Ughhhh I guess i will pull it out once again tonight, we will see.

yeah, it was still on there, could it not have seated? if thats not the problem what could be?

So I have done this many times, had problems where it will not fully go in, but never this, When I have the new axle fully installed it moves pretty freely in and out of the transmission, but when every single thing is reinstalled it slides out a little bit spilling some tranny fluid, I go under...

The rods looked good and i wiggled them and they were completely fine, the balance shaft would spin about an 1/8th turn but it was not wiggking around, so it didnt seem to be a bearing, so im assuming the lifters may just need to be broken in.

Alright update time, got the pan off, really found nothing out of the ordinary, all crank bearings and rod bearings seemed to be fine, both balance shafts had no side to side play in them really and I had no mysterious bearing in the pan, I found a very small amount of metal shavings in the...

Update, unless it just needs to run for longer hahah, which im not about to do, the lifters were not the issue, I will take the oil pan off and we will see from there, if thats not it, than I have a real problem hah.

Did you change your bearing with the engine in or did you pull it?

I know that there will be shavings in the pan, I am just looking for other ways to check it than that, its a little mor than I wanna do, new lifters in it now. I did get a new head and cleaned it, rebuilt it full stock, thats why I am stunned the lifters would go because everything in there...

How would I go about checking the balance shaft bearings, would I just have to pull the oil pan off and inspect them?

One lifter seemed to be soft, so I am assuming it went bad, I did not find any metal shavings, nothing was loose from what I could see, I removed the lifters as you can see, none of the springs were broken, but I will let you look to see anything I might have missed. The pictures are a little...

Oh yea, I completely agree with you, I refuse to drive it haha, I wasnt trying to be defensive, I guess I just misunderstood you, but your right.

All cylinders came up as between 145 and 155 psi cold, because I havent driven it like this, I am takign it very seriously. So that rules out bad valves or anything of that nature, I am going to check the timing belt tensioner, the crank pulley was bolted up fine, and I am going to take the...

Well its probably not a bent valve because the compression test was 150 ppsi across the board so I am thinking it is just collapsed lifters, and when I replace that, if it doesnt stop ill have to think of something other, ill do another compression test just for good measure.

Heres a video of my car running, it just started doing this overnight. I think i might have bad lifters but would like suggestions, it sounds like it is coming from the intake side of the head, doesnt sound down in the block. YouTube - Bad lifter? DSM

Thats what i was thinking, but it would be less troublesome to throw my 14b on there because that sounds like its a pretty elaborate setup i dont have the time to actually setup.

I did that before, the flapper is in the rightspot covering the hole and is sealed, and its not crcked. I am not going to change the turbo just yet because of the thing not having much shaft play, I am putting my old 1g exhaust manifold on, and I guess I will try a boost leak test, but if it...

Update, just checked for saft play, tad bit side to side but nothing ridiculous, I am going to assume that its the exhaust leak at the manifold, but I would love to get some input on any other possibilities out there I might not be thinking about. Plus I did a compression test for safe measures...

Mods list, 16g, 2g mani and 2g o2, dejon tool short route fmic, mbc at 15 psi, safc1, ultralite boost and pyrometer. I went out and looked around, wastegate seems to be in place, checked arm and its still connected, exhaust manifold has a little leak, which I was going to deal with but was the...

My car builds boost really slowly, and does not feel like a boost leak because it doesnt bog at all, and it all happened just earlier today. It will get to about 3 pounds and all it does is run slowly, not worse, just want to get some ideas, i plan on putting the old exhaust manifold on because...

I think that was my first try but my palm is not working. If I get it working everything will most likely be easier. I am assuming my ignition timing could be off, but I am still looking for suggestions.

Thats the one I forgot to number, but if it matters when I started it it made a small pop like backfire out the exhaust and it was throwing now CEL's

Alright, first off I just changed the head gasket on my car and such, and now that I have it back together i started it and it will not run right. It sounds like it is missing really bad or running on 3 cylinders, sounds like a lawn mower, and I checked compression and that is completely fine...

Oil pressure would be best, get a wideband of if oyu want a narrow band, substitute it for an egt, narrowband ruins everything. Oil temperature is a gauge you do not need seeing as oil pressure is what truly affects you engine, and if the oil were to be hot, the pressure would be excessivly high.

Ebay tubular manifolds crack and fall apart most of the time, but some of the time they work out, buy one and weld a couple extra supports on it and youll have no problem.

