Well if I had a first gen than that might be helpful. But I have a second gen. And inside the cas plate there is a cylinder type disc which triggers the cam sensor itself. Ignition is self adjusted there is no adjustments to it. When timing marks are lined up dowel pins facing up..the...
98 had mostly stock. Hard ic pipes, 16g turbo, stock injectors and aftermarket exhaustSo first off I been having issues with my car I can't for the life of me figure out. But I'm curious about this issue.I found ou my cam trigger disc or plate(whichever you want to call it) was 180 out...
Server misfire/subie sound and absolutely no power. Id be driving and it would literally decelerate as if I turnedthe car off..absolutely no throttle response nothing.
Yes im sure it's electrical. But may have fixed the after 45 mins problem. Still working on the spitting and backfiring under boost. Trying another set of plugs soon. And also ordered a new fpr.
Its a 98 gsx. Only codes I am getting are emissions related. I fixed the o2 code...I deleted all emissions from the car.Well new cam sensor...maf..o2...and still nothing has helped. So being i deletedthe emissions I also got rid of the purge solenoid(attached to the drivers side intake)...
Idk if this will work..heres a video of what its doing once it been running a while. Sometimes itll let me rev to 2k...4k...its random and as you see in video sometimes itll jsut dieEdit...guess its not a acceptable file
Yes i know..but the 95/96 ecu will take a bit extra to swap. If i remember right its easiest if link is installed but otherwise i believe i have to swap injector pins around and firing order around...or maybe its just firing order...cant remember 100%
I have a spare ecu...but its from a 95/96 and not even sure its good. Plus the ecu in the car is better than my spare(non eprom) and i have the black box.It is possible I damaged the ecu when i replaced my core support. Engine and trans was out but never unplugged the ecu while welding the...
Its driveable. But cant get on it. No i haven't seafoamed this motor. Not sure if previous owner has with this motor.I still need to swap coils but will soon. Not sure if this is relivant or not...but theres no change if I unplug he map/mpd sensor. Just tested that once it started to misfire...
Update...well ptu wasnt the issue. Swapped it before work...and still after about 45 minutes of running it starts to misfire and sound like a subi. Would a bad ics or iac whichever you prefer to call it cause this?
Sadly no wayto data log. And not sure if any local people will have what i would need. I do have the black box ecu..but nothing for requirementsfor logging anything
Cars practically stock. Hard ic piping and 16g turbo. This issue is fairly new. I swapped motorsback around Thanksgiving and it never had issues with long drives (drove to Michigan and back) 8 hour trip.The only issue thats same as before I swapped motors is the sputtering under boost. I do...
Thats when the subie sound starts is after a while of driving. But it goes away if I shut down the car and restart it seconds after. But does come back after 20 mins. Its like it only does it when hot. The sputtering under boost is always there. Its just the severe misfire subie sound and no...
I have a feeling it isn't. Sadly. Cuz it runs great and drives great. But the subi sound and massive misfire and complete loss of power once i been driving for over 45 mins yeah...doesn't make since to me.
Ok doing this frommy phone. But I'll try and be as detailed as I can. So when I start my car for the first time in the day it will start and run fine. Only issue I have is sputtering under more than a few lbs of boost. I know I have no boost leaks tested it 5 times now. But that isn't my...
Just curious. But what are black door panels worth and a black center console? I just picked up a project car...and it has black with grey centers door panels and a black console....my daily has them so might consider selling.
We tried 2 different mafs....he had put a new crank sensor in prior to my coming to help. When I checked the timing with the light it was a good 3 to 4 teeth off...but actual timing is right
Ok so i went to Michigan and helped a buddy with his car. And fr the life of us we cant get it to run with throttle. We literally spent a day working on it...when i first got there...it would barley start and stay running and would die with the lightest touch of throttle. After spending all...
