Any update? 👀

Did you ever find anything out? https://www.evoscan.com/evodroid

*update* It was the neutral safety switch... ordered a new one, fired right up.

Well that was quick :D I'll try the starter relay in the morning... thanks!

(Every thread is for M/T or M/T swaps.)I have a no-start issue, and I want to see if my NSS is the problem, by eliminating it from the mix. Can't just disconnect it I guess._| Replaced ignition switch _| Replaced starter relay _| Starter solenoid connector is plugged in beneath thermostat...

So not long after Whyght posted the part number (MIT70483) of the "right" starter, I actually found one on eBay. 6 years later I finally installed it. *spoiler* It was grinding and squealing like a mofo on startup. I'm assuming it was in the process of getting sheared off like the one I just had...

Pretty nice shots... what lens are you using for the track shots?Most favorite lens purchase to date?

I realize this is 5yrs old, but for future reference to those who have purchased a 2g JDM 4g63 engine.You can keep the JDM bracket / power steering pump on the engine, and use the following belt with no modifications, which was in stock at my local AdvanceAuto:Dayco 5040250 It is a 4...

*update update* Forgot about this thread.My starter took a dump last year, replaced it with one from Advance Auto, works fine.It was identical to the one I had been using from my original junk engine.

Damn, all the way from 2004 :coy: Thanks!

As the title states... I have both of them, and eyeballing them, they look visually identical. Are the 2g turbo ones interchangeable?I saw a Pro-King one on eBay stating all models are interchangeable, even the non-turbo, but I can't see that being true.

I took it back to the shop that rebuilt it all, and they did say the torque converter was bad.Also, they said there was surface rust on all the steel parts inside the trans. I'm not sure how that happened?

I had my trans rebuilt last February due to failed 3rd/4th gear... it was a "custom rebuild" at a local shop. Also rebuilt the torque converter, and cleaned/flushed out the trans cooler.Fast forward ~7months. I let the car warm up at least 5mins, even in summer. So, Septemberish rolls...

I found this thread while googling, and I'm gonna necro it to give it closure, and show the difference between flexplates.I also purchased a complete "jdm" engine, that I later discovered is from a Mitsu RVR Hyper Gear. (It came with the turbo/ecu/alternator/etc.etc.)I'm sure you know by now...

2nd row of fuses, 2nd one down (under green 30A) is the 10A power door lock fuse , which you are missing :DAlso: 3rd row, top fuse, you have a 30A, it's only supposed to be 20A (sun roof) 3rd row, 2nd fuse down, there is nothing on the cover, and you have a fuse in there. The other 3 blank...

Well aware of that from the other 40 people who posted the instructions :thumb:It appears my [Security] light does not come on when I lock the doors. :confused: I know for a fact that it used to work, and the kickpanel fuse is not blown.This is most likely my problem, but I'm not sure why it...

I'm having the same issue... my doors do not lock/unlock at step 2. No aftermarket alarm, blah blah etc. :banghead:I did buy new door lock actuators off eBay, but I don't see how that would muck anything up.

It was my CPS, it was cracked/broken nearly in half.As seen in #3 here:

heh, I have the exact same problem... damn p0340. My Palm didn't crash when it threw the code though.Can't wait to tear into this...blah :)

yesssss! thanks! How come this never came up in a search? I must have used about 10 different configurations of "3g* / washer nozzles / windshield nozzle" etc... blah.Oh well :D

I remember reading somewhere, that 2g's could use the 3g windshield wiper nozzles, which spray the entire windshield in the fan pattern, rather than our stupid thick 2-stream pattern.Anyone remember the part #'s? I'm not sure if it was year specific or not, so I don't want to get the wrong...

The driver side axle also needs the 2 bolts removed that holds the carrier bearing, in order to take the axle out. They are by the A/C compressor mount, very tight fit in there, and a PITA.Also, I only needed to take off the axle nut on each side (besides carrier bearing bolts on driver...

oh lol... no, I didn't. The car would still start even if there were vac leaks. My brothers car had half the emissions hoses off and it still started up/ran like ass, but it still idled and wouldn't die.I already thought of that too... checked every possible hose/stock ic pipe/intake, etc...

