You're right, the carnage isn't pretty. Ask me how I know...:ohdamn:Definitely stop driving the car until you fix the problem. Before I knew it was a potentially serious problem, I ignored it and kept driving. Eventually, the nut let loose completely and blew a huge hole in the end cover of...

Listing of FREE DSM CD Files I can't take credit for this. I found it here.This forum along with the factory service manual, are invaluable resources when maintaining or modding your car. Some of our cars are approaching 23 years old, so they are bound to have problems. Start with a solid...

11/32 is actually smaller than 3/8 (12/32). And HeliCoil says 13/32 is the correct drill bit size which is a little bigger than 3/8. :thumb:

HeliCoil chartIf you drill the hole too big, even though the tap doesn't slide through it, your threads will be too shallow and weak. The 3/8 drill bit you used should be ok, but getting it started would be a little harder. The chart says 13/32 drill bit as already stated.

Once you get the tap started, turn it clockwise a little then counter clockwise to clear/break the bur that you create with the tap. As stated already, you can push the tap down into the hole with moderate force, but don't turn it too hard. And most of all, keep the tap straight as you turn. Go...

I once had the same problem and it turned out to be the head gasket. It took a while to find the problem, until I discovered that the car wouldn't push coolant at any boost below 18psi, but once I got over that, it pushed the coolant every single time. My car was also prone to overheating. I...

Before I recharged my a/c system it was difficult to hear my stereo clearly with all the noise from the 3" turbo-back exhaust and the windows rolled down. After the recharge, the stereo was much more enjoyable to listen to while cruising. Just some food for thought.

:thumb: I've done this for years and it works great. Get a role of gasket material from your local parts store (got mine from AutoZone), cut a piece slightly larger than the throttle body, place it over the throttle body and carefully cut it to shape with an Exacto knife using the throttle...

Did you check that the clutch start switch located at the base of the clutch pedal is being activated when the clutch is pressed in? I had a similar situation a few years ago when returning to my car after work. The car started in the morning, but would not in the afternoon. The starter did not...

+1 on the wire brush. It might just be coincidental, but check the alternator belt too. They have been historically known to squeal. I went through this last year too. I thought it was my power steering belt that was making all the noise, but it turned out to be the alternator belt instead. Long...

Open up the hood and pull the rubber hoses off the bottom of the wiper fluid nozzles and try again. If you get fluid out of the hoses, the nozzles are clogged. If no fluid comes out, trace the hoses back to the reservoir while inspecting for cracks or leaks in the rubber hose. If none are found...

You could try a combustion leak tester. Basically, it tests for the presence of hydrocarbons in the coolant. This would give you an indication of a head gasket leak or a problem with the cylinder head that is allowing combustion gasses to mix with the coolant. Another indication of a leak is the...

My goals were very similar to yours in terms of torque in my normal driving rpm range of 2.5k to 6k. I installed adjustable cam gears and simply degreed the cams (with degree wheel, solid lifter, and dial indicator) to the cam card specs. In hindsight, I could simply have dropped in the HKS cams...

Here is some information for you- AMS Infamous DSM Camshaft test | HKS | Crower| Jun | Web | Eagle Talon | 4g63 Cams. While I can't comment on a longer duration intake cam with a shorter duration exhaust cam, I can say that the HKS 264 intake/272 exhaust setup I have works great. Much better...

Ya, I put the original '90 ISC back in and it's working perfectly. Haven't had a problem with it since.

My Bosch wideband sensor currenly resides in the stock O2 housing location. It's been there for over a year without a single problem. I see 900 degrees C max. in the #1 runner on 91 octane, as indicated by my EGT guage. The turbo reduces some of the exhaust heat before it reaches the O2 sensor...

No, it's not normal for e85, but it is quite common with worn valve stem seals.

Something else for you to consider- I recently recharged my '90 a/c system with a product called Freeze 12. It's compatible with r12 and doesn't require a system flush or lubricant change. I measured my vent temp after the recharge and it was 50 degrees on an 85 degree day. I haven't had any...

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, as I have a '90 with only 1 O2 sensor, but I think you want to check or replace the upstream sensor. The downstream sensor is for monitoring the performance/efficiency of the catalytic converter.

+1 on the O2 sensor. Needs to be working properly to maintain proper air-fuel ratios during closed loop operation. This also helps the catalytic converter to do its thing properly.EGR is for reducing/controlling NOx emission, not hydrocarbons.

I bought a cheap Harbor Freight leak down tester that work great. Their only drawback is that the crappy color-coded gauge (green, yellow, red) that indicates low, medium, or high pressure loss only goes to about 15 psi max. Not much pressure for testing a cylinder for leaks and also the colors...

Perform a leak down test on each cylinder to see if you've got any leaks (pressure loss) at the intake or exhaust valves as well as the head gasket and piston rings.

While a compression test may show that you have adequate compression in each cylinder, I think a leak down test should also be performed when diagnosing a blown head gasket. If it's only going to cost you a case of beer to get it fixed, I'd say that's a no-brainer.

Up to a point, it's not the boost level that lifts heads, it's knock and detonation that does. Tune for zero knock and you will be fine at that boost level.

Without an overflow tank to catch and hold the expanding coolant that normally goes into it as the engine warms up and back into the engine as the engine cools off, you will be loosing coolant and sucking air back into the engine with each heat cycle of the engine. At some point your engine will...

