Bringing this one back from the dead.I picked up a selectable trans for my VR4. The problem I have is, the trans didn't come with shifter cable brackets. I tried the 91+ brackets and those do not work. So my question is what cables and brackets are you guys running? I would imagine as long as...
The clutches are the same for all 90-99 4g63 models. The difference is in the flywheel. But id recommend a new clutch as there is never any proof of the mileage on the clutch and pressure plate other than what the seller says
And your have your source for the wastegate teed into the blow off valve line? Big no-noYou need a vacuum source directly from the intake to open the wastegate. You need to run a line from your intake manifold strait to the wastegate with no interruptions. Then the wastegate will open at the...
Are you running stock injectors/maf? The compression ratio isn't that much difference. 8.5 on a 2g and 8.8 on evolution 9s. And that's not even completely accurate because of the difference in combustion chamber sizes between the two heads. If you are running a stock setup for stock boost on...
You can usually file for a lost title and it might take a little time but it should solve your problem. You willing have to call your local police dept and tell them you lost the title. They will come out and take your info and the vehicles info and run it to make sure its not stolen. After they...
IIRC, the 2gs have a stryofoam padding between the bumper cover and the fiberglass bumper to help support them and for light bumps. Its been a while since I have taken a 2g front bumper off that has never been off before. They are often not put back after the bumper cover has been removed.
That's what im using for a drain line on my 16g. But I only used 4-5 inches of the stainless line. The only thing I would recommend is using 2 45* fittings. I got a 90* and a straight fitting and it works fine, but its just an abrupt turn into the oil pan, which I don't care for.
Yes, that is for the timing belt cover. This one goes on the front (exhaust side) of the head and bolt on with 2 10mm bolts to the head and then the timing cover bolts, bolt onto it to seal up the timing system so nothing gets it
First thing: USE CORRECT SPELLING AND GRAMMER. Its in the rules that you agreed to when signing up on this forum. Your not texting your buddy.
Second: If you dont have the money to get the car running, then either hold onto it until you do, or sell it as a whole or part it out, if thats what...
I know this doesn't sound like it could be the problem since you didn't do anything with the ignition system, but I had the same problem with my old 91. It would run fine until it warmed up and then just die. It turned out to be the ptu. When it would get warm, something would open inside it...
Does anyone have any pictures of how the mounted their jay racing alternator relocation kit with the motor city reman alternator? I can't seem to figure out where to mount the tensioner and tensioner bracket on the back of the blockEdit: well I figured out where the tensioner bracket mounts...
Your rods are going out? Wth does that mean? Rods don't just start to go out. You either spin a bearings, throw a rod bolt, or bend a rod, or you could have a bad wrist pin. What makes you think you " have a.rod going out"? Does the car have a.rod knock or make any noise. Can you please tell us...
I would pull the timing cover and check your timing. When is the last time the timing belt and tensioner has been changed? Sounds like you possibly skipped a tooth on the timing belt
This should go in the regional forum located here: http://http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/detroit-area-dsm-forum/
I chose detroit because it was close to you/us
Well i guess good job on doing it yourself but im with Bud on this one. I would have left it and just painted the front bumper because now the entire car needs paint.
They did not come from the factory as N/T and AWD but it wouldnt be hard to do considering te N/T and turbo blocks are cosmetically the same. The question is, did he actually pull the motor and put in the N/T motor (9.0:1 compression) or did he remove the turbo, lines and manifold, and just put...
You have it backwards. You can't install a 2g head on a 6 bolt block with out drilling the bolt holes. You can however put a 1g head on a 7 bolt block with no modification, aside from cam sensors and things along that line. But as far as bolting the head to the block, it fits.
Nope, Im thinking of the 5.4L They are notorious for the spark plugs shooting out because the threads are not deep enough for the plugs. This inculdes the 4.6L and V-10 aswell though. Here is some proof......
http://http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62958
I wouldnt give him more then 4 or 500 for the car. Even if the motor was "rebuilt" you never really know. personally I wouldnt buy it, but if you really want it then I would say try to talk him down on the price
You are completely right. For some reason I was thinking backwards on the 1g 7 bolt. Thanks for correcting me:thumb:edited above post to show the correct information
It also has different bolting locations,but you could make it work. The 1G SMIC are known for corroding where the upper pipe connects. You could have it cleaned and welded if you have access to that stuff
The 7 bolt has a one piece main girdle and the 6 bolt has 3 seperate main caps. Thats the easiest way to tell, but all the head bolt holes on the 7 bolts are 11mm, where as the 6 bolts have 12mm holes