I ran an open DP for a bit. I loved the spool with the open DP. I am now on a 3" Turbo back straight pipe with no muffler.1G DSM 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Stainless Steel AWD TSI - YouTube

Send it off to these guys ECMTuning, Inc. and they will let you know what all is wrong with it and they have a very fast turn around.

_p_VRSF 2G FMIC Front Mount Intercooler Kit : 95-99 Eclipse & Talon Turbo 2G

MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

JNZ Tuning has them OEM "Mitsubishi"Sticker-2G Eclipse : JNZ TuningIt is always nice to support the forums supporting vendors.

I was sitting here reading it until someone said to wait for dsmlink v3 to come out. :ohdamn:

Here is a sound clip of my 3" straight pipe from the turbo back. No cat no muffler.3" Turbo Back Exhaust 1G DSM - YouTube

Fullthrottle pretty much somes it up: MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/423406-1ga-after-market-headlights.html

Can you get a drill bit in there and just drill out the bolt and let the pieces fall on the ground? Let me know if you mess up the jpipe as I think I have a couple spares.

Sounds good. I will see you at the meet later on then. I think you can get that bolt out of your jpipe in a matter of minutes. Lowes sells an easy out and If I can find the one that I have I will bring it with me tonight and let you take it home and try to get it out with it.

Good luck with the new car. I am from your area also so if you need any help or anything just hit me up. Did you ever get that busted bolt off your jpipe? Ever get that boost leak fixed?Hopefully I will see this car around sometime.

I'm guessing your wg is dumping to the atmosphere? If you recirculate it back through your exhaust you shouldn't smell it as much anymore.

QTP » Electric Exhaust Cutouts

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Fullthrottle pretty much somes it up: MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech SupportI also attached the 1g maft install guide

T3/T4 should be the flange it uses. A mitsu manifold probably will not bolt up to that turbo without an adapter.

Here is the steps for a 1G, this will give you an idea of what you need to do. Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit InstallI just removed my BS and I can hardly tell any difference in vibrations at all.

I have heard nothing but bad things from porter performance. I would check out DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

The Dowel pins are in good shape, the bolts holding the cam gear to the cam are fine. The oil pump is also fine. Any other Ideas?Thanks for all the help.

I have just recently had my engine rebuilt. I was 380 miles into the break in of the engine and the car started missing real bad. The next day I went to take it to the shop and it wouldn't start. The car drove fine for 380 miles and the timing was correct with no obvious problems I can see now...

Mine has been in the shop for the last 2 months registered and insured. If you are going to be taking it on the road then register it. If it is a track only car you should be alright.

Mine did the exact same thing right before the alternator went out on me.

I just ordered mine from DSM Graveyard. Hope you fine what you need.DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

To see if someone had similar problems and to see if I was dumb for just rebuilding the complete engine. It never made the noise before the timing belt busted, after it got fixed was when it started.The car ran fine but I hated the noise and wouldn't let it rev over 4000.

Thanks, The engine is being rebuilt at the moment. A BSE Kit is being installed so that should take care of the problem.

I'd be more worried about the timing belt at 120K if it hasn't been changed recently.

The balance shaft gear looked alright, the belt was fine as well. Is there a good way to tell if that was the problem or not?Thanks

I recently broke a timing belt and had the head and timing belt fixed. Car runs fine except when you get it up to 3800-4000 rpm and up it sounds like it kicks into vtac.. The car vibrates a little bit also at that range. Has anyone heard of anything like this?

The first thing you want to do is go through the engine and replace any worn hoses or belt, and put all new fluid in it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/337343-how-identify-eprom-ecu.html

Either use a winch, come along, or good old man power.Good Luck

My car is still in the shop with the engine going back together. I am at about 12K at the moment. I will post back after I get the final bill and the car so I can provide a full list.

Welcome to the site. Enjoy your stay and be sure to read the rules.

I would use a heat gun before putting it in the oven for sure.

Ah sorry. I thought he meant to put the charger style tail lights on the 2g.

I highly doubt it has been done since the new charger led lights have just come out recently. I will try to PS a 2g with the charger taillights but I don't know how it will turn out.

I had the same exact problem with my lower timing belt cover. Mine somewhat melted and I think that is why it rubbed a hole through my cover.

It looks alright on some cars but I think it would look goofy on a spyder. If you end up doing it post some pics.

Definitely check the shifter cables and motor mounts first, if you don't see anything that looks off take it to a shop like luv2rallye said.

My 1g does the exact same thing every now and then. I would love to know what is causing this as well.

I just bought mine from DSM Graveyard. $15DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

Nice 2 year bump lol. I haven't rebuilt the tansfer case built I just got all new seals and breather from dsm graveyard for my transfer case.

That car is beautiful, I hope it is as good as you imagined. I hate waiting for a car to ship, it feels like it takes forever.

I would look into the knock sensor ( wont make manifold red) Ive had one go bad with a combination of a small boost leak and the car would hardly build boost at all.

I would take the turbo apart and inspect it to see if you can find the reason it is seized. It might be rebuild-able.

Have you checked your pulleys? That is what it sounds like to me. Either that or you might be rubbing on the lower timing cover.

Just pull the ground off of the battery when your engine is running and if it dies your alternator is junk. If it keeps running it should be fine. I think you are just missing a fuse somewhere down the line though.

This is why the first step to any repair is disconnect the battery. I think autozone has a machine when they test your battery that will see if you fried your alternator. Good luck.