Hey Projectsi, are there any other people in our area of WI running Holset's, and if so are they on widsm? Because right now the only one I know of is you, and I am planning on puttting one on my next car.

Do you have an aftermarket blow off valve or is your mbc teed in through your blow off valve line? Also compressor surge is when the air is not released when load is let off and instead of releasing out of the blow off valve it goes back wards out of the turbo, yes it will cause damage because...

Was that on a built block, whatd you use for fuel, and what were you running in boost?

Well I have a 7blade, do you know what his times were?

I havent been able to find this, what is the highest whp number produced by the hx35 with the stock t3 housing so far?

Go with the evo 3 16g, if you are worrying about lag than you should not be owning a turbo car, and it will easily reach your goals. But you will need to do the same mods to reach the goal you want, which would be the same as on any other turbo. The evo 3 is the same price as the big 16g and...

Do a full 3" exhaust, boost gauge, possibly a bigger turbo, and if you absolutely need a manifold just go with a ported 2g manifold, its off of a 2g dsm and it flows alot better for cheap.

I agree with you on the not wanting to dent your water pipe, it almost seems like the cheap way to do it, a spacer between the manifold and head would be your best bet but I would watch for a stock radiator fan clearance problem.

Fwd is prefered in most racing types other than rally or drag, auto cross is more for the fwd, same as road racing, and neither nt or turbo can be considered better for auto cross in my opinion due to the fact that you can build a turbo for auto crossing and will do as well as if not better...

Well to Lofty's comment, I ran a little bit of SCCA Solo at Millerpark, and it isn't that big, stuff like sponsors are not big for your typical autocrosser, and the people there are very good drivers and to get sponsored you need to be good. So I would worry about getting into it and getting...

This sounds like a great kit due other than the low flowing intercooler, which is typical of ebay cores, but overall this is an insanely good price for a good reliable product, even with a 2-3 psi loss.

Overall pick up that Talon, you will hav alot of fun with a decently modified car like that, and awd is alot better, trust me, I own a fwd Laser.

I am sure that it is just wear and tear, but over all its not awful you can clean the pistons and such, I see you run an hx35 at 28 psi, that could cause it eventually.

Alright, what you do tomorrow is turn your boost to about 12psi, than for the next few mods you will want to purchase a logger, fuel management system of some kind, and than go for larger injectors. Just make sure you dont get a piggy back and 1000cc injectors or you will not be able to...

Definitely do the porting option, it will slow down but not fully eliminate any boost fluctuation which is no good, having 27 psi and than it drops to 20 by redline does not help any 1/4 mile times at all. PErsonally if I were you I would do an external gate on the exhaust manifold and weld the...

Using the stock housing commonly puts out more power and you will see 20 pounds by 4000 which is streetable and powerful, and yes it will have a little more power than your current setup.

Your best bet would be to weld all of the piping so you dont have to worry about the blowing off of piping, if not get those 3 ply couplers, they are very good and will hold alot of boost, but for the best go with 4 ply.

The internal gate on my hx35 holds 28 pounds consistent with no drop once so ever.

For your setup definitely go with a .55 bep bolt on housing due to the lag time, but if you are looking for big numbers out of that turbo you will need the t3 exhaust side.

Wideband, logger, laptop, would be your basics for all of your tuning.

In response to Woop, its not the heat he will be worrying about due to the fact that the oil pan doesnt get to hot in the first place due to the exposure and such, so really the biggest problem would be debris nad the ground.

Great set up, I am in awe.

If that does not work and the broken bolt is long enough that it sticks up higher than the surface which the hole is in you can put a nut on the top of it and weld it goodo n top of the broken stud, than you can unscrew it wiht your everyday wrench or ratchet.

Well in reality the coating on the oil pan is going to have to withstand a large amount of abuse by many things, and if you think about where it is located it would be considered underbody. So basically what I am tryingto say is coat it with underbody coating if you want it to last, but if you...

So basically you will need an eprom ecu, laptop, and a tuning program, if you search Ostrich I am sure that would be your first choice. If you want a reliable tuning program that is very close to dsmlink v3 and works just as well, go with Ostrich just as I am.

To successfully record logs you have to actually be driving which excludes the desktop pc, and you can not do anything more than log with a palm pilot, but is nice to have. Over all the laptop is your best bet due to the fact that you can run more than just logging programs, which are free to...