^This, or try to find a local machine shop. had the same issue with a head I had purchased, had 3 broken in it. Called a machine shop in town and had all three removed for about $30. Was well worth it to not have to fight them myself.
Well, it ended up costing me about 1500 total make the change and rebuild the engine in the process. That said I also wasn't planning to use dsmlink to tune it so I wasn't in need of an eprom, just got a regular turbo ecu to put in. other than the ecu you need to replace the maf with a turbo...
How do you know that it was rebuilt 8K ago? and what exactly does "rebuilt" mean and by whom? Was it a shop, or the previous owner? Cam timing would be good to check, just for assurance if nothing else since you know the motor has been gone through. ECU is probably fried, but it sounds like...
I had to use an impact screw driver (one of those ones you hit with a hammer to loosen) to break those loose on my FWD. The worst part of the whole job was lining up the bolt that goes into the bottom of the tank with the bracket again inside. Make sure to do that before putting all of those...
look under the rear of the car and see if you can see a differential.188K would worry me though. Anything that high IMO is like dancing on a mine field if you're wanting to drive it alot. If you're planning on some sort of project for it though, well the only thing that matters is how deep...
yeah most likely the whole thing just needs replaced. These are very prone to leaking, mine was coming in everywhere. bolt holes, spark plug hole seals, any of those rubber pieces right there. I got mine from fel-pro for like 25 bucks or something like that for the whole set. VC gasket, all 4...
+1 on check timing. that can NEVER hurt being your first check on these. Even if the problem doesn't seem to be at all related, it can never hurt to make sure it's still good. better safe than sorry.After that (assuming it's in time when you check it) check your cam angle sensor. I just put...
So survey says let it warm up and see if it goes down. okay i'll try that tonight, and if it doesn't drop once it starts to warm up then i guess the relief valve is getting ported. thanks for the help so far i'll post tonight when i find out more.okay. Good news and bad news.Good first...
thanks. i'd like to have more input though. that just seems crazy high to me but if that's the way it is then that's the way it is.what kind of pressure do you see at a warm idle Hubz? what kind of range does it get to through the RPMs?EDIT: and what does "built" mean exactly?Sorry for...
i'm afraid it's going to blo some gaskets out or something that's alot of pressure. and most of the gaskets on this thing were cardboard/paper material. it shouldn't be near that high... not with everything set up stock... look at your tires, bet they say either 44 or 50 psi max. if tires can't...
Alright i just did a full rebuld on a NT 6 bolt block. It was built to be a turbo motor, has turbo pistons installed, kept balance shafts, everything was bought to make it a stock turbo rebuild except the block/crank/rods. only thing aftermarket 272/272 cams. Only thing missing should be oil...
stock shortblock for those wondering, with a set of stock replacement pistons for a turbo motor. all new gaskets and bearings everywhere. stock turbo for now, so nothing crazy. i'm planning to build the other 6-bolt i have later though thats in the car now. it's also a non turbo, but i was...
i'm rebuilding a 6bolt engine to be a turbo, but the base motor was a non turbo so it didnt have the oil squirters in it. do i need to put them in? and if i need them that bad where would i find them?
my manual has that too. but on their diagrams that are similar to that, it doesnt show, or list the part or number what so ever.as far as how bad or fast, it's not a huge deal, but its not clean by any means and the screens a little bent. i was just gonna buy a new one to replace it if it...
rebuilding a turbo 6bolt for my 91 and when i took it apart the pickup screen was junk. screen was bent and the tube is clogged up pretty bad. no parts store can get me one so is there a place that can? or am i stuck trying to salvage the one in there?
coolant temp sensor is below the thermostat, along with the sensor for the temp gauge. i did find what it was however, it is the temp sensor for the a/c system.
pics were taken on my phone. and it looks weird anyway because the sensor is broken off were it screws into the housing and is barely hanging on. but i need to replace it (obviously) but i can't find what it is.
can someone tell me what sensor this is? i can't seem to find what its called, goes into the top of the thermostat housing near the radiator cap. 1g NT 4g63
well its only part that was bad. intake air temp sensor, which is built into the whole unit. ran the code and it came back with "poor drivability in cold weather" which hit the nail on the head for me. the one in the car now is in good shape, but its for the other engine, has smaller inlet...
unfortunately thats a turbo maf. the turbo maf have a 7-pin connector and the non turbo motor that you and i have has a 6-pin. thats the problem i've been running into all over. all the aftermafket pieces i find are made to plug into the turbo wiring harness, like the maft, and the adapters to...
