he stated that he had to press in the clutch for the car to idle properly and that the knock goes away when on the throttle....it dosent sound like your symtoms but then again no two cars are the same....

is the check engine light on?

i think it would be best to try and find the problem then fix it instead of throwing parts at it to try and mask it....from the video i dont know if its my speakers or the quality bout ive never heard a knocking sound like that...it kinda sounds like a knocking from fuel detenation over here....

check the terminals at your battery......i had a similar problem a while back and thats what it was....your problem definently sounds ignition related tho

its easy to wire up the wideband setup......just like stated above the red wire hooked up to power and black to ground....i splice the white wire to the o2 sensor input in the ecu harness right behind the connector(which is a white wire also pin 4 i beleive)and turn the rotary knob behind the...

lol wow you all are some lucky people....now whos willing to sell me an hx35 for $25?

lol wow that's classic......now every time when I do an oil change to my car all Ima think about is exploding oil pans

your suppose to lube both threaded sides of the stud with a generous amount of the arp lube not just one....u can also use thread locker instead of the lube but not together... :nono: It has to be one or the other...torque them down in steps n proper sequence bout 3-4 times like stated... and...

are you leaking anything since your block is cracked???(if im reading your last post right)

let us know the results when you have them so we (atleast i) can know what to look for if my seal goes bad

how exactly is it an economical choice??? are you getting it for free from your friend or something??? if not i would rather go with the 6 bolt and call it a day...but thinking like that then there would be no variety in the dsm world

the 6bolt block can bolt up to a 2nd gen trans in a 2g car no prob but the other way round a 7 bolt block to a 1g trans in a 1g car im not sure....reason being i dont know anyone that would want to do that....the only differences i can think of is that the 7 bolt(2gen) uses 5 bolts for the...

well i cant tell you any exact numbers but imo every motor is different.....i believe that a good tune makes all the difference tho

yea exactly let the water sit and watch to see even if it drips

the best tool that i ever purchashed..especialy since i like to always use leverage to my advantage

i always hit my radio when shifting and the stations changes to something random kinda like a station shuffler lol but its all good......i like the stock spot better tho

you can do what rx7 had suggested or if you want u can just pull off the manifolds and fill the ports with water and look if anything is leaking thru the valves...if you dont feel like removing your valve train..

the dimple faces he front of the engine.. so it goes towards the t-belt

lol nice find.... let us know the results

not tryna Jack the thread or prove anyone wrong, just wondering something..while the subject is up... if ## spark plug is wet/foul what does that has to do with the ect?? n also Im not sure but if the ect is disconected wouldnt the car still start but the ecu jus think that the coolant is like...

well maybe cas but did you check to see if your timing is dead on?...ok and also like you said you already have the basics.. spark and fuel...but do you mean fuel at the rail or that your getting pulses at the injectors? check for this if havent already...so then now all you need is...

it would be much easier from the top like stated and for the autozone and advanced store alternators being bad...i dont know

LOL and thats why i krazy glue mine shut :thumb:

look and double check if theres still a leak at the egr plate.... sounds to me like you might have a lot of un metered air going into the engine and not enough fuel to compensate... try spraying some starter fluid in that area and see if theres a difference

lol well you got me on this one but i would suggest looking around the engine bay to see if theres any wires that got burned or frayed by the hot oil.... also this might not be the problem bout i used to get similar surging problems when i had low coolant and air in my cooling system

i second that... even if you timed the motor corectly and just slaped on a new tbelt u would lose compression because of the bent valves and your just gonna be asking for more problems down the road and thats a :nono:

so whats the results?

try installing the battery w/o that bracket thats touching your leads.... den if the alt is pushing out the amount of voltage(as i stated above) den its time to whip out yor trusty multimeter(if you dont have one then this would be the perfect time to get one) and do a parasitic draw test(like i...

i can second that... my fan wasnt wired up correctly and motor overheated and smelled that nasty smell....thankgod i did because i wasnt paying attn. to the temp gauge....

try and get a new bat (or known good one) and see what hapends... if the problem still there then check the connection at the transitor and coil..mainly transitor..i had a similar prob where my car would die when ever i reached bout 3500 n it was because of a loose conection at the transistor...

i would sugest to start the car(w or w/o jump, dont mater) and measure the voltage at the battery while the car is runnig.. it shuld read bout 12.9-14v(imo the more the better).. if it does then that means the alt output to charge the battery is good and its just your bat thats not holding...

did you get the new battery? if not try swaping out yours with a known good one and check the results. because your bat,coil,transistor and plugs are all tied in together... and also the tachometer since it gets its input from the transistor...double check battery terminals

i agree...does the motor catches a little but not enough to run on its own? i would start with the basics first... check for fuel and spark...when mine died out of no where with a loud pop it was because of spark... it sounded like a quick backfire

hahaha i own none of the two... i always tell myself i gotta get one but never do.. imo leakdown is a better test

remove the ecu and open it up.. look for anything that got burnt or fried before replacing

ive had the same problem in my 2g gst and found out that the connector to my power transistor was connected but not cliped into place..sometimes the pins would touch and other times no(which causes the intermitent start)... pressed it down real hard and started rite up.... my advice:check...

x2 u might have to wait for a few seconds after contecting the wire for the gauge because it reacted slow when i had this problem

the stock boost gauge dosent use vacuum hoses. its electrical and it gets its signal direclty from the ecu which uses the mdp sensor on the manifold to determine pressure/vacuum

i would still test the coil further..check and make sure you have a good connection at the coil itself.. see if its getting a good ground and voltage for the primary winding.

i have the same problem but it was because of a bad ground connection thats behind the cluster where the rheostat and the starter relay conect to.. if you decide to have the stock lights i would look there

well im kinda of a newbie but im in school to become an automotive technician.......and one of the things i learned is that when a code has the # 1 after the letter ex. p1058 then that mean the manufactuer (dealer) needs to scan it with their scaner.....