Wrong. The cross member bolts to the radiator support which in turn means that if you get the turbo style support for a nonturbo car, you will have to drill holes in the support and put a brace on the top so that you don't crush the support. I know because I made the mistake of buying the one...

I bought my GST in March of 2006, it sat around while I researched and bought parts for the engine. I am still in the process of putting it in the car but the internals on the engine and the head work took me about 2 years of just weekends. I got it running and then found an oil leak at the head...

I agree completely. You would think they would have just kept the same lay out as the turbo cars on the nt cars but nooo, lets make it confusing for everyone working on them.

For clarification use only, what is the thread pitch on the O2 housing bolts and the heat shield bolts?

I would say go for it but make sure it is from a 1990-1992 with the 6 bolt crank in it.

On my 95 GS and my old parts car, the regulator/diaphragm unit (with vacuum line connected to it) is attached on the passenger side of the fuel rail with a c-clip that holds it in place, and then the return line is on the bottom portion of the rail (built in) and then the fuel return line is...

Just go to a wrecking yard and find a quarter panel. Cut it out and have the shop weld in the panel spots that are needed. That or have them cut out the old stuff and weld in some new sheet metal. I am doing the first option with my 95.

I would say it is easier to undo the 2 screws on the center console and lift it up and unplug the actual harness from the airbag control box then it is to take out the cluster even though that is cake work also.

Do you mean lope? Like it is only firing on 3 cylinders or something like that?

My NT is doing the same thing but in Neutral it makes the same noise. I am leaning towards the TOB since I too can push in on the clutch and the noise goes away. I just have to wait and hope it doesn't go out before I get my new clutch kit.

I don't think it is plausible to try and use the 2g nt throttle cable. The engine faces the opposite way and therefore, the cable is going the wrong direction. I have heard you can use the 1g non cruise cable in the 2g because the only difference in the cable is the firewall connection is turned...

Here is the replacement one that I plan on getting unless they make one that is a 4 gauge holder before I buy this one. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Lotek Triple Pillar Pod : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99It replaces the entire a pillar and you can get it in single...

Yes, I do know that it is for the n/t set up and the reason I have a turbo car in my profile name is because I own 2 n/t eclipses and one turbo eclipse. Thank you for the links.On another note, I found out you can just buy the flywheel and clutch (bolts for flywheel to crank and pp to...

I too would be interested in this since I hate having the modular set up.

Sounds to me like the oil pump is frozen up and bad. Your best bet is to replace the whole pump assembly and while you are at it, check and make sure the head does not have any bent valves or you will have to tear it all apart again. When you do a balance shaft elimination kit in the motor, you...

According to MachV, the driver's side is the only one that is discontinued.

That is good to know for future usage for me also. Looks like I was wrong about the issue. Thanks for posting the thread for the removal of the joint.

I am pretty sure you have to buy a whole new arm for it.

I personally like the wheels but other than that, I think it looked better in the original picture. I would have tinted the tails, reverse lights and side markers, had the rims powder coated black and maybe put a extremely light tinting on the headlights. That is just what I would do to it but...

Another option to make sure the cam and crank sensors are/aren't working is to get a 1G CAS and the harness and do a temporary wire harness and hook it up that way. That is what I did on mine when it wouldn't start. You have to remember to reverse the order of the spark plug wires but other than...

7 bolt is what you will want for a 7 bolt setup unless you are going to do some machining on the rod and cap to fit it on the crank for the 7 bolt.

I am pretty sure that the stock hoses do not use the springs and the silicone hoses don't either.

If I were you when it comes to mixing, mix all the paint and hardener at the same time and pour it into separate containers that are pre measured so that you will have the same amount of reducer required for all the containers of pre mixed paint. Then pre measure out the reducer and draw an...

Nice find!! I wish I could have found one that was that clean. I would say if you really wanted to, you could take the seats and the door panels that have the cloth down and have them all reupholstered in the tan color that you want if you can not find the seats you want in the car.

This is true since both of my 95's are OBDII and I have been able to read the codes at Auto Zone on my GS.

This is a real easy fix and would give you some experience on working on other parts of your car. Even going extremely SLOW it shouldn't take more than a day to do it. I was able to replace my first one within 3 hours and now I have it down to 1 hour per side with smoke breaks in there. Just get...

