I'm thinking maybe it was just the latest run of castings they did. I've seen one of my buddie's BEP housings that he was going to put on his Evo. It was used when he got it a year ago, and it looked very high quality. None of the type of stuff pictured a while back.

Dav'es motor coming back together this weekend......................

You didn't put HX52 on the list, and that gets my vote. I also have one sitting on the floor right now waiting for me to pull the trigger :D

Wow! Can you get some pics of the wheels with the housings off and get some measurements? I wonder how closely they copied everything. Also, if they are cheap enough, might be worth getting them just for the correct sized exhaust housing if it's what you need.

I'm shooting for 10's in a RWD car on stiff arse suspension on 275 nitto DR's. Also, still something with decent enough spool to turn the boost down and at least have fun down a twisty road. Not the fastest guy mind you, but still have fun. I spank purpose built GTR's with my HX40 now down...

Hmm, 7lb/min is a pretty big difference though. Are there different maps out there from what you've seen for the HX52's? Also, another interesting tidbit, a buddy over here just put a HX55 on his BMW. The exhaust side was huge as expected (22cm housing on a 3.6L), but the compressor is the...

Interesting info. I just measured my HX52 which is NOT a xxx996 part number, and the compressor wheel is 64.5mm inducer, and 98mm exducer. Another guy here ordered one (both from goldfarb) and his is the same size. That's a little smaller than the first one we got from goldfarb which IS the...

12.3 @ 117mph on a 8 blade HX35/40 hybrid (not sure on the exhaust side cm2). 2wd R32 Skyline with a RB25 swap on crappy nitto drag radials.11.8 @ 124mph with a trunk full of crap and a passenger. 6 blade HX40 with a 19cm ex housing on Mickey T drag radials. Best mph same night of 127...

Hey guys!! I've been lurking on this thread since Part II and wanting to post for a long time. Their are a bunch of us here on Okinawa running Holsets on RB's (Skyline motors), and one guy who's also on this board is putting a HX52 on his Evo I (radix).Anyways, first question I've got is...

I'm not sure what exactly a "stage 3 turbo kit" is, but an Apexi SAFC Neo is a piggy back computer and especially when your talking about bigger injectors and only 4 of them, it's adjustability is pretty limited. Megasquirt is a stand alone ecu. It sounds like you need to do a little more...

What did you use for a check valve? All the check valves I've found are the flapper type and leak when they don't have a little positive pressure on them holding them shut, or the ball in spring type that leak. Either way, I had mine hooked up to my washer bottle also. After a night of...

That's an intercooler pipe?I don't think that by itself would cause that hard of a miss though. Now if you've been driving like that for a while and it's been running rich since the MAF is metering all that air (and adding fuel for it) but that air is escaping, that would foul your plugs...

They are only like $200 for a UEGO. It's really an indispensable tool is you are not taking your car somewhere else to get tuned. Just part of the price to play the game.

Does it make the noise only when the a/c is on and the compressor is engaged, or all the time?

That's why I was saying we need to know if the compressor is kicking on or not. Should be pretty easy to trouble shoot if it's not even turning on.

Sounds like a boost leak to me. I think it took more time to log on and post then it would take to make a boost leak checker though ROFL

Does it change temp at all while your driving down the road at highway speeds? Is the compressor even cycling on and of? Pop the hood and have somebody turn the a/c on and off and see if you can hear it clicking on and off. Isolate the problem.

Yeah, that sounds like a hard miss. I don't think it's a boost leak now. You said you have spark to every cylinder, and pulling the spark plug wires changed the idle with every plug wire? If your idle doesn't stay the same when you disconnectied one plug wire, that would indicate its an...

HY35 if you only want 400rwhp. HX35 can make a lot more then that.

Looks upside down to me, but I've never seen that kit before.

Do a compression check. Is there any coolant mixed in with the oil or vice versa?

My nissan coil packs like to go bad ALL the time. Try swapping with somebody that has good ones and see if that helps. Also, running too rich could cause it to miss. Maybe find out why it's running so rich.

Turbo timers are deemed far to important IMHO. Unless you are doing gymkahna or road course racing or something, you don't need one. If you drag race, by time your car gets turned around and you drive the 1/4 slowly back to the pits, it's already cooled down enough. Daily driving doesn't...

Sounds like the same thing that happens when a MAF goes bad on Nissans. You guys are MAF, not MAP, right? Check the MAF connection, and then maybe swap out a known good one from another car and see if it fixes it.

I'd look real hard in that area for some kind of leak. I'm telling ya, make yourself a boost leak tester. 10 minutes, and even if that's not the problem, I'll bet you find some other small leaks, and it's great peace of mind knowing you have no leaks. I bet you'll find your problem like that...