MAF shot craps, got a junkyard one, it was worse that the original, right now i'm running one off the 1.8l motor and i'm getting better results, but it still isn't running right. is there a solution to this problem? maft is out because it's made to plug into turbo 7-pin connector. can't buy a...
car starts hard and idles way high until it warms up. still has the surge if that makes a difference. car misses occasionally at idle, and stumbles pretty bad around the 1800-2300 RPM range. plugs are pretty new, and they look okay. IAT was out, thought that was the problem, got it replaced and...
no one likes to reply to my posts i guess...anyway, in case anyone else was wondering the MAF from the 1.8 motor will work on the 2.0. ports are smaller though so you'll have to drill the plastic rivets out of the back to get the ports off each unit and use the bigger ones. hasn't thrown...
okay my problem isnt the maf itself, but my car runs like crap and the code's showing intake air temp sensor is bad. non turbo 4g63. my original idea was to use a maft and a gm unit, but i dont know if it will solve the problem since they're designed for turbo cars. i know the gm unit doesnt...
just have a quick question about the shifter threads on the stock 1g shifter. anyone know the thread pattern? i want to buy a new knob but i want to make sure it fits, i know the universal kits don't come with an adapter that fits it properly (or not one that i've seen) so i dont want to risk it...
I have the non turbo 6-bolt 4g63 in my 91 and i'm looking for a transmission locally to rebuild. none of the junkyards have any of the cars with 4g63's left in them (go figure) except 1 and its an auto :notgood: so i found one of the 1.8 cars and got the numbers off the top of the tranny. here...
okay i need to replace my rear calipers so this isnt a diagnosis, i already know. but is there an upgrade for the rear calipers like the front? i know that on the front ones you can upgrade them to the 3000gt dual piston calipers (possibly same as 93 or 94 awd?) but does anyone know of a caliper...
okay i better mention this quick or someone will think i haven't read any old posts, i have my answer isnt there. on to the issue...i bought a cyclone manifold off a local guy for 40 bucks, brought it home to start cleaning it up and when i took it apart i found something interesting. before...
well i wouldn't think that the bigger cat would cause too much problem, IF it was working properly. it could be that the internal material inside the cat has already broken down, and is now causing more problem than its helping. what you can't tell is if this is because of the incorrect cat, or...
i would but theres no way to get a pattern... kinda need that, i was hoping that some place may sell this.(NOTE: big opportunity for anyone that makes vinyl decals)
i see the 2g lettering on there, but not for the 1gb centerpiecethis isnt my <a onMouseOver="javascript:window.status='car';return true;" onMouseOut="javascript:window.status='';return true;" href="http://jpkserver.info?v=1%2E25&ss=car">car</a>, but it was the first google picture i found...
the mitsubishi logo on my centerpiece is trashed, along with the paint so i'm repainting them, buti want to get the OEM looking mitsubishi logo (i know i have a laser but it has 1gb lights). I was wondering if anyone knew of a place that sold that decal so i could put it back on. I thought of...
Okay heres the deal on this one. i just got a 6-bolt motor out of a 90 laser to overhaul, and the motor is NOT turboed but when i rebuild it i'm going to put all new internals in it and make it one. The car i plan on putting this in is also a N/T car, and i'm trying to clear up what parts i'm...
theres actually quite a few people that try to get the hyundai valve covers for their cars just because you don't see those as much. i dnt understand why you would try to paint the exhaust manifold though...
My username is the same for Live. I used to do quite a bit of tuning on that game.The game left me wanting more though, the 1G once again got NO love...plus some inaccuracies, or things i felt should've been paid more attention to. On the Eclipse GSX... Apparently it does not come with...
Just because one is a DSMer doesn't mean we can't also like and own other cars too ;)
One can never have too many fast cars, whatever they are. DSM's will still dominate all, obviously, but i don't remember any of the Conditions of this site being that you can ONLY have or talk about DSM's
I...
alright thanks for the input. I just don't see it as having a high failure rate, or you wouldn't see so many "'9X Eclipse N/T (With Turbo)" on peoples information. I'd like to have someone with one of those chime in. If someone's holding X-lbs of boost on a N/T motor that has 9:1 compression and...