Yes thats correct. Doesn't always work that way. But when I got my car it was unplugged, plugged it in and idle started jumping, unplugged it again til I bought a new one. But that was also a 1g
Thanks for all the help guys finally got it running just need to adjust timing and change a few other parts so I can drive it. Turned out to be the cas and coil plugs being backwards and the plug wires werent right. Previous owner had them on 1234 :ohdamn:
Yeah, pisses me off that something so simple kicked my ass so long, not the whole problem though, popped once but still not starting, going through it tomorrow. But yeah 1g coil is close to 2g crank sensor and vice versa buy same connector
After looking more into how the wiring harness could be hooked up wrong I found the connector for the coil and the connector for the cas harness are the same but with different colored wires. According to the diagram I got from mitsu the coil is a black/ white blue/red and blue/black. This is...
It cranks with the key now, had to cut Into the loom as they were on opposite sides of the engine. Gonna kick a buddy in the nuts tomorrow. Now on to other things, it's still not starting
Just checked and the CEL does turn on and back off after a few seconds and I do hear the relay click when key is turned off.I also checked again to see if I have power at the black/yellow wire coming from the starter relay again with key in start position and I do, as well as hearing the fuel...
This is the harness i have and how it is wired currently, the CAS i have is from a 91.I will try this, i know the CEL does come on but im not sure if it goes after a certain amount of time. or do i remember hearing a relay shut off after turning key off.
ok guys im not new to DSMs just been a while and after 2 months of searching threads and not finding answer im looking for help. I have a 99 gsx that ran when the original engine locked up, i put a 6bolt in it that ran when pulled from another car. turning the key it will not crank over, jumping...
when mine went bad it was reading 280 no matter whative had the same problems you have when it gets under 15 degrees or so, changed what you have with still no luck, ended up changing the gas i was using and i havent had any problems the last couple weeks, even this morning it was in...
ive been having problems with mine for a while when it gets cold, changed the coolant sensor which was bad but didnt change anything, plugs, wires and a finally a fuel filter fixed it, for a couple days then i had to do another one but it seems good now :thumb:
i bought prothanes for my 1g and didnt not have this problem, also the front mount was a solid insert like the rest, not the 2 piece they showed on the website. mine was done in july of this year
its worth a shot, but first try to loosen the drivers side mount from the fender, lift the engine slightly and retighten and see if you still have the vibration. i did this and mine went away
you contradict yourself so much you made my head hurt trying to understand that WTFif you look he drives a 1g which you CAN NOT rent a code reader for. his car also show no check engine lighthe got the factory replacement, not a universali believe it has to do with the ECU. the IPW...
do you have any way of checking what your engine is actually doing besides the boost guage? do you have a logger so you can see the knock counts? if not i'd invest in one of those before thinking about upping the boost. knock kills engines
a couple months back right before one of the storms, dont remember which, someone posted a pic of their black 2g eclipse that was taken right before the storm with it sitting kinda sideways on the road with a bunch of trees and what looked to be a ittle town in the background. i had that as my...
most of the time traffic offenses wont hurt you when it comes to a job, but that last one might hurt ya. just dont try to hide it, that would hurt you more than just telling them