and the stock turbo, you could just be running out of turbo. Generally, 3rd and above 'use' more air and fuel, which would explain why you can only build to 15psi, with it falling to 10psi. What's happening is your using the air faster than...
imdrax-
Have you checked the knock sensor in some way? (looked at it, felt around it to see if it's 'gooey', used a known working one from another car?). If you haven't checked the sensor, then I'd recommend doing so, especially if it's the original. Do you have a wideband to use? The stock 02...