Long story short, I dropped a valve and it killed one of my pistons. Salvaging the build I want to reuse as much as possible. I ordered a new mahle piston to replace the one that died. The new piston has a thicker wrist pin 22mm I believe. The old one looks to be 21mm. So my rods accept a 21...
Hello All, just moved out to Zebulon, NC from Indiana. Just saying hello. Hit me up anytime if you need help with something. I have worked with ECMlink some and rebuilt an engine or two in the past.
Not really sure what you guys are getting at considering the FST doesn't even look like an STI. Also the whole point of my post was about me working back into getting my 90 GSX fixed. I really had a longing for this forum and then the last two posts before this one make it look just as childish...
Well, im missing this forum too much lol. Im going to try and get my 90 all painted up in june. I already have the paint bought for it. It's going to be Hyper-Blue. The FocusST.org forum is killing me, it's like being in the n00bie section all day on every post. D:
Is the middle section perforated? They do look like they have been recovered. I bought gray leather ones to be done. I halfway like the eclipse logo on there. Good find nonetheless.
My suggestion on a first build would be have someone trained show you how so you do not end up building it again. First hand bad experience here. It's not rediculously complicated and it will run, but a engine that last takes alot more attention to detail and the tools to make the measurements...
Upgrading to newer style injectors from the old DSM injectors does affect gas mileage due to better atomization/ angle/spray patterns being used today. My 90GSX was getting 25mpg mixed driving with a crappy tune. I was using PTE 780's.
I'm interested in running that 0w-30 Mobil 1 oil that seems new. It says it meets specs for 5w-30 oils but will create less drag and help mileage some.
Yeah the dual friction clutch is amazing, my ranger's clutch feels rough after driving this car. Not much pedal play which took some getting used to. Smooth as butter shifts now though.
Best mpg so far has been 41, thats crusing 6th at 45 though. Car seems to take boost very well. I haven't seen anyone pushing for alot of power yet though. FWD lol. I would like to get a quaife after the tune and try to pick up on those RS "revoknuckles". The new RS will dwarf it but this...
Newer injectors help with better atomization for fuel economy. A set of PTE 680's with dsmlink to tune will help mileage a good bit. Past that I would just make sure you have a K&N filter and a solid exhaust, I wouldn't go more than 2.5" though or you will have to fix the boost creep issue. Also...
I'd say it slightly jumped timing and thats why it ran very poorly and eventually made contact with your valves slightly bending them into your plugs. Pictures of the bottom of the head will tell the story much better. I've had piston to valve contact before and it just made the original marks...
I would swap ECU's next, possibly crack it open and see if you can check the connection that you are testing. Also how would it pulse at the clips and not at the ECU? Do you mean they just have a good connection you verified but no signal?
Bad resistor pack on firewall maybe.1. Disconnect the resistor connector.
2. Measure the resistance between terminals.
c
Measuring terminals Resistance1-3 5.5-6.552 [Ait 20°C (68f)
4-3
5-3
6-3
3. If the resistance is out of specification, replace the resistor.posted from fsm
It's hard to piece together what you want from your statements. I think you will be fine with full pro-thane motor mount inserts, I have some and they work great. It does increase vibrations in the car though. I feel solid would be unbearable as I can already feel my motors entirety.
This is because of the extra vibrations added because of no dampening from the solid pulley. Some argue it's worse on bearings. Downpipe is awesome at bang for buck. May want to add a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and adapter to your list. High volume pumps can overrun the stock return on...
I usually disconnect the strut tower and then the tie rod end and this allows me to get enough bend from the knuckle and the cv to remove the CV. The passenger CV i also usually have to put a large clamp around to pry against to put it out of the transmission due to the locking ring.
What kind of AFR numbers are you running, and what fuel? Could be too much fuel burning after the turbo because it's too rich. Also the further from the O2 housing it is you have to add a delay to it's reading so it's more accurate. Is it hitting something or getting a poor ground is something...
I love the hell out of my 02 focus svt. Reliable NA powarrrr! Yes, no turbo though.
Someone buy this case and review it. Printed on or actually shaped cover?
1. Pump is spinning slower at lower rpm which gives you less pressure. Mine usually gets about 1/8th way from low when I idle. At 2500+ it puts me back into the normal bracket. Really only need like 11psi for idle pressure. Some people get around 20psi on a new motor.
2. Could be pulling...
Bad alignment if you have already ruled out loose parts. Could also be caused by bad control arm bushings. Jack up your control arm and put a 4x4 near the wheel and use a long 2x4 under the wheel and pry to see if you get up and down movement and that will let you know if the ball joints are bad.
I've read the straight cut gear ones are stronger and less prone to wear, I'm pretty sure that would be like 90/91 style. They do make more noise however.
I used a cherry bomb on my car where someone had put a straight pipe in and used it as a resonator essentially. It quieted it down a bit. I don't see how a straight through flowing exhaust component would hurt unless it necks down or has chambers.
Stuck lifter murdered my engine, i had 1500 miles on fresh rebuild with all new head components and didnt realize a lifter was sticking. "Young guy wanting to hot-rod". Ignored the sound because these motors always kinda ticked, anyways it was hard to turn over by hand was the symptom to look at...