I don't have time this sec but I'll post an update later, I went with the 200 amp from motorcity reman and changed the wiring a little bit with great results.

I ran my RCA's, iPod cable, gps receiver wire, USB for my aem and remote through the console on the left side but I wouldn't run the power wire through there. Too many wires/ electronics including modules and the ecu under the front of the console. Not to mention lots of moving devices like...

Definitely, a friend of mine races jet ski's ( turbo seadoo rxp 400 plus hp) and aem recently sponsored him with an ems 4, cdi box and tuning services and the reps were trying to figure out if they could retrofit one on the output shaft to do live tuning on the water. I was asking them how to...

Apples and oranges. I guess that's why Mitsubishi used rtv on the pumps and they call for it in the manuals. Actually they don't and engine builders I know don't use it on that side of the block either Examples Dogbox racing, turbotrix, magnus, graveyard motorsports. Paper gaskets can...

I had issues the first few times I tried this also. Your best bet, which has always worked for me is as follows. 1 don't use silicone as the fiber/paper style gaskets we use for our water pumps doesn't work well with silicon or rtv, instead stop by your local parts store and get a fresh gasket...

here's the link- Dyno-Shaft On-Vehicle Dyno . This is set up for rwd now but I can definately see this technology being adapted for the dsm world. I want to hear some opinions and input. I'm wondering if a 4 sensor set up for each axle would be the way to go or if a sensor could be installed...

I have one if you need it, I ordered it with my relocation and didn't use it since i bought the single wire alternator

I agree with bryan, you want a machine shop to drill that cam out. Doing it in the car is risky. And im not sure why but I didn't need to rearrange injector wires, just plug wires, maybe because I kept the 2gb cas.

Try extreme psi or MAPerformance. Both have multiple kits for feed and return that you put together yourself with fittings for your 16g and 2g oil pan. Note: the return line is tough to put together in braided stainless, the pushlock style is much easier to assemble

Sounds like isc wants 1500$ to rearrange your plug wires. As stated above don't rush and cut corners, read and do your research. If you get the jay racing tool that presses against the tensioner,(looks like a long bolt 20$) you can zip tie your timing belt to the cam gears to hold timing tdc...

As soon as the breaker comes I'll run it from idle up to 6k and take a screen shot of the aem voltage map, with and without accessories. We can see if we're in the same ball park.

Ray told me the smallest 4 grove they offer was 2.25", the smallest 5 grove which is what they normally send on the 160 and 200 amp saturn versions is 2.1" (2.25 5 grove for the 105 amp) and the smallest period for our style belt is the 6 grove that I bought. I mean, I'm sure there is something...

I just bought the MotorCity Reman 200 amp 1-wire se alternator. I asked ray when I order it for their smallest diameter pulley and this is what I got. It's got 6 grooves( only way you can get it) and it's just about 2", right between 1.9 and 2.0". I'm waiting for the 200 amp breakers to come...

yeah if your not worried about an amp thats fine. run the fuel pump off the breaker terminal though not off the battery, with a 30 amp fuse close to the pump. the breaker works both ways so if your battery goes crazy it won't smoke the wire up to the fuse for the pump.

The knukonceptz stuff is tits. really high quallity. I think maybe 1/4 inch would work (not sure if they make them that small for 4 guage terminals) but I used 5/16 with out a problem. I switched the alternator 100amp fuse with the 60amp fuse to give me room. The alt wire is on the back side of...

I just got the relocation kit, looks good. I just wanted to put the part numbers for the gates racing belts that fit our saturn relocation kit up, this is the first time jay had to order them so they're not on the site yet. I let the car sit alot more in the winter and these gates belts are...

I'll put some pics up and the part numbers when I get home, takes to long on iPhone. I'm having lots of fun pulling my boat and jetski's out of the water to winterize and heat wrap so it won't be til later or in the morning.the breakers are 5/16 stud and they work in fuse box also but you'll...

2 guage works fine, it cranks really strong. I tried to atleast double the factory wire which was like 6 or 8 guage for the starter. I probably will go over to 0 guage now that im going from 90 amps to 200, but as long as you use quality wire and terminals/connectors (preferably solder on) with...

That's whats up, What do you think the pulley size should be? my idle is around 900, because of the cams I can't get it any lower. I don't want to over spin the alternator, redline is set a little less than 8k (evo 3 7-bolt) and the motor on the stand (6-bolt w/ forged internals)that probably...

just wondering why I would run the sense wire to the rear distribution block and not the front since the majority of the draw is up front, I feel like when the fans kick on or the hid's it would sense better closer to their power source they draw from, note I know the basics, i'm not an...

Here's what my set up looks like. I went through alot of threads these were the most helpfull. Both guys do their research.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152022910-post471.htmlhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/350806-2g-battery-relocation.html

I'm about to order the maxx 200 amp w/ 2" pulley but I'm not sure which way to go. Should I go with the 1 wire or the traditional regulator, I have a voltage gauge that can be set to flash when a set voltage is hit ( as a low voltage warning and high for that matter) so I don't need the dash...

Yea I just got tired of smoking bits and the drill jumping on me. The spot weld cutter was only 5$ from harbor freight, it has a centering pin and was sharp even after I was done. But you def did a good job

I have pics of the first two manifolds they sent and the sales staff at modern would def agree about the poor quality. Maybe they got it right in the last 2 years. I thought it would be great but it wasn't and as far as a wastegate goes you can't run a tial 44 and keep your powersteering. Also...

Congrats, keep it goin

This is a shot from in the car of the other side of that manifold. Heater box, ac box and blower box all tie in together

It definitely cleans the engine bay up, it lets more air flow under the hood and through the radiator also. It just depends what your doing with the car whether or not you should keep it. As far as that aluminum manifold coming through the fire wall, leave it because to remove it you have to...

the increase in air flow is almost 30% with the 2g mass, hard intake/filter and the 550's compensate the air/fuel nicely. but he's not going to be able to boost less than 15 and no more than 18 psi. i've done it to a few cars and they ran great but that 250-275 hp is all you'll see untill like...

skip the radiator and motor mounts until you need them. get an exhaust pref 3" ss turbo back, and 2g intake and mas, a set of 550's, boost controller, maybe a 16g and see where your need for speed and budget are at that point, all easy to come by parts that can be resold easily later to go bigger

dearest nameless said it. it's all about what wire harness is in the car 420a or 4g63t. establish that before you weigh your options

looks like someone couldnt find the right fuse before you had it. your lucky it didnt melt down the harness like that. looks alot better when you got done

the only place that has a decent size hole is where the harness goes through, unless the dash was pulled and the ac box was removed the aluminum bracket where the lines conect would still be filling the hole and the heater core has 2 small holes that are hard to see unless the intake manifold is...

1g has them too, but most aftermarket turbos are just oil fed and the coolant lines are deleted.

If your compression is good.Make sure your plugs aren't getting soaked and are firing and check your fuel pressure. Maybe unplug the battery to reset ecu and just check all sensor connections like cam and crank.

You'll find that they keep the bs to a minimum on here, which really helps when your trying to find solid info. The moderators do a good job and people in the Dsm community look out for each other.

I would stay away from erl. I ordered that manifold when MAPerformance first had it and the first one they sent me had a warped flange and casting defects, the weirdo way the wastegate mounts is not impressive either. I sent it back and the next one they sent me had cracks on the inside the...

That article helped me get started

yeah it sucks. I was wooping on my friends c5 zo6 and something in the road kicked up and went under my car as i shifted into 4th, nothing happend but i backed off and pulled over and looked under the car, couldn't see anything, nothing seemed wrong or hurt. we pull back out, i rip through...

there should be no wires from the battery to the block, the wire from your ground terminal on the battery needs to go to the firewall but it also connects to the trans , not the block. you need a cable to ground the battery and the trans to the fire wall. if you don't know what im talking...

just a couple tips, get a good spot weld cutting bit, you can see how clean it drilled the awd bracket off the gsx in the pic. The other pic show how i hacked up the car to get to the subframe bolts, thats ok, it got junked but i measured from multiple points so when it was time for the holes...

exactly, but that's the learning curve, Im still not sure what the next project im going to build is but the money will go alot further. there's a theft recovered 98 acura nsx at the impound where my friend works, complete car except for the motor and trans/axles wonder how a evo motor would...

Rau is def up there but I think ams spends more than shep, magnus, turbotrix and buschur combined. They show up to events with 5 cars

It's crazy because you can make a pretty quick car out of oem parts combos and DIY stuff, I've seen it done a million times but never wanted to build that way. Do your research and use the forums because buying things over and redoing the same work will cost you big time in the overall outcome...

It's supposed to go from the battery to the firewall, that's your problem. Fix that and you should be in business. The harness grounds are right behind the battery on the firewall there will be four small black wires also a small group for lighting behind drivers headlight on inside of the...

I'm trying to find it. I did my fans like 3 years ago. If you google it, you'll find a few opinions but there was a guy on one of the forums that did a bench test, he worked for a ventilation company. he tested a few set ups and he said the stock set up cooled very efficiently because of the...

Could see some sense in that but what about when you run a catch can?

Yea, I've heard of that but never personally had an issue, I don't drive it everyday and I change the oil every couple months, usually clean when I change since there's low milage. Seems like the bigger set up non daily driver cars don't run them but people that cycle the engine on and off...

I don't even run them, just 2 -8 an braided lines to a vented catch can

I don't know off hand but if I remember right, it was around 700 or 800 cfms. One of the things about aftermarket fans alot of people forget is they don't have a shroud. You need to buy or make one so the airflow is directed. I have 2 spal Fans and have the relay jumped so they run together...