Still no success. I have completely returned my computer to stock trim to remove all traces of both evoscan and ecuflash. I have decided it has to be either a driver issue or an issue with the 2.5mm phono plug itself. Radio Shack doesn't have any 2.5mm male cords in stock so I'll have to order...
Still no luck I have tried everything I can think of and anything mentioned here with no change.I thought maybe it was an issue with my flash plug, it was not, i ran the flash plug straight to pin 79 of the ecu and still nothing. Same error J2534 err_runtime. I cannot figure this out for the...
It says in the bottom right hand corner Openport 2.0 com 4. When it is disconnected it just says no vehicle interface and the option to even read from ecu is grayed out.I was thinking of plugging the cable in to my computer and letting it install the drivers and then installing ecuflash...
Yes I am connecting the reflash connector.My log is as follows[19:43:41.484] EcuFlash Version 1.42.2595
[19:43:41.484] OS Version Windows XP
[19:43:41.484] Qt Version 4.5.0
[19:43:41.500] 56 memory models read.
[19:43:41.500] scanning for metadata models in C:/Program...
I have looked at all of those links I even downloaded the drivers you sent even though it says on the tactrix site not to download them if you are runing ecuflash. I have looked at everything and still nothing. Nobody in any of those threads came up with a conclusive answer. The subaru guys all...
Well as the title states I cannot get ecuflash to read my ecu. I have tried uninstalling the program and the drivers for the openport 2.0 cable and reinstalling them. Every time I get the same message about J2534 err runtime. I have no idea what the problem is, I haven't read anything about...
Thomas hae you had your wheels and tires roadforce balanced? I work on tires everyday and honestly the only way to get correct alignment on your car is to have your tires roadforced before hand. Each individual tire will have its own amount of lateral pull. Each tire will also be individually...
I don't know how most of you even used the couplers. I ordered mine about a year ago and had to buy real silicone couplers for it to work. Nothing wrong with the pipe itself, a little pitting and some casting flaws, but it does the job.
:banghead:I am trying to perform this swap on my 99gsx, auto if it makes a difference. Every guide I have read tells me to hook up L to a black/yellow wire. I do not have this wire.I have the two wire saturn connector so I have black wire and a black wire with a stripe. They could be brown...
The brake booster hose is fine just pinch it with your finger so you don't suck in too much fluid. This is how I did my old car and it worked exactly the same.
YOu must use a line wrench aka a flare wrench. A regular open ended wrench will destroy these fittings. Be careful, they can be a bear to get off bu with the proper tools you shouldn't be able to strip them out.
You won't need an afpr for a stock pump, or usually even the 190lph. LIke said above you are pretty much already at the limits you should be able to run 15-16 psi on a stock fuel system with a rewired fuel pump without hitting fuel cut. Right at about 15-16psi you are running out of that turbos...
I really hope you didn't bend the oil pan taking it out like that. Also that appears to be a dejon sidemount intercooler on the ground in that one pic, doesn't look like any stock intercooler I've seen
I would have not ground it flat, that seems like trouble. The easiest way to get it out is jam a whole bunch of wet toilet paper inside of the pilot bushing. Smack that with a dowel or extension. After a certain point wet toilet paper becomes incompressable and will force the bushing out. You...
Start with the throttle body and manifold only. Take off your upper intercooler piping. Leave your throttle body elbow on and connect your boost leak tester there. This will show if your throttle body, fuel injector o-rings, lower injector seals, or intake manifold is leaking. You will find...
I second the o2 sensor replacement. My car idled like crap, got horrible mileage and had a host of other little issues before i changed mine. Oxygensensors.com sells the denso replacements the cheapest i found. Don't use some crappy autozone o2 sensor, bosch and denso both make good sensors.
Make sure the fitting your get is 3/8bspt not 3/8bsp. I know the part is only a few bucks but can be tricky to find. What i did was cut the line for the stock metal oil feed and stole the fitting off of it. I filled the fitting with JB weld and it has been leak free for about a month now.
lsd rear, eprom, black on grey leather, clean as you can ask for, 2500$. What are you still doing on the forums you better go offer him 2000 and get rid of one of your other cars to make room for it.
