I told you that the puller (in your first link) wouldn't work. I linked you to what you needed. You never said that you already had tried using the puller that I had linked you to. I only know what you tell me.Anyway, to try and help you.... I actually only used two bolts when pulling...
What the hell are you talking about?
There's no such thing as a "not compatible" timing gear puller. It has nothing to do with the 4g63 or the 420a. I've used the same one on every engine I've ever worked on.
That link that you posted to Autozone isn't a gear puller, it's a pulley puller...
That harmonic balancer puller isn't what you need. You need a timing gear puller, like I posted.
You'll also need those bolts that I posted, M6, IIRC, pretty long.
Spray the shit out of it with WD40, and then it'll come off pretty easily.
A build? What are you asking?
You want to know about turbo'ing, I linked you.
You want to know about big brakes, I linked you.
You haven't asked anything else as far as we're concerned, and what you have asked has been covered a million times.
Jesus christ, use the search function.
DSM Forums - Search ResultsHere's a particular good thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-turbo-conversion/366603-end-all-parts-list-go-turbo.html
GSX brake conversion
2GNT.com - GSX_Front_Brake_Conversion
You don't need to, however.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-turbo-conversion/366603-end-all-parts-list-go-turbo.html
I assume you're talking about the gear, not the pulley. So, technically, the oil pump gear.
Any timing gear sprocket puller will work, something like this:
AutoZone.com | Timing Gear Puller
They'll probably have ones that have 4 holes, rather than two which gives you a little more flexibility...
You can't tune at all with an FMU, but I think that might have been a typo.
The rising rate that you want the SFMU to have is based on the size of your injectors, mostly.
You wouldn't want to use an SAFC to fine tune, because you can't really use it in boost. Not to add fuel at least...
Sorry Locke.Dsmking, I would sit here and make a nice long post to explain to you why your above post is stupid, and how you're an idiot, but I don't want to waste my time.
Just listen to what we're saying and don't be a smartass.Your profile doesn't say you have a wideband.
What is your...
BOV to the IM.
I recommend running the WG straight to a source on the compressor. If you don't have a tapped source, I would install one. Some people say exposing the wastegate diaphragm to vacuum is bad.
Do you have a way to measure the Air-Fuel ratio? More than an inaccurate POS narrowband?
It'll drive fine when you're not boosting, because you're not demanding anymore fuel.
Under boost:
53psi stock fuel pressure. 8psi of boost (I'm assuming) 12psi of fuel pressure for every pound of boost...
Eh, the tuning doesn't seem to be the problem. I think it's just a lot more work than people realize. Everyone just seems to think that anyone with an OEM connector and soldering skills can throw one together pretty easily. While this is somewhat true, it still takes a lot of time; as anyone...
You'll just need another 3/8" NPT Tee.
That could lead to a pretty long array of fittings coming off the back of the block, though.
I didn't like how long mine was, and I was using the setup in the above diagram.
I just ordered this fitting:
Aeroquip FBM2519 - Aeroquip AN to NPT Adapter...
It will happen, its a great idea and would be very profitable. Anyone with the time, resources, and the ability can do it, and turn a good profit. The problem is that every year has a different ecu pinout, which means every ecu is made for a specific year. Which makes making them much more time...
I doubt you'll be able to run that setup without someway of detecting knock and adjusting spark accordingly. Without control of spark, you'll have to dump extra fuel in to avoid knock, which you don't really want to do. My vote is: without some control of spark, don't do it.
I have an open dump and have no complaints. Although, sounds are the last thing I could give a shit about.
I doubt throwing the "dumped" exhaust back into the rest of the stream would be good. All of the exhaust pulses are taking one path, through the turbo; once some of them start being...
I'm not sure what fittings you're talking about.
The FMU has one vacuum fitting.... If you're blowing into it your simulating "boost".
The FMU also has 2 fuel fittings.
So, I'm not sure which one your saying you're blowing into.
I'm sure it's just fine and you're just being pessimistic.
Pressurize the intake manifold, so the MAP sensor is reading positive pressure. Use a multimeter and check the voltage leaving the MAP sensor, adjust it till it is in par with the voltage that it's supposed to send out while at atmospheric pressure. I believe that is 4.67v, or something close...
Please start a new thread when asking a new question.
Did you use a AN fitting? If you did, you don't need any type of sealant on it, if you put some on that could cause it to leak.
If you're using pipe thread you need to use a sealant (made for use with oil), in order to prevent leaks.
My first post in the thread:Hahn is extremely reputable and their kit is designed to be installed and ready to go, meaning you don't need any other parts. If they say you won't experience knock at 5psi without an intercooler, I believe them.
