So I’m starting a little project for the AWD swap after a long hiatus but my question is, why are all solid mount subframe bushings aluminum instead of steel? I believe my little project is going to require me to use steel for the threads but wasn’t sure why nobody used it. I can’t find anything...
I was thinking about sanding mine down and trying to blend into the rubber edge then using a rubber coating, either dip or spray them until built up to roughly factory mil thickness. I was thinking the same material for under coat may work? I’m not sure how to get it smooth though… that’s where...
I don’t know if it’s just me, but I’m having a hard time searching here. I know I’ve came across threads on piston and rod setups but the search engine is weird on my phone or something. With that being said, I was going to ask opinion on weather or not the Manley I beams for the 6 bolt with...
Annnddd that’s a wrap.. turns out I had two bad from stock cam position sensors so third time replacing was a charm. Got a new starter, fuel injectors, fuel pump, negative and ground cables in the process but she’s up and running finally. Thanks for the help all.
Alright... so my BMW is about to be done and I’m starting back on the GS Spyder to get it running. Ended up changing the starter and fuel pump and it now cranks and starts but is still dying. I checked the voltage at the fuel pump plug (black wire blue stripe) and am only getting 0.028 volts. Am...
Unfortunately my progress has slowed, I ended up buying a 435i and doing a bunch of stuff to it so now that it’s done, I’m going to start back on the Eclipse hopefully this coming week!
From a logical standpoint that’s too small to worry about. From a piece of mind standpoint, if you already have the block out, it’s pretty cheap to resurface at a machine shop
Well when I got hole today, it fired right up as normal and was running fine, I let it warm up, shut it off and started fine again, but on the third time, it was a no go. It’s as if it has a problem only after being warmed up. And after letting it sit and cool down it’s back to normal operation...
Thanks for the input! With your mod, when you say “make these three connections” do you literally just remove the module and connect all three wires together or?
And I spoke too soon. Started putting the interior and ECU in, got everything hooked up and the stupid p0340 code came back as it died. Checked my battery connections and they seem good but I’m guessing it’s somewhere else
Possibly man. I put it all back together and it fired right up with the new injectors it’s back to running smooth... idk, hopefully the problem doesn’t come back. I checked the grounds and cleaned them and made sure they were tight but maybe I missed something somewhere along the way.. then...
I have a 99 spyder GS automatic (4g64) and was originally throwing quite a few codes including one for injector circuit (had a bad injector), misfire same cylinder as injector (pretty obvious if an injector is bad), p0125 (coolant sensor I believe), a p01750 (shift solenoid), and a p0340 (cas?)...
Yeah Spyderdrifter pretty much hit the nail on the head. You have to remove the drive shaft carriers and exhaust hangers, heat shield etc. I’m going to tackle the rear subframe different than most of the swaps just to try a new way and hopefully it works out (we will find out pretty soon here...
That’s definitely a possibility. I’m just worried about the trans and diff. I know the 2.4 setups are much more torquey and can brake those more easily than the 2.0 setups. I was reading Jacks Transmission thread on the 7 bolt with the big rod setup machined down for tighter tolerance, but...
Hahah, oh no, I wouldn’t do that to a stock 4g64. I have my choice of a 6 bolt 4g63, a 7 bolt 4g63 and I’ve been recently debating going with the 4g64 bottom 7 bolt 4g63 head (the head is fully built and just about done with GSC S2, port and polish, bee hives, kiggly HLA, etc etc.). I’m also...
I have a GS spyder it will be going into so non turbo. But reading back on it I can’t find anything on the front subframe... I must be smoking something. I could have swore I saw something about using the back subframe bolts on the front subframe and swapping them but I guess I was wrong about that!
Son of a bee sting. I thought the only reason was to drop the longer bolt from the same location. With that being said, it will make it a bit easier but you’d still have to go I. From the top for the FWD location... gotcha! Well... we shall see how it comes out and if I can come up with...
If I understand what you’re saying correctly, you’re talking about on the bottom of the subframe? Because all mounts are the same position correct? If they are, my idea should work. It would essentially make the subframe and the frame one piece still providing the needed stretch on the bolt. I...
Yeah, I’ve decided it’s definitely possible so if they aren’t interested in doing it, I’m going to convince one of the guys here at my works machine shop to make me a set to try out. We are aircraft oriented but I’m sure I convince someone to make them. Haha
So I’ve decided to take on the Spyder AWD swap and have read a bunch of swaps and started thinking to myself, “there must be a better way to deal with the subframe studs that need to be swapped in order to make the subframes bolt up’”. Every thread that I’ve seen cuts into the frame to add the...
Got a 7 bolt block that seems to be in pretty good shape. Got some typical rust in the water passages etc. but pistons seem to be in good shape, no visible signs of any damage and no excessive crank play or anything (could take measurements for anyone interested). I haven’t actually removed the...
I guess I registered on this forum quite some time ago but lurked from the shadows and sold my 97 spyder before really needing this. Well fast forward quite some years later and here I am with a 95 GSX project and am back to the forum to learn and search for parts. Hopefully I can contribute...