Shep Stage 3 with welded diff and powdercoated case. Just refreshed end of last year with all new synchros. Comes with stock tcase. Both are 97-99 ratio which can be used on any 2G. Buyer pays shipping and PayPal fees. I can deliver at the shootout at no extra charge. -$2300 or reasonable offer
You have a Hyundai valve cover, those bolts will not work. They are made for the factory valve cover. For that valve cover you are suppose to use studs and nuts.
Quite a few updates since my last post on here. Head got installed, cage got finished, parts got broke, etc.10 pt cage from Kens Kustom Chassis all welded in and passed IHRA certificationWent out to the Shootout and unfortunately had nothing but issues after rushing to get the car...
Finally made it to the track again a few weeks ago after breaking an axle the first pass out this year. I got 3 passes in but unfortunately had issues getting into 2nd gear each pass. I assumed the first 2 passes that it was just me being a little rusty and not having the clutch fully depressed...
That would work just fine! Yeah it can be some tough stuff to get it to go where you want it.Thank you! Yeah the bronze and purple do look good together :)
Unfortunately not, the battery box come with 2 studs for the tie down which I have run through the spare tire panel which secure the box and battery. The cables come out the slots in the lid of the box and ground goes right to the back of the hatch and power is secured to the chassis running up...
Stock as in stock 6 bolt shortblock. Kelford 272's. I currently only have EVO springs in there so we were getting a little valve float at 37psi. I plan on putting my Kiggly springs in for peace of mind but don't plan to rev any higher in attempt to save the rods.
Got my Bosch 1300's in along with my 850hp KLM Fabrication 2G direct bolt in short route intercooler. Took it back to Dave Katz at EFI Specialties and made 504@27psi on 93 and 645@37psi on C16, still on the stock block! Going to the track this weekend to feel out the extra 200hp from last year...
You ordered from us and did not pay for just the baffles. Our baffle price is to remove the factory ones, blast/clean the bottom and weld in Kevin's baffles. So the 3x price includes all of the labor/welding to be clear.
No stick with ECMLink, it's the best bang for buck. Also, they can convert your non eprom to eprom. http://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=57
Yes 500 through an auto should certainly put you in the 10's. Some people don't know how to drive or how to set the car up right for the track and run a lot slower than what the car is actually capable of.
Not the best way to judge trap speed, too many factors. Probably around 400 through an auto. I made 440@26psi through a 5spd.2900 or so is fairly easy but then you're adding the cage weight on top of that. Removing a bunch of the stuff you don't need is the easiest/cheapest way to do it...
I'll post what I ran 10's with this year on a stock block with 93 pump gas
- Turbo/manifold: Borg Warner S256 T4 Divided 1.22 Housing and top mount manifold from STM. May be a little laggy for a street car but it did exactly what I wanted and really pulled up top, kept making power all the way...
New year, new goals!S366 sx-e installed. Switching injectors and switching to C16. Over the next couple months it will be getting a 10pt cage and trying to find a few things to cut some weight.Also picked up some FD RX-7 wheels for my street tires that we coated Matte Bronze.
Last time out I had to rev to the rpm I wanted and try to hold it there since 2 step was giving me issues. I launched at 7k instead of my normal 6300 and it hopped super hard in the rear, so much so that I swore I broke the rear end. Got back to the pits and no clunking, turned fine without...
Well been a good while since I've updated this, mostly because I've been out racing it. I've been to the track 5 times with it now and made some major headway. First pass was at the DSM Shootout which was great to finally do after all these years going there. Unfortunately got locked out of 2nd...
Got the valve cover back from the welder and got it coated right away:Got the t-stat and hose finished up (now realizing I put the fill cap on the wrong side of the tstat so it needs redone again)Adam and I worked until 4am getting both of our cars ready to be tuned the next dayOn my...
Vin plate from @jdxnc installedFinally back outside after a year in the new shop and looking super filthy.Almost finished installing everything for the final timeOur neighbor got it all cleaned up, buffed and waxed. Certainly not perfect but far better than I imagined.Last piece to...
Finally after quite a few years, she's running again!! There was definitely some anxiety not knowing anything about the bottom end except what checked out on the stand and the first time doing a wiring harness without a single issue so far.VIDEO
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Interior is almost completely back together and finally starting to feel like a car now and not so much a project.NRG Quick release setupHad to mount the bumper and fenders to make some brackets for the intercooler, the length of this project really shows in the dust.
Finally got my Magnus Intake Manifold back from polishing and added a Ceramic clearcoat so it'll never need buffed or polished againIntercooler mocked upBoost, oil and WBO2 wired in and got powerNext we have a new steering wheel going in, interior is getting put back together and Calan...
Finally have power after 3 years! Next I'll be wiring in the last 2 gauges, draining the tank and testing a bunch of the electrical connections to make sure they're getting power.
Had some issues bleeding the brakes as I wasn't getting any fluid to 2 calipers. Narrowed it down to the prop valve or master cylinder being the issue. Got a spare prop valve and sure enough the one we were using was done for. We did powder coat it so I believe the issue was the heat required to...
Got the harness finished up with some Ron Francis loomBattery cutoff installedGetting ready to install the battery and run all the wiring so a little before and after in the hatch
It's where the passenger airbag was behind the cover. There really wasn't any "splicing" Plugs were deleted or moved inside. A comment I made to someone else that asked the same question "Best bet is to first spread the harness out good and label every connector from the firewall forward, don't...
Got a few things done tonight.
-Brake line to 3G master got cut, bent and re-flared to a double flare
-Installed front brake lines
-Ran and soldered the WBO2 in to run narrowband sim
-Dis-assembled cam sensor to powder coatLots of little annoying shit to knock out (lines, sensors, fittings, etc)
Thanks! We're not even close to being started in that department yet though ;)Harness is back in for final fitment, just need to loom it all and strap it down. Super pleased with how this came out!
Sorry to see this Aaron, hope you can get it put back together under budget with plenty of time to do some racing this year. I think you made the right decision with where you're at in life, I would have done the same.
Turbo kit showed up today so I got right to work putting it on to start mocking up all of the oil/coolant linesTook the harness back out after deciding to do it myself for the time being and delete everything I don't need and shorten up what I can
I'm not touching the alignment, I have adjustable rear toe arms and ingalls camber kit. It's going straight to an alignment shop for it's first trip out of here.
You're probably looking at the CAPS program. You need to match the number on there to the items on the right and click on them. In there it shows you the part numbers.