Yes.I didn't do a compression test because the battery isn't really at full power and would give false lower readings right?Can't measure the airflow because it doesn't run long enough to get a reading (1-2seconds of lumpy half-dead idle)

Short answer, no, the s-afc will not. rar.... this isn't about venting, go find the other 5,000,000 threads on the subject. :thumb:

Trust me, it idled flawlessly :) But yes, it did run alot richer from the unmetered air.I untaped & checked/retaped every single wire that was used for the S-AFC, I've installed/uninstalled one more than once. There's only 8 wires to solder in, so there really isn't much to uninstalling...

Because it's from 2yrs ago... not 2 days ago when I returned it back to stock. :rolleyes:And besides the fact that automatics can run just fine without a dump tube as long as the intake is capped off.

WTF It was never off in the first place, I'm not a atmosphere venting noob.

You know how when you turn the key to 'ON' and all the lights come on/go off as usual... well, my Check Engine light doesn't come on AT ALL during this time (or at all).I can start the car, but it will die within a second or two. I can keep it running (crappily) by holding the rpm's at...

I know they don't go into each other. The large one in front is like [--¦] while the one further back is [--]I hooked up a logger and got: ----------------------------------- P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) ----------------------------------- I didn't...

*edit* ugh... can't edit thread titles? ...WHAT, not Whare.. lol[Car - '96 TSi AWD A/T]The plugs are by the fusebox on the interior. I think one of these has to do with the M/T... but I don't remember having 2 unplugged, and the Talon will not run, it stumbles bad, then dies. With the key...

Done it 5 times now. :thumb: The only bolt that still gives me trouble is the PITA inner bottom one. :mad:Much easier going on than off though.

It shouldn't be moving -that- much if you copied the original?

Yea, what they said ^^^The particle board is like 1/8" thick. Doesn't even hold up to the weight of my skateboard. :notgood:

After removing my spare, the fabric cover thinger sags down when anything sits on top of it... anyone fab up some kind of support for this to sit across where the spare was?

Yep, runs & drives fine. It's just useless emissions junk on the 97+ that they didn't use on the 95-96. :p

more gas + fixing 4 uncapped vac lines = purrs like a kitten :D

well whatever it is.....it's irrelevant.I found 4 vacuum leaks, purrs like a kitten now :)

What are the differences between the early 95-96 engines & the 97+ ?We're 95% done with an engine swap. We put a '95 into a '99, had to swap the intake cam, but that's pretty much it. It fires up & runs, but not very good, it stumbles alot, and then wants to die after about 10 seconds. If...

the 2 with the red arrows are for the a/c, I just included them because they come out of the same section of the harness.Just 2 wires, red & green.I don't have this plug on my '96 Talon, and it's not in the donor '95 Talon either. It actually fires up & runs, but stumbles/idles pretty badly...

We did a '95 engine swap into a '99 GSX, it doesn't plug in anywhere. Not sure if it's even needed?

I'd go... but they don't have breaded mushrooms :notgood:

If you call 14-18mpg decent :rolleyes:

Starting a sentence with And is bad grammar, twice! ;)

"wel if u no wut im talkin abt den i dont hafta spel ne thing out i can jst do lyk evry1 else n jst abbrv stuff cos its fster n it looks fyn lolololzz im a dum fuk"Two more that I -hate-sry =/= sorry :mad: no =/= know :mad:For all of this, if you're texting, it's fine. When...

If you're paranoid, you should really solder the connections too if you haven't. But yea, it only needs power/ground/ecu plugged in/key turned,- in order for it to turn on.

Heh, totally forgot about the system.How can you tell how many points you've gotten?

heh, I did it last year...looks 100x better.

:tease: Your cack, while you sarcastically berate the next newb with your left hand on the keyboard.You know it gets you off ROFL

I love being right :rocks: :D