Thanks for that. Did a little troubleshooting of my own, and my alternator seems fine. Car ran without the battery plugged up, so the guys at Autozone don't know shit(big surprise). Gonna replace the battery with a new one, and see what happens.
I feel like a moron, but not totally because I don't really have the facilities to work on a car very much. It was apparently a loose connection at the starter. We did get it started by a push start, and over to a friends house where he took a look at it today and figured it out.Also, had an...
Infinity system long since removed, and it has started by a push start. It wouldn't start that way the other day, but it has been sitting for a while now.
What, in the passenger floorboard area, would cause a buzzing noise when attempting to start a 96 TSi? The car does not turn over, and the last time it was started was a push-start.
I've got a little bit on the drivers side rear quarter, where it meets the rear bumper cover. Some surface rust in the spare tire well. A little bit of rust bubbling on the underside of the front lip on the hood. This is also a car that sat for 3 years.
If you go with LEDs for the blinkers, you will need to add a load resistor or the lights will blink quickly like one is burnt out. It's also possible that using LEDs will throw a bulb warning light due to the lower load.
I had a coolant leak on one of these lines, and it was a pain in the ass to replace. The part number for one of the hoses is MD195053. Hopefully by calling up the dealer and giving them this number, can get you started in the right direction. Good luck.
I just checked it, and all the connections and wiring seem to be fine. I have nothing to test it with, nor do I have any idea of how to and what it's numbers should be. Any other suggestions?
I just fixed a previous CEL, PO0400, which is the EGR system. Vacuum line was off the EGR. Had the code cleared and about a week later this pops up.PO1400, Manifold Differential Pressure Circuit, is this also known and the MAP sensor? Only thing I found on the net even remotely related to...
The oil pressure thing was most likely your sending unit getting wet and messing with the electrical connection. I have to say that of all the designs of cars and their sensors, Mitsubishi did a horrible job on their oil sending unit placement and design. Your second problem sounds dead on like...
Problem is you still really need that compressor to pull moisture out of the air. My A/C doesn't work right now, and even with the heat the windows fog a bit.
It's on the back of the intake manifold. Kinda hard to get to it seems, but supposedly a 12mm socket, and a ratchet with a 4" extension makes it cake. I need to pull mine and clean it. There is an aluminum gasket that might need replaced once removed.