I drove my daily street car 3400 miles round trip to its last track event. Only issue during the whole trip was a broken inner wastegate spring that robbed some of my boost, still made consistant 12.3 passes and drove home. Full weight, a/c ect. IMO this is a decent steet car, fast being...

+0 on the big exhaust. The REAL way to stop creep is to port the wastegate hole to the limit where the flapper barely covers it and hog out the turbo inlet toward the wastegate opening. Then it will not matter what exhaust/cat/o2 housing is (or is not) on the car, IT WON'T CREEP. +1 on removing...

Check the gap on the plugs. If you experience misfires at WOT and the car runs perfect otherwise then the plugs are most likely gapped to large or the gap eroded.

My OP2.0 has been sitting in the garage for a few months cause I sold the GSX, I just got a 97 GST and wanted to pull some logs while cranking up the boost but my computer wont connect to the cable and the OP just has one red light instead of the multi-colored light show. Anyone else see this...

I would use a known good/calibrated gauge. I have seen compression gauges read 100psi off. If you are loosing that much comression you would know. There would be lots of oil coming from the pcv vent into the intake pipe and the oil dipstick would pop out and spray oil everywhere.

@ 31sec it sounds like the pcv valve freaking out like mine did from super low vac. on the web546/547.

2 most common reasons for pushing coolant= radiator cap not holding pressure or head gasket leaking under WOT/boost.

That sneaky little bolt. I have had issues like this before and thought about doing the same thing. Triple check for one last bolt and the inspection cover on the bottom then pry evenly on two sides. If you pry on one side only you might bend the clutch plate.

It's ok to run past 80% idc but most say don't do it cause you don't have much overhead. If you get a boost spike about 3psi more than normal when you tuned at 98% IDC you might be in trouble but in most cases it should be fine to run them to 90%. To get the idc down a bit you can run a little...

You better find out for sure and hope you don't find a blown head gasket instead. Last time I "took the sellers word for it" I got a dsm that he said just needed a timing belt when actually he ran it out of oil. Who doesn't check thier oil when it leaks all over your driveway?

Agreed^^^ I ran a pte 50 trim on e85 @ 30psi 6swap, ported, cams ect. all on 850cc, wally gss342, stock 2g fpr. If you run injectors way too big you will have trouble tuning a tame street car for upgrades you MIGHT do someday. My .02

Most of the plugs are interchangable. The coil,tps, injectors, knock sensor ect. Just remember to use the 1g fpr on it or you will wonder why it's so rich when it fires up. When I got my 98 w/6 swap it had a 1g fpr and LEAN.

That turbo is not moving very much air at 7psi. Not eficient enough at that low of a pressure to overrun your fuel system. Maybe with a stroker, cams, big turbo @7psi and stock pump/injectors but not likely the issue. Replace the fuel filter/pick up screen and check fuel pressure under boost.

I agree +149,000 It's not just dsm, if you are an a$$h0l3 that treats your car/dsm like a cheap prostitute it will fail and become unreliable.

I have wondered if the sizes of ebay turbos are the same as the real ones in case you blew a 20g or 16g and smeared the wheel on the housing and were looking for a cheap fix. Every time I compare, they are way off. I have run 2 ebay turbos and a friend with one. #1 t3 blew oil ring, rebuilt...

What honda guys have on thier side is power to weight. An h22 with head work will should move good IF it's is in a light civic. I doubt 250 wheel cause the 220hp h22a type-s is far from putting that 220hp to the ground. If it looks like a full weight car, you will leave him. If it's...

A 225/45/17 donut? Really? :ohdamn:

:nono: Those little holes do go through but most people have great ring seal and working pcv systems so they don't leak. Try cleaning the pcv valve and se if thats helps. It seems like 1 out of 100 oil catch cans I see are actually installed right. Who cares if a little oil vapor gets...

Driveshaft and depending on the year the tcase will swap. That's about it.

And actually meets criteria :p

Once again, the criteria is not "less than 5k" it's 5k-6k and I paid 6k. The gti has a great back seat, not like dsm's. They are the real "might as well be a 2 seater" car. If you don't see this car fitting the OP's criteria then read, read, and read again. I'm not trying to bash but honestly...

The 02 gti I bought from a friend who had it for a few years and gave him no trouble at all. VW/AUDI makes very nice cars with lots of things in mind like comfort/ style/ power. A 95 cavi is a car you get when you are 16, it's not a 2000 or newer (criteria) it's not fast to anyones standards...

Sounds like you forgot to intall the thrust collar or something. It should spin free with the nut loose or tight. Did you compare all the parts that came out with the ones in the rebuild kit? If you are messing with the only turbo you have then leave it to a pro, if it's extra then tear into it...

You should drill/tap 1/8" barbed fitting in the bov and hook it back up.

Bigger is not always better. The bigger the injector the slower it is, harder to dial in dead times, harder to keep consistant. I ran 660s on e85 w/stock 2g fpr and hit 100%idc @ 20psi on a 16g. PTE 50 trim @30PSI and 850s on e85 I was still under 90%idc.

As soon as you stop cranking if it sounds like a bird freaking out then it might be the bearings/bushings in the starter. As the starter motor slows it wobbles and makes a loud fluttering screech.This is if the starter is old/worn

Thats why the timing belt will run 130k miles (alldata) and yes my girls car needed a fan control module but it was $40 and took 10 minutes to change. If you ask me, that's great. It's been 5k miles since the purchase and we both love it. Also, HE WANTS POWER! What other car will sip a gallon in...

My chic has an 02 VW GTI It's the ^^^1.8t I think 180hp Full power/leather/heated seats and mirrors. Very roomy back seats 33mpg highway (really) We picked it up for 6k w/89k miles.

Are you talking about an air leak or coolant leak from the mani/head? You can pull the manifold and bring it to a machine shop and have it surfaced. The poly gaskets are nice but if there is pitting or a warped surface it will be hard to seal things up with any gasket.

^ How did you know? < Leopard print man thong! V Is grossed out now!

^ Is right, I have the LEFT piping < Is going to go to bed and bang his chic now V Wishes he was going to bang my chic. lol

^ Is right, a loser with a broken DSM < Will have a fast running DSM soon V Is now gonna check out Austrian Death Machine cause they are funny $h!t

^ Knows I was born listening to music < Was born listening to music V Likes boy bands........... ^ No, I will check them out now. ............ Just LMAO @ Get to the Choppa vid, good stuff but too metal, not enough new school hardcore for me.

^ Is right, 97 gst. < Is listening to Devil wears Prada. V Has no idea and would get scared and deficate him/herself uppon listening.

RS@ 18 Built & boosted @ 22 96 TSI fwd @ 24 98 GSX 25 97 GST @ 26 = now. Evo 8 @ 27

That's where it's at! Less engine rocking, less clutch chatter, minimal vibration.

DSM isc sucks. I have had some that appear to work for the most part but get retarded on a regular basis. I would (1) check for boost/vac leaks (2) set BISS (3) replace isc.

^ is now in the loop cause < got ripped off for a dsm that some fooktard ran out of oil and now waiting forever on engine parts V is gonna say awwwww poor ba$tard!

With KYB's you can turn up the stiffy in the rear.

I have seen a case where the coupler had a cut on the inside so air went through where the threads reinforce it. Basicly leaking from between the layers. My buddy 2gfoley replaced the stock bov with a greddy and went from 12psi to 24psi. until then he had no idea the wastegate line was f****d.

Socks and a body pillow, til the GF starts to hog the blanket. I'll throw an elbow and yank back then in the morn it's " I did what to you while I was asleep? Nohh"

Some guy was telling me about how his 96 (crank sensor on the thin reluctor plate) got such a bad case of crank walk that the pulley moved so far it rubbed the frame of the car.

I say if it's an RS, awd/ swap it. If it's a GS, sell it and get a GSX and build it. The only advantage of keeping your current car is weight and at 2700 lbs full weight RS is way better than a butchered GSX @ 2900 lbs.

That's my build. I sold it to a guy in PHX a few month ago. The turbo is an internal gated PTE 50 trim. It is a GSX I just love the GST rims. The injectors are 850cc. It was tuned on e85 when I sold it. Any questions, just ask.

Many of us have had sticky lifters do this to us. Turbo spools, sounds mean like sssswooooooosh but no power cause the log shows that ignition timing is 1*. Then when she's hauling balls the timing is normal cause lifter tick is intermittent.

Assuming you peak 16-17* you will not want to go higher than about 24psi on pump. The nice thing about logging is that you can push it and KNOW if you are pushing it too hard. If you have no way of knowing timing or knock retard then you most likely don't IDC's or knock ct. To answer your...

That is NO way to tune, all it takes is a boost spike and the head lifts cause lean+boost=no head gasket. Don't max the fuel system until it cannot keep up.

I have personally run wally 255's on a 2g fpr and 3 1g fpr's with no over run at all. I guess it is like crank walk, it hardly ever happens but people make a big deal of it anyway.

If I remember right, both switches work the same (clutch out=open, depressed =gnd) but you said gnd to pin 44 activates the nlts rpm limit. With slot 44 empty and nlts "on" it limits at the nlts rpm all the time. Are you sure I don't somehow have this bass akwards?

Like stated above ^^again and again, this is a BIG turbo issue and with a properly set up BC and a good one at that( not a pos manual like T'netics) you should see the same pressure in any gear on a small turbo like the 16g. Tricks you might try to smooth things out are 1- use intercooled air...