Yeah I pulled one off this last week from a juckyard. Bc some parts are broken on mine. You shouldnt have any problems. Mine is used so I painted it black again to give it that new look.
It looks like you are one tooth off on the bottom end. Have you driven the car? You should have little power. When under load. Before you reset the timing belt pull number one spark plug and put a long screw driver in there and turn the engine by hand you should not have any trave when the cams...
Good job. I also have rsx seat but didnt make brackets I should have. What I did was use the stock gs bracket and mount the seat to them. They came out ok. I would like to see your bracket pics
Have you had any luck fixing the problem? So did you change out the coil pack with a new one or did you test it or....mine was bucking a few months ago so what I did was hook up a timing light to the each of the spark plug wires and rev the engine I could see that number 3 would stop firing...
http://t.answers.com/answers/?ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ask.com%2Fquestions-about%2FSymptoms-of-a-Bad-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator#!/entry/925fd67c1354498291e15352aed3e0d2Check this out. Sound kind of like what you are experiencing
No problem glad I can help. This is how it is when coming into the dsm world in no time you'll know your car inside and out. Are you sure your looking at the ecu? To access the ecu plugs you have to remove the side panel on the driver side on the gas pedal side you should see a gold box...
Step one check all lines running to intake for leaks
Step two check cam angle sensor for proper wiring RRE Instructions
Step three check firing order  http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?cache=cache&media=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dsmlink.com%2Fimages%2Fforums%2Fplugswap.gif use the pic...
Good. Now youre getting somewhere. Ok so what you can do now is retest the fuel pump. at the same time crank the engine see if will run. Also check for vacuum leaks make sure all lines in on the intake are not leaking. Just leave the map connected and tuck it behind the intake manifold.
Unless the wiring harness was swapped you should have it there. It should be behind the intake manifold Against the fire wall.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=138268&d=1335710446
See if this helps
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=138269&d=1335710466
This link should get you to the tech forum. If you apply 12 volt to the black plug then you will turn on the fuel pump. This wire is there to test if the fuel pump is working. Also when you were testing the fuel...
Right that's bc there is no crank sensor. Click the link. There it will show you how to merge the drank sensor plug and the cam sensor plug to the 1g cam sensor. You are getting spark but you are out of phase.
RRE Instructions
This should help what you have is a basic 6 bolt swap non turbo. Find the harness plugs and wire them up correctly then swap the ecu pins. That should do it
So let me ask. Are you trying to start it in the condition as in the pic? I don't see a maf. Also check the cam sensor and let us know how it's connected. And you can run this motor without a turbo.
That's bc you don't have a load on the engine. When in neutral you can rev to red line with only 2 cylinder working bc it has no load. It does sound like a spark or fuel injector problem.
I had the same problem. First check the timing. Then connect the timing light to each plug wire and rev the engine see if the light stays on. My coils were out of spec and caused the spark to stop when I rev the engine about 3000 on two cylinders.
Ok so here goes. My dsm runs great starts fine , drives fine , boost to 15 just fine and over does great but if I drive it for more than 15 mins then it start to buck like crazy. What happens is I can here the mfi clicking every 3second and when it does the car shuts off for 1second then...
I had the same problem it's the oil gear. It's loose so when you try to wrap the the belt the gear rotates back try it again these time when working the belt around the oil gear keep pressure on the gear with a socket then around the crank. After its around the crank hold on to the belt bc it...
Yeah you will need to compress the rod back in and put a pin in the little hole. Also you will need a tensioning tool to rotate the tensioning pulley to the correct spec. The reason the belt is loose is
Bc the tensioning pulley is not rotated there for is not
Putting pressure on the rod the...
Sound like the ficv. Mine did that before I blocked off the passages. It's a easy fix. What should happen is it will rev up to 2000 Rpms then drop back down over and over again. Charile90gst is right. Use the link he provided
I know I had the head flatten out and used a thicker head gasket. And after the head was flatten The piston still did not come all the way to the top. I was ok with this because the relief cuts in the piston are backwards.http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/9/2/7/8/1/photo.jpg
yeah I cut mine form the top.be careful not to cut the head of the bolt or just buy some grade 8 bolts that would be easier.on the spider you will have to cut the cross frame to make room for the sub frame bolts and hole.I used a cutting wheel on a grinder.for the bolts by the re wheel you will...
I also did the swap ever thing is pretty straight forward.the only problem I had was the fuel pump I couldn't get the ground wire to ground thru factory location.I think it was the mfi relay.
hey thanks alot guys.yes I turned it like five or six times then let it sit for a day.but it seam to get tighter after I ran the engine.so what ill do is apply lock tight(thanks for that never crossed my mind) and reset the tensioner then run the engine thru a heat cycle them check the gap.if...
well im changing me new timing belt because it was be crewed up:ohdamn:found the problem got that fixed.but I noticed a couple of problems while I was in there one was that the tensioner piston was all the way closed.the other was that the right pulley stared to back out or un screw.so my...
you will need the rear hanging bracket to be welded too the car.the front one can reused you just need to put in some grade 8 bolts after you drill out the spot welds .also be careful when welding your carpet could catch fire.ask me how I know.
I use to do auto upholstery its really not that hard.the trick is to mark every part then use a razor blade and cut apart at the seams then lay the patterns on top of the new fabric and trace outline.add a little for sewing then sew the patterns back together.just need to find a sewing machine :)
what I would check is your ture tdc. put a screw driver in piston one and rotate till the screw driver is at tdc then look at the crank mark.what happen to me was I had the crank mark plate on backwards.good luck.
cost me 1000 for the awd shell after I removed the parts I needed I sold the rest for
200. took me and a buddy a weekend to do the swap.if I had to do it again I would.the only thing that needs welding is the carryer brackets
hmm bought an awd shell for 1000, 6 bolt for 300, rebuilt 6 bolt with evo 9 piston for 1000 for a grand total of 2300 and swap all into my n/a spyder and turned it into an awd turbo spyder. hmm how much for a supercharged system?
what i did is swap the engine wire harness, went with dsmlink and a 6 bolt swap. the only thing i ran into was the ground wire at the fuel pump. i still have to check where it's broken so i just jumped the ground to yhe frame. other than that every thing else went just fine. just do your home...
how about this. last week I had the same problem. what I did was check the power wire to the fuel pump with a light tester then cranked the motor the light lit up. hmmm so I made a jumper wire to the ground wire to the fuel pump that did it. I had a bad ground after I did a ecu and wire harness...
The gs spyder has a 4g64 engine in it. not the 420a engine. The wiring harness is just about the same as the gst. you have a couple of options. One is just add a turbo, exhaust manifold, injectors and a turbo ecu .Or do a complete 4g63 swap.
well so sorry you are having a hard time with you ride. but don't give up just think that the glass is half full. is the no other dsmer close to you that can help with your problems ? if a trany you need a know of a couple for sell cheep with low miles.
I just did my 6bolt swap on my gs spyder.I ended up using a 95 ecu and harness every thing hooked up just fine. but the gs spyder wire harness will also work you just needs a knock sensor wire and the injector suppersser (not sure what it's called) and an ecu. I changed mine because of a bad...
I'm just finishing up my awd swap on my spyder. cant wait till i get it out on the road.
i haven't see anyone selling a awd spyder in a while. good luck and let us know what you find.
oh I see richard do a swap. sorry I thoght you where making fun of me. everyone I've talked to asked why not just buy one. I keep saying that's not the point. sorry