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Wiring gremlins can be the biggest pain ever...good luck. At least you got it fired up.

Sounds like a mess, and a personal choice to drive the car till something goes wrong, or take it back to them and see if they will warranty it. Cars are money pits! No way around it... They will drain the wallet as long as you have the need for speed.

Sounds like you need to get your wiring figured out first. That might solve some of your problems anyways. Good luck.

Well if this is the 3rd motor from the same shop...I think this is a hint hint scenario. No matter how much money you throw at them, they still can't build a good engine. If you don't mind the car being down, let them warranty it out. And ask them if they charge for tearing it down...

If you want to run more power later. Get bigger injectors. If you don't, as he said above, get 750's or 850's. Easy enough.

No matter what the problem is, not building boost from any stock turbo till 4k is wrong.

No you don't switch out the ecu harness wires. You splice into them so the new maf can see the computer and vise versa.

+1I agree. $50 bux, 3 pulls:thumb:$200 or $400 for a load test is crazy!!:banghead:

I would stay way away from 1000's or 1600's. That is way overkill and the driveability and idle quality are way less than 750's or 850's... I would go with 850's personally.

If you don't have any way to modify your stock ecu for a tune, ie safc, gm maf, dsm link etc, then they have no way to tune it anyway. So they would be lying to you...

I agree. Check your charge piping around your intercooler and see if there is any oil in the piping. Definite sign of a blown turbo if there is oil in the exhaust or charge piping...

Ok, well the misfire code is not a big deal. What does your spark plugs look like? Do a plug read. Is the tune good on it?I would not pull the head unless you want to sink more money in it. And if thats the case, you might as well just pull the motor instead of just pulling the head...

It is just that...they are testing power output of your motor, not changing the stock tune of the car. Me personally, definitely not worth $200!

Either way, too much lag... something is wrong.

I agree, slowboyracing.

3 is for exactly what it says. I would put it ON to prevent fuel cut.4 is for when you have an added fuel supply. ie nitrous, meth, propane, ect. I would turn it OFF, and not connect the purple wire.

I had the same problem. Ended up being the turbo was bad. Too much shaft play. Same thing...slow boost build around 4k. New turbo and all was good. That is way to slow. But also check the WG and boost leaks...

Does the distance between the bov and the gm sensor matter?... NoDoes the distance between the throttle body and the gm maf matter?... As long as they are not right on top of(next to) each other no. 6" + is good.Would rotation of the sensor itself affect AFR so much to make it run lean? No...

i would agree with 750's or 850's for driveability and idle quality for your said needs...

I wouldn't jump at the pump if your getting too much fuel. I would say tune, ecu, or maf first. Double check your GM maft settings first. Just sounds like you have the wrong settings personally.

I would drive it till it gives you driveability issues. That is considerably less compression in the one cylinder. Do you notice any vibrations or other issues? If they won't cover the motor with the warranty, and it was my car, I would drive it till it let go or till i got a misfire or a...

I agree with Calan and Twicks.Also, it could work for you and not someone else, or vise versa. I would definitely say to upgrade your internals for safety. As well as, your tune has everything to do with power output. You could run 50 psi with a shitty tune, drop the boost to 25psi with...

It is addicting. Once you hit your power mark, you always want more after. Good luck with your mods.

And why would you say that?

I just went with the evo3 mani for my 4g64

+1Where can we find this product??Got a link to a website?

Nice build. How long did it take you?

+1And never not Not block it off. 5 miles or an hour, either or they are not good outcomes. Listen from others mistakes.

+1Thinner oil, less oil pressure. Thicker oil more oil pressure.With thicker oil and a turbo app, make sure you let her warm up a bit before beating on it.And also, the stock gauges are "dummy gauges"... get rid of them. Always go aftermarket. They are too expensive for the basic ones.

+1If the cylinders carry the same compression across the board, and its only 150 cold, you have nothing to worry about. I also agree with making sure you either have someone to watch the gauge till it stops jumping or propping it up so you can see yourself. It will jump little by little at...

"unless im wrong black smoke is usually burning oil not running rich. your rings or a piston might be shot.""":ohdamn::toobad:Black is fuel. Blue is oil. White / Gray is coolant.

Good luck, seems like your on the right path.

Man, that looks like a market. I wonder how many other people are looking for some good bushings. I'm going to tap a couple resources, and see if I can't get some made.

So can you put it into gear at all without any grinding? Or will it grind? When you start it and it pops out, are you releasing the clutch or holding it down?

I didn't buy those personally, but they were on my buddies car, and they felt ok. It just takes away a little dampening. Definately a tighter feel.

If you have any questions about passing emissions, then just hook everything up to OEM/stock via the diagram above^^^

Do you have good pedal feel?

+1, if its stuck at 10.1 all the way up, then definately lean it up a little. Slowly but surely.

49 is awesome. The only problem is, if you go through Jackson, and into Calaveras, there are tons of cops!!!