Ahhh ok makes since then. So if i swap out TBs with one that has a p port...i can just cap it off then? I ask because mine needs a rebuild. ...but i picked up a spare that I'm gonna rebuild instead and just swap them out.
Ok so all 2g throttle body'shave 3 vacuum ports right? As far as i remember they do. Now mine only has 2....the third one (p) port is just open...nothing there...not even the nipple. I cant feel anything coming from it...is this normal or was it cut off/blocked or something
Well i found my culprit for my sluggish issue. A fuel injector got stuck so i went to fix it and replace the fuel filter. ...the line going in broke once i touched the filter....was damn near pinched closed....fixed the line and she pulls good now
Yes i plan to test the tps today or tomorrow. I did another blt and fixed the biss screw leak. I can hear a leak somewhere else but cant find it feel it and soapy water isnt working. Also noticed a pretty good exhaust leak...I have a feeling thats a good part of my issue.Ran another...
I don't think the 98 cam sensor is adjustable tho? Or am i wrong? I thought only the 6 blot cas was adjustable. I dont think its jumped a tooth...it shouldn't run if it had...or there would be internal damage.
So being the compression is a bit high on the car. If I run some seafoam through it that will help. Now what about if I leave the car sit over night with a tablespoon of seafoam in each cylinder? Would/should I suck it out before starting it the next day? Or should it not hydrolock the motor...
When i picked up the car it did have the cel light on. Checked the codes and 3 came up...cylinder 4 misfire. ..fuel trim bank 1 and tps malfunction. Cleared codes and hasn't came back yet. Ill see if i can locate a camera to look in the cylinder.
Yes i was worried about the compression test being that far off between cylinder 1 and 4. But dont think that would have caused my issue due to the fact its still at average compression/slightly higher compression than average.
Ok i just picked up a gsx. Its real sluggish after half throttle. Did a blt and 2 minor leaks one at the bov and one at biss. Also did a compression test... heres my numbers....dry/with oil...at operating temperature.1 170/1852 185/2003 185/2054 195/210Plugs are gapped right. Only...
Well finally got back in the dsm gamw. Its been a long time away. But picked my uo a fairly nice 98 gsx. Needs some rust repair and other work but dies run and drive....and its 99% stock.....only has a 1g bov. Traded my is300 for it. But happy to be back in the dsm world once again
Ok I also been helping trying to figure the issue out. He has a missing relay/sensor under the radio. its the g sensor. would that cause a no start? maybe triggering it to think the airbags deployed?here the part numbermb875678also these numbers are on itx2t21171
4914
it only spits n sputters after a hot start up. it does it as soon as you start it. and it only spits and sputters because I have to hold the throttle down to keep it from dying. Cold starts are fine no issues at all. after it starts when hot and spitting and sputtering is over it will idle and...
Ok Im gonna try and explain this the best i can. I have a starting issue when engine is hot. The odd part is it only does it when i have over 1/4 tank of gas. If I have under 1/4 tank its starts up fine.Heres what happens when its hot and over a 1/4 tankIt fires right up and dies. So...
Ok well i got a bit more into the car. Passanger side marker light was filled with water, no clue how but it blew the bulb. The wires didnt look shorted from what I could see. So I looks at the reverse sensor wiring and its fried from where it comes out the harness to about 3/4 of the way to the...
As i stated in the post I have already bypassed the dimmer(jumper wire). Yes usally no tails is a fuse. I pulled all the fuses that are related to the lights tripple checked them swaped them around and nothing still. Ill get more deep into it tomorrow but with only a flashlight its no easy to...
Ok i have literaly tried everything under the merge post for this. Jumper wire didnt help, all fuses are good, swaped relays around, cant find a short. I still have the stock radio. I still have parking lights but no tails, hvac, cigarette lighter dont work and the side markers stoped working...
so its not injectors ill have to rewire jsut change the plug wires around?damn i feel like a moron.......yeah it just was firing order....i rewired injectors for nothing lol. thanks guys