Well, if my car ever gets out of the shop...Once I get the new engine/clutch broken in, I was wondering what a good setting would be for high boost (track use). The engine is a JDM 4g63, and the turbo is a 7cm 16G (not origional cyclone one). Anyhow, I know I can run it at 15psi safely...
It depends on a lot of things how much it will cost. Mandrel or press-bent (Mandrel is better), as well as what material you use (stainless, etc...). I recently had a downpipe custom made and it cost me $350 installed from a guy in my car club, but it had all the fixins (02 eliminator...
I bought mine with a blown motor (t-belt came off). Paid $2,000 for it. Came with:
-17in Konig ToXXins w/new Yokohama Piradas
-Eibach Springs
-Koni Shocks
-Powerstop rotors
-TRD 3-inch catback
-Boost/AF gauges
-Sony Head Unit
-TurboXs RFL (replaced with 1G cause I didn't like the atmo...
Use some vice grips or something, crimp the end of the dipstick tube in a little bit. The rubber piece at the top of the dipstick dries out after a while and doesn't hold it in right.And you should invest in a fire extinguisher. $11 at home Depot. Easy to install (look in my gallery)
Look next to each headlight under your hood, you should see a black thing with a red knob on top, turn the knob a few times, it adjusts your motor. For some reason they like to re-adjust themselves after you pop the headlights up/down a few times.
It seems like the problem with doing it while the engine is running would be steam. As long as the hood is up you are fine, but once you close it (to go driving) the steam would be trapped and could condense in some palces (electrical things).Just my 2 cents.
LookTo clarify, that is from my Talon.DIESEL POWAH!!!Actually, my car was running BAD, and we stopped part way through the run cause I blew off a hose.The name/car type were scratched out/re-written cause the guys running the Dyno forgot to reset em.
Under the hood:
-Non-functioning MBC (I don't think it was even hooked up)
-Blown motor (ha ha I so funnay!)
-Lots and LOTS of leaves, there are still a bunch behind my feders that I can't get to.Interior:
-About 5 bucks in change
-When we pulled out the center console the other day, I...
I'd like to add my little bit to this:I've been using George's shop for a while now and have NEVER had a problem with the car that they couldn't solve. The guys up there are knowledgable. As far as George giving bad advice, I highly doubt it. Shit, I'd just about stake my car on it. I've...
If I'm acting like an ass lately (I.E: Last night). For some strange and unapparent reason I have been feeling rather depressed lately and I tend to take it out on others.
I got most of the oil off of my Engine bay from when the previous owners engine blew up. I forgot how bad the bondo was in there. (The car was in a pretty hefty front-ender before I got it).Ah well, still looks better.
Crankwalking./cheapshot.I guess I am sort of biased.As for reasons.-1G's (at least mine) seems less problematic than a 2G.
-6-bolt. Less chance of CW, and generally just stronger (IIRC).
-Better stock turbo.
-People think its an old econobox (sometimes), giving you the...
Actually, I take that back, I do still hit fuel-cut (I'm guessing thats what it is, feels like it did before). But its happening a LOT later.It used to happen at 5.5k in 1-3. Now it only happens at 6.5k in 1 and 2.But that requires a new/reprogrammed ECU to fix, no?
I dunno, I'll run by the shop and talk to them. Its idling just fine. It may just be reading wierd or something. The only differences I have noticed are:-Whining noise (pump, I know, I actually kinda like it).
-No more fuel cutCould it be its just reading what my max pressure is set...
Now that I'm not hitting the limits of my stock fuel system anymore, I'm hitting the limits of my stock downpipe.I know, I know, your saying "Why don't you have a bigger downpipe?".Because I ran out of money. So if anyone wants to send donations, I can give ya an address. :)