Now, would it be more beneficial and safer to have...
Can't find the kits on Hahn's site anymore... :/
However, if you look here: Turbo-Kits.com 95, 99, 00, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09 Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo Kits - 4G64 420A
You can see that there is no intercooler included for the stage 1 kit.
It's highly unlikely that your compression tester is bad.
I would triple check your timing, I'm willing to bet it's off and causing all of your issues.
Either that, or as you said, something was done incorrectly during the install.
Check the IAC as Boosted said. Really, the only way I know of checking an ECU is to either rule out everything else, or switch it out for a known good ECU and seeing if that changes anything.
However, as you mentioned, it really sounds like the IAC.
Yes, you could weld on an adapter to your current manifold. There's a few people that have done so.
Without an intercooler at 5psi you'll have pretty high intake temps, which makes you more prone to detonation. So, just keep that in mind.
Hahn sells a "stage 1" kit, meant to be run at 5psi...
I'm not sure what you mean "a hair of play". The important thing is that your throttle plate is 100% closed at idle. My idle is -16"hg, but I have stock cams. You'll have to get input from someone that runs Crower 3's.
If you have a manual, and the mechanical skills required to do so, it's not that hard to do both by yourself. There are some specific tools you will need, it should go over all the specifics of that in your manual.
Check to make sure your timing marks are perfectly lined up. 99% of the time when people re-do the timing and something weird happens afterwards, it's because the timing is off.
2GNT.com - PROPER_TIMING_MARK_ALIGNMENT
You set your throttle cable?
You don't have to "set" your cable for idle. It should be completely closed when your foot is off the pedal, and completely open when to the floor, that's all you need to make sure it happening while "adjusting the cable".
Your IAC is basically a passage way that...
I'm guessing that weird sensor you're talking about is the EGR.
None of those should cause your high idle issues.
Check your IAC. It's the valve that controls airflow past the thottle plate at idle.
We're talking about 420a's, just to clarify. I'm not sure if you had one before your 4g63, and that's the one you're refering to. I'm just wondering if someone has found a rough power mark to where the Eagles can't hold up.
Like Dave said, if you have solid mounts you should be fine.
As for the piping, it shouldn't really be affecting your situation. You definitely don't want to drive it like that with a load, though. It will mess up your turbo pretty quick.
Are you using the stock IAC?
8.8:1 Compression ratio is the normal choice when going turbo. As for a better brand, that's mostly a matter of opinion, some will say JE and some will say Wiseco. Eagle is the common choice for rods. It depends on the condition of your cylinder walls, whether you'll have to get it bored or...
It got stuck? You unbolt the one 10mm bolt that holds the sensor in place, correct?
If you did that you shouldn't even need pliers, it should just pull right out, with a little bit of muscle. The CAS is one solid piece, so I'm not sure how part of it would get stuck in. Look at my pics below...
Wow, that's a big turbo.
As long as air can pass across the radiator fins; meaning, as long as it's not denting the fins, it should be fine.
To your other question, since you're using MS you should probably post that in the EMS section.
How're you controlling your idle?
Just to double...
Someone more knowledgeable with the 14B will have to confirm, but I belive that it uses a -4an feed.
The OPSU threads into the block with a 3/8"NPT, so you can tap it from there using a tee.
I wouldn't recommend using Ebay feed lines, I've had bad experience. Just order some -4an line and...
That's because without boost your engine doesn't need as much fuel for good combustion.
You're not getting enough fuel in boost, so you have to look at the things that change or control while in boost. FMU would seem like the next most likely step, to me. Since you have the FCD, just put it...
Yes, you could use the AFPR and not connect a vac line.
When I had my FDC installed I experienced something similar to what you're saying, once it got to 3psi it just hit dead. However, it was a violent shaking. I think you would know if you were experiencing fuel cut. There's a difference...
It sounds like you've done everything correctly.
The problem with adding a AFRP, is that they are also a rising rate regulator. (They have a 1:1 RR) You will then have two rising rate regulators, giving you a 13:1 rising rate altogether.
Your FPR keeps a consistent fuel pressure, so if your...
Firstly, your AFR's will go richer on start up because cold air is denser. So, that's about normal, I suppose. (Mine's a little richer) The 16+:1 during idle is kinda weird, though. Mine's about 15:1. List everything you have altered/replaced in the fuel system since you're methanol...
The HP walbro pump can supply fuel under slightly higher pressures than it's lower pressure counter-part.
Fuel pressure is about 53psi, stock. When you're using a 12:1 FMU it raises the fuel pressure 12psi for every 1psi of boost. So, at 8psi of boost it's adding 96psi of fuel pressure...