Try this part number from Centric: 121.46048. $22.79 at Rock auto. 120.46048 for the premium rotor at $27.79. High performance also available. Look under Eagle Talon, it doesn't show under Eclipse.
I would use it anywhere I feel comfortable using non-synthetic oil (ie DD), but not in a high performance application where I want very high purity synthetic. If they can distill useful oil from the raw crap that comes out of the ground, I don't think they will have any trouble redistilling it.
As hard as it is, I would do something. Don't think of is so much as a sweet little old lady in her car, but as a loosely controlled two ton wrecking ball. Cars are more dangerous than we give them credit, I think.
Saving for retirement is a great idea, but you should also have a reasonable buffer in a very liquid form. I would keep a grand or two in the bank just in case and invest the rest long term. Then, if you get more money, you can invest that and keep your buffer fairly constant. You would be...
Have you even read the article? The first thing on the list is "Fake Engine Sounds" and has nothing to do with actual turbos.I think we can all agree that is a trend that needs to be stopped.
Run a cat and save yourself the trouble with emissions. It won't cost you that much power, and it will allow your engine to run more efficiently for daily driving.
This seems unlikely to me. I don't see how much lateral force could be transmitted from combustion into the head. There isn't that much surface area for the force to effect in that direction. I have a really hard time believing what force is translated into shear is enough to overcome the...
WTF Are you really this stupid? You are asking for a ban.We have no problem with speed, just not speed on the street, which is what you seem to be consumed with.
In my case the failed bearing did get really loud because I let it go for too long without fixing it. When I finally did change it, it was in such bad shape that it fell apart as I took it out. In regards to the crank pulley, I have no personal experience there. I know on the turbo engines...
My car made the same noise when the bearing on my A/C idler arm pulley was failing. I would start by checking all the bearings for the accessories and stuff on the front of the engine for wobbliness. You might even have to take the belts off and spin them to check. A bad one will have more...
Did you check the community colleges in your area? See if they have continuing/community education courses. That is where I learned and it worked out really well for me.
Here is another thread about this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/351273-2jz-gte-rwd-2g-gsx.html. A friendly reminder, the search box is your friend.
Check out this thread for a preview of how the remainder of this thread will likely look: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/263750-4g63-rb26-2jz.html.Long story short; you will need a ton of money and/or excellent fabrication skills - anything can be swapped with...
1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi
Max difference between cylinders 14 psiYou're numbers are ok except for the difference on cylinder 4 is pushing it.How sure are you that the wires are functioning properly? Did...
Assuming you are using stroker pistons, you need "stock" size rods that are designed to hold the amount of power you're planning to make. Are you using the 4G64 block, or putting the 4G64 crank in the 4G63? You need pistons matched to your choice of block.
I'm thinking that is something the driveshaft shop should know. I can't imagine they don't have a table that correlates shaft thickness and diameter to torque capacity. I would give them a call and ask.
The best system is a complete system from front to back. A cat-back (shorthand term used for an exhaust system that runs from the catalytic converter to the muffler) is the most basic exhaust upgrade. A complete system would include a high-flow catalytic converter (or eliminate the cat...
Since he has given you a warranty, I think you should listen to his suggestion. A quick search would have turned up this long thread on the topic: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/215733-engine-break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html.Many people report good results with the...
In that case, you need to check the journals for wear and make sure everything is still in spec, which it is very likely not. If you just replace the bearings without checking the specs and/or not knowing why they spun in the first place, you will likely find the bearings spin again soon.
Check with the vendors. For example, ExtremePSI claims to have OEM bolts.EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Main Bolts : Mitsubishi Eclipse (6 Bolt)
To post photos with photobucket go to the album page (in this case http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae226/Boomdeeze/Car/) and hover the mouse pointer over the photo you want to include. In the little box that pops up there is a spot that says "IMG Code". Copy that code and paste in to post.
WTF!? OD = overdrive. OD on means you have 4 speeds for increased fuel economy. OD off means only 3 speeds so RPMs are higher and more power is available.Read the wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overdrive_(mechanics)
If I were you, before spending all that money on maintenance parts, I would make sure the engine is in good condition. I would check compression and crank play. There are probably other things you should check too. All of those parts will cost as much as you spent on the whole car.
I would also recommend checking all ground cables after you do the cleaning. Use a voltmeter to check various points between the body/engine and the negative terminal.
They are the same, but you can also buy everything online from one of the many reputable shops that are vendors on this site. It would probably be cheaper to get it from one of the online shops and it benefits the community, but I don't know how many of them will sell to Canada.
That one has been debated a lot. Our cranks are nitrided, which creates a very hard surface that is thin. Some say you shouldn't turn a crank because you will cut through the hardened portion and end up with a soft journal surface. Most wisemen say it is fine to turn a crank one size smaller...
From what I have read, most people agree that reliability issues are primarily a function of improper maintenance combined with abusive driving. From the looks of your other cars, you won't have a problem with that. It takes someone who knows a thing or two to make cars that nice :thumb:.
I seem to remember an older thread stating that the Buschur numbers are outdated. Somewhere along the line Fidanza derated the torque capacity, but Bushur never updated their site. I can't confirm this, I'm only repeating what I remember reading in another thread.
I think they say stroker as a shorthand way of getting at the increased displacement, even though it technically isn't accurate because the stroke is still stock for that engine. Since the g4cs crank is what goes into 4g63 blocks to stroke them, it is kind of the same thing (the blocks are...
That kind of depends on your definition of rebuildable. If you are looking to do a very basic build and not have the block bored oversize and decked and align bored and all of that, then your pool of acceptable blocks is quite small. You will have to do a lot of measuring on the block you are...
Ok, I'm not an expert, but I think you have a few things confused. There isn't supposed to be a ridge at the top of the cylinder; it should be uniform straight through. Also, you at the very least need to hone the cylinder so the rings seat properly; it doesn't sound like you are planning to...