I might have to change the relief spring back to a stock lenght one. Oil pressure rises when I drive 40 psi at cruising speed (45mph).

I just finished rebuilding my holset and changed the oil over to synthetic. I also removed my .078 oil restrictor thinking that it might of been too small causing premature failure. Oil pressure before at idle when fully warmed up was around 18psi now I am seeing only 10psi. I have no balance...

I'm gonna tear it down this weekend and see how it looks. Where can you get a -12an fitting that will clear the housing?

I'm running a -10 an pushlock. I was going to try a -12 an but couldn't find a fitting that would fit with out hitting the housing.

No I didn't test the oil pressure at the turb inlet, but I will now. I don't think oil contamination had any thing to do with it, I change it every 2000 miles. I changed it when installed and a few weeks later when I resealed my oil pan.

Just found out that I blew my hx35 after about 2000 miles and a .078 restrictor feeding from the oil filter housing has anyone else had this problem? My car started to smoke on the way home today after some spirited driving and when I took my intake pipe off the compressor wheel has crazy amount...

Problem solved it was a bad coil. I just bought a prosport wideband. I need to get off work early enough to get the bung weld on my down pipe. I also fixed the meth problem my shut off selonoid wiring came loose. Thanks for all the help.

I changed the maf last night, checked and closed the gap to .026 on the plugs, and checked the cas and the plugs are sparking. I reset the base timing to 5 degrees btdc.I thought for sure I had it fixed because when I swapped my maf out I found that my meth selonoid was not shutting off and...

I know the car didn't fix itself, I just meant it went away for a minute. I tested the coil packs but I'm gonna switch them out today anyways. My plugs are gapped at .028. Is there any way of testing the ptu?

Car fixed itself this morning on the way to work pulled hard at 20 psi of boost. Now on the way home from work back to no acceleration above 3000 rpms. I'm thinking I might have another bad gm maf, this is the 3rd one in two years.

I have a timing light so I can try the cas. There are absolutly no boost leaks. My plugs are gapped at .028. As far as boost I can't even get past 5psi without it breaking up like crazy. The last few weeks before my 18g blew it was starting to have a slight miss but nothing like this. I thought...

Haven't messed with the cas yet, I have another one I'm gonna try on it in the morning as well as another tps.Fuel trims are between 98 and 100, I haven't checked idc yet I will in the morning.

I have 750 fic injectors. My fuel trims are all at 100%.

I just finished installing my new holset hx35, now my car won't rev past 3000 rpms. I did a blt at 20 psi and have found no leaks, I tested my coils there fine, new wires, fuel trims around 100%. What else could I be missing, before my 18g blew it was pulling hard at 20 psi and now I get to 3000...

Sounds like the shift linkage on the trans is put on wrong. I had the same problem, was starting out in 3rd not first. One of the linkages was in the wrong spot and blocked me from shifting into first and second

I am looking to buy a complete 1g grey front seat belt set including the trim panels. If anyone has any for sale let me know I have money in hand and really want to get rid of my strangler seatbelt.

I do have the high pressure version. I checked the return line for blockage and the afpr is adjusted all the way out any more and the adjustment screw will fall out. I didn't have a problem with the other walbro when this setup was in my other car only differance is the high pressure 255.

I just got my laser running and after installing a walbro 255hp I can't get my base fuel pressure below 50 psi. I have a fuel lab afr and 6 -an from tank to rail. Do I have to run a bigger return line? Any help would be appriciated.

I bought a gvr-4 trans not nowing the differance for my 1g talon. Is there any problems I may have other than having a tall first gear? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The wire is to your oil pressure sending unit. Fix it and plug it in and your gauge should work. As far as the belt a rock or something could of got caught in between the pulley and the belt and tore it, especially if your missing the plastic guard. Its happened a bunch of times to me.

I had the same problem and used a bigger bearing to block the hole.

Does it have the factory fuel pump? If you have a bigger fuel pump like a walbro 255 you would run pig rich with out a afr.

You will be fine running stock or close to stock boost. I ran mine for years never had any problems. I upgraded as needed when I could afford it. Accelerates much better off boost with the higher compression.

I'm fwd and I spank the shit out of my buddies stage 2 srt4. Drag radials on the street and a quasilife work wonders. :hellyeah:

You can thread lock it or go to the vfaq ther is a mod you can do to the housing, drilling and putting a bolt in to hold the filter threads. Is it a 90 style housing?

You might just want to go and have your own exhaust made. I had a 3" with a vband down pipe made and it helps out with working on the car no gaskets to replace or leak.

You will need to upgrade your fuel system as well as your turbo. There are so many options your gonna half to search the forums and fined a setup that will work for your power goals. I am constantley upgrading and trying to make more power, a lot of trial and error. Your not going to be able to...

Fuel pump should be fine. I would run 92 octane or greater, turbo cars like higher octane.

Is yours a new clutch?

Theres no need to change your o2 housing until you change your turbo, your wide band gets its own o2 locatoin further dow your down pipe. I would just cut your upper pipe so it looks like my picture or the one posted on here.

Thats definatly the ac tensioner, but would have nothing to do with your motor locking up or catching on fire.

You still have to break the motor in, new rings must be seated if they don't seat properly you won't get good compression or stop your smoking. Lots of fresh rebuilds smoke like crazy for a few.

If your Bov is vented with a stock mas it will cause you to go pig rich in between shifts and slowing your turbos spool.

Don't bother I live locally and the guy is the biggest tool. He won't answer his phone and when he does he doesn't show up to sell you the parts you wanted and then won't answer his phone again. I would recomend going somewhere else.

I would try breaking the motor in first. Mine smoked like crazy for a while, I just kept driving it in all different rpms and then letting it cool down over night and repeated till it was gone. Rings are sometimes hard to seat. It could take quite a few miles. Did you recheck your torque on your...

Thanks I keep it spotless ever since the rebuild.

You don't need them.

Have you broke the motor in they will smoke a little till the rings seat.

Sorry I must of worded it wrong the throwout bearing does push the pressure plate and allows it to engage and disengage from the clutch itself. The throw out bearing can hang up when pressed and not release fully if its worn out or if the shaft it slides on is damaged. If the bearing doesn't...

Mines ported to 65mm, plenty of room.

I had the same problem and removed the front one and jacked the motor up a little and it finally went in.

Run it in blow thru it helps your turbo spool quicker with less restriction before the turbo. Also not so sensitve to boost leaks before the maf.

I got a snow kit and love it. It helped with knock and allowed me to run more timing, pulls like a frieght train when its on.

The colt lines are smaller than the dsm lines. You can just block them and run just the oil lines but would recommend getting some lines 4 a dsm and making them work.

A faulty temp sensor can also cause hard start problems, I had it happen to me replaced it and no more hard start.

Could be a bad throw out bearing not releasing all the way and causing the slip periodicaly.

Cracks at the tip of your injectors won't cause a leak thats what the seal is just above that. Migh be bad caps in the ecu, I just had the same problem and had to rebuild it.

You can get a timing kit that will have both belts and the pulleys with it. Also might need a new tensioner. The excedy isn't a bad deal for a stock clutch you can find them cheap on ebay.

I have 2 1g talons and they both have them.

I've got 2g npr pistons on 6 bolt rods with arps and run 22 psi all day long no problems with about 5000 miles on them. They were identical to stock and super cheap on ebay.