I am pretty sure that you are going to be better off just installing an aftermarket keyless entry system. I don't know if there is a way to purchase just the box and key fob that will hook into the wiring for the keyless if the car came with it from the factory. I know that it was an option on...

There are lines that run to it. The only thing that I can think of to do with them is to recirculate them or just block them off at the inlet and outlet points on the hoses/pipes where they come out of the water tube/engine block. This is the only thing that I have thought about doing to the...

Also another item that I have not seen that could use the change up would be the pcv valve. I know that they go out and it may have gone out on the car while it was sitting there or before it was parked. Don't want to have the gases staying in the engine.

Don't quote me on this because I really don't know for sure but, I don't see why they wouldn't be. There is a good possibility that they made a different harness for the n/t cars then they did for the turbo'd cars but I would think that since all you have to do is wire in the wires that are...

Does this hose run under the car? If it does, wouldn't it be a good idea to take and cut the hose back by the tank and put the valve in it back there in order to fully eliminate the hose from the front of the vehicle all together?

If I were to buy a new sensor and just hook the wiring up to it, would that be a way to test the sensor since a replacement one is only $20 and then I would not have to pull the sensor and put it in boiling water in order to test it out? Also, if the sensor is bad, would the injectors still open...

Quick question on the temp sensor and the ecu, if when the sensor is disconnected from the computer and it reads -34, will the car still start? Is this an easy way to test and see if the sensor is bad without having to pull the sensor out of the hole that it threads into? If so, this would help...

Since there is the volume 1 manual at the website, does anyone know where to find the volume 2 "electrical" for the 95-96 eclipse manual? I saw that there was the one for the 1997 on the same website but I did not find one for the 2ga cars. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you everyone. I figured it out. My security settings for Firefox wouldn't allow me to do it but Internet Explorer would so I just used that instead.

Thank you for the link but I am not able to use it since I am on a network computer at work and it is basically blocked for use. My company has a smaller network and it will basically kill the network and make it so no one is able to work. I may have to try this at home this weekend.

Anyone? Every time I try to download the fsm, it puts me on a page that will not download it to the page and I have tried printing it to a pdf format and it will only do the first 14 pages and then it quits. I would really like to have this and it just doesn't seem to be working on my computer...

Is there a way to just save the file and be able to open it up later without having Adobe Acrobat open it up and download it onto the computer first? The reason I am asking is because it is trying to open it with adobe and adobe is crashing while opening it up.

I have always run and heard to run the OEM timing belt or the HKS belt. My car is the 2.4 DOHC and I have only been able to find the OEM timing belt. As for the balance shaft removal, I would do it just for the assurance that you will not loose the balance belt and then it messes up everything...

I have no experience with these ones but the flex-a-lite fan and shroud combo is a good one to use as long as you don't mind trimming the heck out of the shroud to make it fit on a Mishimoto radiator. If you were to use the fal fan and shroud combo on a stock radiator, I'm sure you would still...

One of the best ways that I found was to use a chain that is bound together at the transmission side of the cv with another chain hooked to it for the pulling and just yank the cv out without worrying about messing up the bearings or separating the boots from the axle. The other way that I do it...

The only place that you might be able to find it that I know of is RMR. But I agree with the post above. Run E-85. To bad the only pump that is near the valley that I know of is on 12300 South and about 265 West in Draper. I know if there was one in Tooele, I would be getting my car ready to run...

Not trying to thread jack but, how many pulls(1 pull= 1 acceleration and 1 deceleration) do you make in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th before you switch between gears while breaking in the motor?

Looks good. Now you just need to fix the gap between the hood and the front bumper. Nice to see another DSM in good hands.

Yeah I know that they are around but since the factory has discontinued them, they are getting harder and harder to find and getting one that is brand new and has not been molested is always better than getting a used one that you have no idea if it has been put through the "cleaners" and no...

Need to have a replacement for the EVO III Oil Filter Housing made up for the 7-bolts that want to run the external oil cooler without having to have the sandwich cooler on the oil filter. That would be great since it is discontinues and I will need one soon and I am sure others want one also...

So since the early 95s have a different timing belt adjuster, would the later 95 adjuster still work?

Are those the only differences with the 95's? I have seen on a few websites like ExtremePSI.com that they list 2 different hydraulic timing belt adjusters. One for early 95 and one for late 95. Is there something different with the adjusters?

Make that 47, Own a 95 GS(weekend driver) and 95 GS-t(rebuilding right now) no pics though. Will have some soon hopefully.