ah! great! thanks for the link!

yea...that's exactly my problem...too much toe out in the rear. one alignment shop told me to try rearranging the spacers on the camber kit; putting more on the rear bracket than the front (at this point i have 6 in the back, two in the front, which is getting ridiculous)i think it made things...

sorry to bring this back to life but i've been searching but cannot find any info if anybody makes a rear adjustable toe control arm (95 gsx). im having a really hard time getting the toe set to 0. (already installed an ingalls rear camber kit)thanks in advance to any help!

coil pack has already been replaced.compression is fine too...it's definitely something electrical.:confused:

it's a completely stock gs-t.

trying to help a buddy with a 95 gs-t....it's only firing on cyl 1 and 4 and sometimes it will have a real hard time firing at all.the weird thing is after trying to start it you can hear the injectors firing even though the ignition is turned off? this will last a few minutes... :confused...

hey corey i would have expected at least the decency to let me know you backed out of doing the swap. i wasted my time and gas trying to help you out with this project that YOU wanted done.not only that, i had stopped working on my own car and made room for your car to fit in the garage...

i might be totally wrong but did that motor originally have a split thrust bearing instead of the one piece?

hmm looks like a starion/conquest with a 4g63 swap.

if the cams are still in then some valves will always be open because of the lobes.remove the lobes and then re-check.btw, if you bent valves you wouldn't have sufficient compression and more than likely your car wouldn't run.

that has to be some of the worst damage i've seen.amazing.

assuming the engine bay is stock you wont hear very much sound at all...you should hear a faint sound if you hear carefully.most importantly, make sure the valve is working correctly.

i have yet to hear of a failed oem crank...stick with the mitsu crank and get everything balanced at the machine shop. spend the money to upgrade something else.

could just run the stubby shaft..mitsu makes one for a reason.i've run two 4g63's this way and never had any kind of problems.

im going to guess it's the turbo too...i just had mine go bad as well and i have the same problem. it's only going to get worse you should change it out asap.

good to hear. i've had friends who refused to knock it off only to be riding around and then the perch gives and the car drops to the ground lol. funny shit to watch.

congrats on owning a gvr4..defitnetly a cool car to have.before jumping the gun and looking to upgrade your turbo, etc, you should concentrate on the basics and make sure everything is up to par and running properly. that gives you time to do research and get your car ready before you add...

im going to guess this too. if you already put back the timing belt and and it's hitting double check your marks. i hope you haven't actually tried to start the car yet or your valves will most likely be bent.

use a long pipe with a stripped bolt socket...i've had the same problem before and that did the trick.

like everybody says, not even close to being a DSM.i think your buddy is confusing it with the regular starion/conquest (the esi-r is the widebody), which i admit, does look a lot like the daytona at first glance.

you have to knock the spring perch off (a hammer will do the trick) when you knock them off, you'll see a small ledge that will hold the coilover up.

that is exactly what i'm working on right now, but with a 2.3 so i can enjoy the torque with the RWD.just sold my 01 Galant about 3 months ago (see avatar). 2.3 evo swap, 5 speed swap from a 3g eclipse, very base tune @ 320whp/340wtq= Sleeper FTW :thumb:

i have to agree, especially if you're talking about a 1st gen. the amount of money you'll need to put into it...defitnetly better off looking for well taken care off gsx.

it's really hard to tell from the pics. is the car running? if not then just be patient and see where the plugs go. they won't plug in into a connection it's not supposed to go into.how about this? what ISN'T working in the car? that might help out point what's disconnected.

if it's one of the long bolts that goes through a mount, you'll have a hard time finding one at a hardware store.if it's a short bolt just to hold down the mount, just get one at any hardware store.

if you prep it right it can come out decent.better than the primered look lol.

if it has blue smoke coming out then it's obivously a bigger problem than lose couplers.i'd start off my check your turbo and then do a compression test. if the numbers are low or vary a lot from each other, do a wet test.

if it's a 2.6, it's a G54B. a 4g63 head will not bolt on.maybe it's a 4g64, which would explain why it looks like a '63.

GSX.anybody who says otherwise just doesn't have one. :thumb:

x2 on checking the head, new OEM hg and new head bolts or arp studs.

why did you change the bearings to begin with?

was about to post that....you can only download '88.how are your injector clips? pretty common to go bad on starquests.

not necessarily, the ecu needs to see about 180-190 degrees for optimum performance.

try turbochargers.compretty messed up of the guy who sold it to you.

sounds like your battery (or cables) if you're not getting any cranking at all.otherwise, i'd check your starter.

Awd Ftw!!

go oem. can't go wrong.

you got lucky.you should have never given him the entire amount with the car being ready for you to take.

nope, not without breaking the cover.it's a PITA but unfortunately the only way to go.

you're going to have to remove the cover?

what boost controller are you running?

it all depends on what your goal is. be realistic with yourself. i've personally built 2 strokers and have never had any problems whatsoever and the torque is the way to go, especially for a daily driver.

the two in the back of the block.check the FAQ for pics/help.

defitnetly go for a 16g....not much more if you look around.

it all depends on what you want:DSM= cheaper to work on (fewer parts) which means less money spent to on mods VR4= will retain value more, rare car, if done right can be an amazing car but require more $$personally, i say VR4

that doesn't even look like a OBDII plug.

need more details as to what's going on to be able to help you.

buy OEM ; go here: https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.htmlenter MD182291 for the part number. (timing belt.)

i can't say for sure on the fronts but i think the rears you can.i have an entire awd swap...i'll compare the rear knuckles and post what i find.

i know some galant owners(99+) swapped in the rear knuckles from 2g to convert their drum brakes to discs...?:confused: