Where did you find the new front hub assemblies? Or did you rebuild your originals?

I've got a set of 4 denso 660cc injectors for sale. Does not come with any seals and may need to be cleaned. Mileage is unknown, but they are coming off a running dsm. Asking $150, PM if interested.Roger

I've been following this thread, but somehow missed the intake pics. Thanks for sharing your work as I will be wrenching on my car again soon and need some inspiration.

Does that 1g intake pipe fit right over the 2g mas? How's the fitment in the bay? Great job on everything btw.

Thanks for replying. That's what I feared. I really didn't want to pull the front case off and thought there might be a way to just remove the stubby shaft. I guess there is not enough room in the block to unbolt the gear housing eh? Looks like another weekend of redoing stuff I didn't do...

By the pump case do you mean the case that encloses the gears where the pickup tube bolts to? So no need to remove the entire front case, correct? Excuse my noobness I feel like I'm starting all over relearning this motor again.

Has anyone replaced the non-grooved stubby shaft with an oem grooved one with the motor intact and installed in the engine bay? It's been a long while since I rebuilt the motor and have only started it up a few times with no issue. Started to get interested in my DSM again and came across this...

Can anyone recommend an alternator shop in SD to rebuild my alt.?

Are you sure it's not tranny fluid leaking out of the axle seal? I had a leak down the middle of the xfer case and when I traced the leak it was coming from the driver's side axle seal.

What junkyards are these? The ecology down south doesn't usually have turbo dsms.

Is the fuel pump rewired? If not then try rewiring it with 10g wiring so the voltage is consistent from battery to pump.

Are you sure you have all of the o-rings installed? There is a lock washer that goes under the nut on top of the PS pump, but I don't know if that would actually cause the leak.

What is a good junkyard to go to? I hit up ecology in otay, but never find anything useful. It's either body/ interior or not turbo things I can't use.

My first and only rebuild took me about 1 full day assemble with most of the parts and tools available. What takes the most time is measuring all the clearances twice, but once that's done you have a better idea of how the engine is supposed to be put together. Do take your time though and go...

I have up for sale a brand new Turbonetics T3/T4 60-1 .63 5 bolt discharge, stage3 turbine wheel and turbonetics T3 manifold for sale. I no longer have any use for this big of a turbo so I need it gone. It was purchased a few years ago brand new, but I kept having to repair the damn car so I...

I could use a j-pipe to use with a 14b to an FMIC.

Yes they should be compatible from Lasers, talons, and eclipse turbo models. Good luck.

I'll echo the same"it looks like a stock 1g core" only I have come across a couple of different stock cores with different lower pipe angles. My stock 90 core had a wider angle on the lower pipe to clear the stock coolant reservoir. Another core I picked up from a 91 had the lower pipe...

It is easiest to unbolt the 2 bolts holding the intermediate shaft to the block and repairing the axle off the car.

Upgrading the injectors to 550cc would require some way to tune it some. If it were me I would just put a known working 1g MAF and see if that helps. If the MAF really is the only issue and replacing it gets the car working correctly then you can start upgrading performance parts. Start with...

I noticed in your pics you have a 2g MAF on a bone stock car. If that is the case then that is the reason you are running lean as the 2g MAF is bigger than the 1g MAF.

The MPI relay is right under the radio bolted on the passenger side. Sorry I do not have any pics, but remove the passenger side panel where the center console leads to and you should see a little gold box held on by 2 bolts. Hope this helps.

Nice find! I was just talking to another former dsmer last night who was getting rid of his stock parts bin and we got to talking about what would happen when stock parts are not available for these cars anymore. After reading this post I wonder what other factory parts are interchangeable...

You can, but you would need to wire it up correctly. Look at the vfaq page for the how-to write up. If you do this then you would be running leaner and will need to adjust your a/f to make up the difference. I would upgrade to bigger injectors first or at the same time as when you install the...

You've got pm!

Do you have the fuel pump sending unit?

Brand new turbonetics 60-1 turbo with hi-fi compressor housing, .63 turbine with stage 5 wheel, and turbonetics t3 cast manifold. $750. PM if interested.

Did the one I sold you not work out?

Easiest to do it out of the car. While it's still mounted though you want to mark the spot where you want the dent to be. Then just remove it and have at it.

You will have to dent the waterpipe a tad bit with a hammer. Just be careful not to abuse the waterpipe and make a hole. Good luck

^Very clean! I love seeing clean 1ga's like this one that's well kept. Is it mostly stock?Nevermind just took a look at your profile.

If it is not necessary to rebuild the block then why touch it? Unless you want to do a full rebuild for high HP there's no point to do all that extra work. Looks like you're on the right track to getting that ride back on the road. Good luck with everything.

Just replace the oil drain tube with a brand new factory one. Sometimes they have small pinhole cracks that cause leaks. The turbo timer thing has nothing to do withe the leak. Good luck, I hate any kind of leakage.

you got pm

If you can turn a wrench you can remove an intake manifold even if it takes a whole day. I used to be intimidated to do any work on my car and now I have pretty much rebuilt the engine myself. If you go with a SMIM you will still be doing some work to remove the old manifold and install the...

^^I was just going to say this after viewing your profile pics. If it is just the look of the manifold you don't like then why not make it aesthetically pleasing to you? I mean you have options to match it to your VC so why not go that route?

Ask if you can run a compression check and go from there. I would start pointing out some of the issues with the car and offer what you reasonably want to pay for the car. Just don't overpay.

Look for any obvious leaks around the engine area and the bottom of the car. Ask the owner if you can take it for a test drive then listen for any unusual noise, feel if the car pulls strong, and if the turbo boosts without whining. The car does look clean other than paint and for 1200 bucks...

Thanks for the reply. Started working on other things on the car so I'll try smacking it tomorrow. Would there be any reason for the shaft to get stuck in there?

I've tried searching, but nothing really helped. I am trying to replace the driver's side axle seal, but the intermediate shaft is really hard to remove. I have read it should be easy and just slides out. The axle is out of the hub, carrier bearing bracket unbolted, and down pipe is out of...

I see the front Konis are still around for the 1g, but what would you match them with on the rears? There is a thread somewhere here that someone is using the 2g rears without issue. I was also considering going with konis, but not sure what to do about the rears.

This is about the best advice anyone can give! I was one of those that got ahead of myself trying to build a 10sec car when I should've tried to upgrade in stages. Fast forward 10 years later I still have the car and still love it, but it is now a daily driver with mild bolt-on power. I would...

Yes that is what I am referring to. Sometimes it will look good, but still be worn enough that it will cause problems. Mine also looked ok, but I was having the same problems. I ended up replacing the bushings, lever, and nut and washer. Worked out well. Now that I think about it since I...

The end of the lever where the pedal inserts into rounds out. I don't know of anyone successfully welding it, but replacing a few of the parts should do the trick. Look into Sheptrans. I think they have a rebuild kit or sell the parts you need to have it right again.

So did it actually start or it's just ready to start? I remember my build (stock) started in 2004 and I actually started the car in 2010 after replacing a rusted fuel cell, dead ecu, etc. Seems like all went to hell after I started my build, but to hear it start was boner popping! Good luck...

Very true. That is the reason why I would go with a brand new set as it would likely be safer than my quality spec check:notgood:. I did it mainly because at the time I was in a hurry to assemble the motor back together. Now I have a little more patience to wait for parts especially one this...

I checked the FSM to see what the specs are for the gears. Mine were in spec and my front case looked good so I went ahead and re-used the set in my rebuild. The car did start with good oil pressure, but I haven't driven it much to see if it will hold up. I think if I were to re-do my rebuild...

It's leaking because the rubber o-ring under that nut is probably dried out and cracked. You need to remove the nut, washer, line, old o-rings, and then replace with new o-rings. Replace everything in reverse order of removal.

Roger? My name is Roger. 2 Rogers don't make it right. Especially when I also have a 1990 Talon Tsi AWD.