Well maybe you accidentally sliced a coupler? Don't just do a visual check of the clamps. Make a boost leak tester (takes 10 minutes) and check it that way. There are very few things you could have screwed up on you engine changing your suspension unless it's some strange DSM thing I don't...

You probably popped off an intercooler pipe.

Because water wetter an/or higher percentages of water vs. antifreeze cool a bit betterFaucet water leaves build up from impurities such as minerals and stuff in the water. Purified water is better, but faucet water will not eat through aluminum. Antifreeze is a corrosion inhibitor, and...

Water wetter is also a "surfactant". It reduces the surface tension of the water which allows it to find its way into micro-cracks and casting roughness and what not to increase the surface area the coolant has contact with which allows better cooling.I can partially agree with DSM1G90...

You'll need a fuel pressure gage of some sort. It's a rising rate FPR, right? You'll need to know what DSM's run stock for fuel pressure, start the car, pull the vacuum line off the FPR, and set it to stock (or what ever you tune for, but I doubt your going that route just now). Then...

So you just have a gage that reads lean/stoichiometric/rich hooked up to your factory gage, right? Those are worthless. That's not a wide band, and you can not use that gage with a wide band sensor. I think that's what your asking, but it's kind of tough to decipher.

Mines on the hotside. Might not be ideal for performance (doubt it actually makes much of a difference though) but it's not going to hurt anything.

And I'm saying if you don't advance timing and/or lean it out tuning for the meth/water, it can run out all it wants and it won't hurt anything. I know a couple people who have a regular tune and put meth/water on top of it just to have added protection against knock/high ex temps. It would be...

Yeah, no ring on mine either. Not sure about the groove though. I've never seen a groove on any holset there. I broke a motor mount recently and was using my holset for a motor mount for a while with out knowking it :ohdamn: and now it leaks a bit from behind the cover. I don't think it...

Agree. Also, you could only screw something up if you are re-tuned after meth and you run out/pump dies. Same thing would apply IF these sprayers made enough of a difference to warrant tuning for them and they system ran out/broke. If you run water/meth as a safety blanket and it quit, no big...

Chicago? I'd stick with 50/50 or 40/60 year round. Pour the water wetter in first so it doesn't throw off you proportions. I've seen 2 motors get popped due to running little or no antifreeze during the summer and just forgetting to change it. If you are having serious cooling problems, I...

That was just a general statement so everybody giving advise knows where we are coming from. Very easy to say what your saying, and if we get everything lined up to #1 TDC before hand, even if we did have to move things around, we would know exactly how to put it back.

Hey Dave!Important to note for the people that didn't click the link, we are going to have to spin the motor to get number 3 piston/rod assembley out of the motor and get it bolted back up. That may affect the advise given. It's not just a matter of pulling the head and putting it right...

I run 80% water, 20% coolant, and a bottle of water wetter. The anti-freeze is just there as a corosion inhibitor and to lower the boiling point of the coolant for me. I'm in the south Pacific though. Obviously you should be more cautious in colder climates.

Completly agree. I don't know how much Eclipses weigh, but most of the early Evo's here on the island that have most of the bolt ons and a tune wouldn't have too aweful much trouble with a stock R34, GTR or not.R34's are kind of like 'vettes or Vipers in the fact that they are pretty...

R32 GTSt with a RB25. 275/40R17 nitto drag radials and using a Gtec. We don't have a dyno or track on the island.HX35/40 hybrid (8 blade compressor) @ 1.6 bar12.3 @ 117mphHX40 (6 blade with 19cm housing) @ 1.7bar11.8 @ 124mphThere is a lot left in the current set up. That...

What's a normal knock count for you guys? I regularly get knock at idle and normal driving into the 20's, but I'm using a power FC on a RB25.

How can you say that when he still hasn't said which turbo. H1 is just a series like I said. H1C is around the size of a T04e, while a H1E is much closer to a T04r.

It's my screen name on another forum as a joke that kinda stuck. I like the car a lot, but I'm still a Mustang guy (hides from flying tomatoes)

Which H1 are you getting? That's a series of Holset turbo, like the HX series. H1C? H1E?

I had that aluminized crap rust out on my jeep. Stainless FTW!!

Fuel PumpS? Try turning the key to run and seeing if you here it priming then stopping--actually, this will only work if you guys have return style fuel systems--do you?

I'm in the same boat waiting to post in that thread. I've got a HX35/40 on my Skyline, and I'm looking to see what's better for me. From what I've been reading, the 19cm divided housing might be about perfect shooting for around 600rwhp, which I am. Do you do just straight drag with a little...