Hydrocarbons are basically unburned fuel in the exhaust. I had a similar problem with high hydrocarbons in my '90 AWD that had 175k miles on the clock. My smog guy was kind enough to let me use the gas analyzer to check the exhaust after each correction I made. I replaced the spark plugs...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The stock 6-bolt head bolts can handle 25 psi. I know this from personal experience. I've even reused them a couple of times without issues. If you have to replace the head gasket, I'd say consider trying the ARP's but again, they may not be needed for your goals...

That thread wasn't specifically for a '90, but it's even easier on a '90 TB because there is no freeze plug to remove, just a circular cover with 3 screws securing it to the TB. From the bottom of the TB, remove the cover to expose the FIAV. Then using a pair of needle nose pliers, turn the FIAV...

By itself, 91 octane fuel will limit your power production considerably. It starts to knock at boost pressures around 18 psi or so which is compounded even more if you're still on a 14b because the turbo would be blowing a lot of hot air at that boost pressure. Without a way to adjust AFR's and...

I once pulled the MPI fuse at the battery to disable the fuel injection while priming the oil pump and head after a complete head build. Afterwards, I couldn't figure out why ECMLink wouldn't connect. Turned out to be the MPI fuse. Reinstalled it and voila, it worked again! Check your fuses...

YouTube - RC51 MotoGP ExhaustNot mine, but I have a similar Honda RC51.

When I was on pump gas with my e316g I ran 660's with fuel pressure at 43.5 psi and a good amount of 50/50 methanol-water thrown in. Injector duty cycles were about 85-90%. I'm now running e85 and the 660's way too small. I currently have FIC1100 high z injectors at about 70-75% IDC with fuel...

OP- verify that ignition timing is set correctly. Retarded/low ignition timing will put more combustion heat into the exhaust manifold and turbo and less into the cooling system. This could cause your manifold to run hot enough to glow.Also, make sure you don't have an exhaust restriction...

As mentioned, r134a and r12 are not compatible with each nor are their respective oils. You will need to have the system flushed before refilling it with either refrigerant.When I recently recharged my r12 system, I used a product called Freeze-12. It's compatible with r12 and though it's...

I'm looking for actual photos or scanned images of HKS 264 and 272 cam cards for a 1G 4g63 turbo engine. If you have these cards, please post images here or PM me. Thanks for your help.Merry Christmas!

+1 I seated my rear main seal at a different position on the crank and haven't had a single problem since it was replaced.

I know it's not one of the choices, but it's what I use and highly recommend- Alkycontrol. It's never given me any problems and has allowed me to run my e316g up to 26 PSI on pump 91 octane. It's a progressive system that came with stainless braid hose and AN flare fittings for tough...

My temp gauge only gets up to about half. I think that's pretty normal for a 190 degree thermostat. So assuming your coolant temp is up to the proper temp, but you're not blowing hot air from your heater vents, I would look towards the heater core and related parts as the problem.The...

If you have access to the ECMLink forums- ECMTuning User Support ForumsOtherwise, Darren at FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain probably still has a few pairs left. He parted out a used set and sold me just the 2 I needed. Great guy to deal with and fast shipping too.

What temperature thermostat did you use? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe stock thermostat temperature is 190-195 degrees.

Shimming a disassembled hydraulic lash adjuster is in essence, a solid lifter, i.e. uncompressable.Why do you assume that I'm looking for the cheaper option as opposed to the BETTER, easier to use and more accurate option?Maybe I wasn't exactly clear in my original post, but I'm looking...

I beg to differ. A solid lifter is absolutely necessary in order to degree a cam properly and accurately. http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/4g63-c...degreeing.htmlAlso, I won't be using these solild lifters to drive my car with. I'm just looking for a pair to degree my cams with. My 3G...

Does anyone know where I can buy solid lifters to degree my cams with?

You know, it is possible to sand a pulley that's spinning at 0 time per second! It would be stupid and extremely dangerous to work on or around the belts when the engine is on. The engine was off and the alternator was removed for better access to the pulley.

I ended up using the EGRT input to log my WB O2's with MMCD. I have not had a single problem doing it like this. There were no CEL's or driveability problems. I also unplugged the electrical connector at the EGR solenoid mounted on the firewall.I've since switched over to ECMLink and still...

I struggled with a similar problem for awhile. The belt would squeak on the first start in morning or when the car had been sitting for an extended period of time. Turning on the a/c, headlights and fan only made it squeak more.I discovered that after the belt would squeak, the alternator...

I've had my Bosch LSU4.2 WB sensor mounted in the stock O2 housing for over a year without failure. It's seen 91 octane as well as E85 and it hasn't skipped a beat.Based on information here, max exhaust gas temp for the Bosch LSU4.2 sensor is less than 1030 degrees C with an operating gas...

Please keep us posted on your progress and troubleshooting. I have a similar problem so I am very interested to see what the outcome of this thread is.Sorry, but I don't really have more to offer than what has already been stated by others. Good luck.

This man speaks the truth! Based on his recommendations, I bought the SBC SS pressure plate and TZ disk through TMZPerformance and I could not be happier with this combination!Pedal pressure is firmer than stock without being overwhelming even in LA stop and go traffic. The full-face Kevlar...

Did you do any recent maintenance or repairs to the car? Check for a large vacuum leak. Mine acted similarly when I forgot to reattach the vacuum hose to the PCV valve.