H@xtGSX: If you were ever to get anywhere with this you would have to just do it, seems as most people commenting have no creativity or no sense of innovation, there is no thoughts out side of the box and no suggestions to help you move forward its only what they know of now as all that can ever...

Have you ever tried it? And do you have any knowledge to backup that statement? It seems as you don't due to your ignorance to how a turbine works and the power of steam.

Who said anything about injecting water into the exhaust? But yes as long as the shot was kept short the metal would keep its energy I'm guessing, i think it would require more then just copper pipe wrapped around the down pipe as well, you would need a pump to push the water into the pipe and a...

Its hard to say if it would work or not with out going through a ton of thermodynamic calculations or actually doing it, but i could see it working. First off i don't think its pressure that drives a turbine its the mass flow rate of the gas or steam, pressure is just a measure of resistance to...

I heard if you degree them perfectly you can make even a 280 sound almost factory, im not 100% about that though.

Absolutly no boost leaks and i have a good tune, it took me most of the summer to get just the way i want. Its ever since i put on the bc 280's, hx35 and the jmfab smim it lost all hope brake boosting at its current stall, but thats expected with those mods since i gained a crazy amount of top...

Im at 24 psi spiking up to 26 near the end of the track, how does speed density help my launch?

yeah it has the stock converter, only trans mod is a shift kit.. Just tried bumping the timing to stupid levels with no success, so none of that. And fuel was on the lean side when brake boosting. Ill take the advice and get a restall and start at a 50 shot. Stall wise i was thinking of a 3800...

So I tried my hand at the track last night just to see where my car was at, and found out how slow it really takes off, i ran 15.6 sec with a 60 ft of 3.86 sec... My mph was decient at 110 but now Im stuck trying to figure out how to get my car to spool from a stop. I tried brake boosting to get...

yeah because with the stock maps and only 15psi knock should almost be none exsistant. I bet it was that knock sensor, but you could turn down the boost just to be on the safe side for now.

Or go to ecmlink's web site and watch the tutorials on setting up idle and cruise tune, but first make sure everything else in in spec, thottle getting full travel, tps adjusted correctly, temp sensor in working order, isc is working and biss adjusted properly, spark plugs are proper temp and...

How much boost are you running and do you have a wide band you can log and what kind of fuel? I know from my car that on 94 pump gas at 24 psi i can run 10.5-10.8 a/f but i have considerably less timing then your map.

:banghead:Now i feel like quite the noob, you guys were right just a simple re calabration and its working again. Thanks for the help much appreatiated!!

100% its not the sensor, its maybe a month old and like i said in dsm link it was cycling fine and my logged wideband readings were correct its just the guage that out of no where is not reading properly the rest of the system seems fine besides the serial cables being chewed up.

So last night my guage of my Lc-1 went wild, it would read from 7.4 to 22.0 and bounce every where in between. It would then get stuck at a random number and not move but the wierd thing is it has not thrown a code and using link i checked to see if the o2 sensor might have been messed up but...

Hey guys so i have my wb logged now and iv been playing around with different fuel and timing maps that tom had put up, and noticed the evo modified timing map is terrible. I also read that the 1g map is bad to, so my question is what do you guys run? Im guessing the 2g map? And as soon as i...

69 celica or a 1993 rx7 ither would be SICK

So basically the sliders are kind of hack, like an safc. And i thought using both the timing and fuel tables would be better since they have the load factor as well.So just to make sure iv finally got this, i would change my MaxOct DA table values to what i would like to see during a pull...

Yeah it doesnt line up with the MaxOct table because i adjusted the fuel sliders in that range by taking away 10% it lined up before i did that. I know you can adjust by the table or the sliders and everyone said the sliders were easier.

Ok this is as good as it gets so far as far as my logs go, this was in drive from 3k to red line, i took some fuel and more timing away and bumped up the boost to 28 psi to get to this point. I also did what snowboarder said. I still havent had the chance to log the wb unfortunitly, but i...

Or couldn't i just run the brown wide band wire to the rear o2 sensor wire on the ecu?"Scott McIntyre provided the following information on our user support forums for his install of the LC1 into the front O2 sensor bung. He uses the kit's narrowband output (analog 1) to drive the front O2...

It was first, second and third, third was the last one when the line popped off, but ill get all that cleared up fix the wide band issue and get another log.The codes were the o2 sensors since the back one is gone and front is the wb sensor, and two random ones i wasn't sure about maybe i...