I second the rest of the spoiler being black. Should have removed that antenna and filled it while you were painting tho. The side "vents" aren't too bad. Overall the car looks good, wheels are a lot beter good job.
All that work on the trunk just to toss some garbage dual speakers in there. I understand money is always an issue but thats like tossin an FP manifold, tubular o2 full 3 inch catback and tossin a t-25 in between it all.
Something looks wrong with that engine, I can't seem to figure it out. Send it my way and I'll install it to make sure its all good. I love it, sexiest engine I have seen in a while.
yeah thats wrong but i got it. i know the firing order for all ford v6's is 142536 but this was ###. Made me feel like a complete newb but I got it i hate these fords.
I have been working on this damn windstar for 3 days now, its really driving me crazy. I know one of you guys has to have a windstar. Mine is a 2001 with the 3.8 motor. I just really need a picture or a simple drawing of how your plug wires go on your van. I'm not sure mine are right. It starts...
IIRC rod caps are usually marked from the factory. Pistons on the other hand you are probably screwed. Actually if you think about it you are probably screwed on the rod caps as well since the marking will be on the cap itself and not the rod, you won't be able to tell which cap went with which rod.
This is exactly why newbie posting is restricted. You didn't even try to spell correctly, you didn't search at all, and I had to read your sentence three times to figure out what you were even trying to say. People will get on you about this all day, it's just how it is if you want help you have...
Oil squirters do not oil any bearings. all they do is squirt oil to the underside of the pistons to aid in cooling. Most people say you do not need them, I'd say if you aren't running forged internals they are good to have. If you are having your block machined anyway you should ask your...
I have seen plenty of boosted ka's and I agree when boosted they are better than the sr, but I thought we were talking best ever made. The ka24-t, or de-t was never made. The Sr could have been the better of the two but its shim over bucket valve setup is prone to float and needs adjustment...
4g63 is number one for sure. No love on this site for the Sr20det apparently tho. Thats my number 2, number 3 is the F20c. Ka24's never came boosted, not enough power stock to be in the equation great for reliability though.
Got it this morning and yes that is the same number as napa. The problem was they boxed it or labeled it wrong. The correct rad came today so I guess I am happy. I just hate the hassle of these places.
The person who posted about his timing belt breaking and not messing anything up has a 420a. If i am correct it is a non interference motor. 4g's are not, you break a belt you broke something else too.
I love removed and filled 2gb fogs. Thats about the only real exterior mod i want to do besides wheels and a front lip. I think it cleans up the front bumper so much.
I would love to order the aluminum rad if I could, but I can't wait right now. I know extreme could have it to me the day after tomorrow for 220, or even ebay in a week for 160 but I can't be without my daily. No ride to work just isn't gonna work for me. Re-ordered the rad before work today...
I really hate these places, napa, autozone, advanced all of them I hate them to no end some days. Ordered my radiator last night, and was told it would be at the store when they opened at 7:30. Hop in the moms van this morning and drive over. I get there and the radiator is actually there, part...
I do. I figure if I am going to google anything any question i have probably relates to my car and the first link it will give me will be for here anyway. I honestly need windows 7 and another monitor so I can just always have the site within seeing distance.
Even just a set of 3.73's should wake that car up a ton. I always thought 4.10's were a little overkill for a car especially if it see's a lot of highway runs. The rearend should definately be next. You can pick up a ford 9 inch rear setup for under two grand or find one in an old truck and do...
part number is MD620908. Any of the supporting vendors should be able to get you one with the part number. I would suggest extreme psi if you want it tomorrow, and jnz if otherwise.
The Evo3 Manifold Sells for less than a new 2g manifold, and only a little more than the ebay crap manifold. I think you should either go Evo3 or spring the extra money and get the FP which is probably about the best manifold available for our cars.
On tials the top nipple should always be left vented to atmosphere. I would suspect your problems lies somewhere else. Any leaks Pre Turbo? I have never seen the boost controller hooked up to the throttle body like that I would move it to the lower intercooler piping and see if that helps.
Yeah pretty much those are your only options for oil leaking that high. While the timing belt is off change the cam seals, you'll have to replace the valvecover gasket once you take it off anyway so kill both jobs at the same time 45 minutes max even for the worst mechanic.