Took another log today after pulling some timing and it took all knock away at around 25 psi, havent touched fuel sliders yet though still running in the 10.5-10.8 range and it felt strong. I probly will take some fuel away if my new log looks ok or add more boost. Also i tryed finding the...

Ok ill pull some timing and fuel and go for another pull, so percent wise how much fuel do you estimate i should pull? Im not sure how sensitive the sliders are. And another thing if im looking for more boost i would turn it up first then tune accordingly correct? I have my wideband wired into...

Im not to sure how to log my wide band? I do have it hooked up to simulate a narrow band and wired to my ecu. I watched it through the pull and it stayed at a constant 10.8 - 10.5 which seems a bit rich. Boost estimate is dead on and a/f ratio estimate is close under a pull and dead on cruising...

New idle log, fixed tps and lowered airflow per rev my car is auto so it should be a bit higher then a standard. I dont have a working ISC, or one at all so i did no log it. And i included a WOT pull that i need some advice on.

same deal

I rock the auto, # 1 upgrade though would be a stall, as soon as you get a bigger turbo and cam, the car it almost doesn't move from a stop.

This is my first time with link and tune on the new set up, just want some advise on how my logs look. Both idle and cruise attached, and i threw in a log of me messing around seeing a tiny bit of knock. Thanks

For anyone who cares i went and bough a new sensor from vw as per the manual and it seems to have solved my problem, still have to drive it a bit more to make sure but so far its still working :thumb:

Yeah its ether damaged or over heating, especially if its a bosch sensor i guess there only rated to <900 degrees. The normal ones can stand 1700 degrees, so ill try switching the wires and hopefully that fixes it :barf:. Thanks for the help btw snowboarder.

Yes i only have the yellow wire running to the front o2 pin on the ecu. I tryed taking off the front o2 simulation, but my problem still persisted? I found out that it blinked a code? It blinked 8 times with a 2 second pause. I read that it meant the sensor was over heating with would make sence...

So the yellow wire IS connected to the front o2 pin, so i shouldn't have to simulate narrowband. Its just really weird i can idle for ever and the wb keeps working and cycling but as soon as im driving for say 5 minutes, the cycles become longer then it stops all together untill the car is shut...

Mine didn't die it just stops working when the cars driving but i can turn the car off and restart it and it'll work fine again. You should just send yours back to manufacture, iv had mine 2 years and its still working.

Im pretty sure i have the yellow wire connected to the front o2 pin on the ecu and i selected front o2 on the link where it says (used for narrow band sim) im pretty sure thats right?

So I used my LC-1 to replace my stock front o2 and it seems to work well at idle but as soon as i try driving it starts to quit then finally quits all together and reads 7.4 on the guage as if i just cycled the key off and back on? I have a log attached its probly gonna look pretty bad since its...

I took my very first log of my first start up on the new set up (in profile), everything seems acceptable except for my MafRaw and Maf values? Take a look..

Its not surging, its the bov its self thats making that noise i also have the hks ssqv.

Looks great so far! How much did it cost you id be very interested in the same cage.

yeah that what im still trying to figure out to, every time it does rain my vc fills up with water and it drips on the mani to. I could put baffles or something to catch and divert the rain but then its blocking the heat in?

Yeah I just picked up the forward facing ofh so it does fit, I made the flange out of a slab of 1/2 thick steel plate, then cut it with a plasma cutter and cleaned up the cuts and surface with a belt sander. If you guys ever do any fab work GET A BELT SANDER. Ill probly end up changing...

Best i could do for a front view next one will be of it painted and better angles.

Made this on the weekend, flange and all, over all im pretty proud of it seeing as i suck at fab work, but i still do enjoy it.:hellyeah:

At least you know its working! I have to finish it up and paint it so ill do that before its done then, thanks for the suggestion.

yeah your hood gave me the idea if i remember?

^ haha agreed

The waste gate is a turbosmart 35 and the bov is the newest HKS ssq and yeah i did the vc my self i just shaved it then painted it flat black with duplicolor flat black then polished her up!

Thanks bud! Im gonna go get it all hooked up asap then.

Its ok if it gets wet?

So iv finally got a chance to work on it again and i found out that my Lc-1 unit wire to o2 sensor, is not very long, only about a foot? If i did put the Lc-1 o2 sensor in the front o2 position the actual Lc-1 unit would be under the hood. How did you guys get yours to fit?